wormy

Paid! Sent you £20, should hopefully cover the postage to Norway and the extra hassle.. :wave:

I'm in, but would need to be sent to Norway.. At extra cost ofcourse.. ;)

Cheers, the bite remains more or less the same - relatively close to the floor.. I guess I could try to replace the hydraulics first, but the master cylinder looks a bit hard to replace if I don't remove it.. The car's LHD.. :(

Anyone? Doesn't seem like there's any leaks onto the clutch disc. But the clutch doesn't free itself from the flywheel when trying to change gear, and it doesn't stick completly to the flywheel when driving either.. Seems that somewhere, something's sticking.. Plan is to remove the gearbox, change both the slave/master cylinder AND the coily-hose thingie. And order a new clutch disc + bolts incase the clutch has worn while slipping.. Any comments or anything? :(

At first glance it looks fully repairable, rear quarter panel and a door.. Dunno how much it'd cost in the UK, but I'd think it should be covered by the insurance..? Though, how's the b-pillar..?

For a while I've been having some random minor crunching when gearing, but yesterday I started to have problems engaging gears (the lever had to be really forced into gear). Sometimes it's "fine", other times it's hard to get into gears and crunches. (The circlip is in place before anyone asks..) But today while cruising in 5th at approx 3000rpm, and flooring it, the clutch slips - while still most of the time being hard to get into gear. The slipping slowly got progressively worse as I drove. I checked earlier today before I started to drive, and I hadn't lost any brake fluid - have yet to check now after I've parked it though. The clutch is a LuK uprated g60 clutch (vr6?), that was changed when I built new engine 10-15k kilometers ago.. The engine is very torquey and powerful, but doubt I've managed to kill a clutch already... As far as I know, the slave and master are both the original ones, and the car has done 267000km's. Might be time to change them, but wondered if anyone got any ideas before I decide to take off the gearbox or do something else "drastic"? :( Just seems odd to me that it both is hard to engage gears / crunches AND slips a bit. The flywheel seal MIGHT be leaking even though it was new 10-15000km's ago, but hope not.. Ideas? :help: Sorry that I haven't checked more yet, but there's snow outside and it's cold and dark.. :(

Mine feels stable at 230km/h+... On a safe road ofcourse.. :salute: Infact, alot more stable at 200km/h then most other cars I've driven at 100km/h, including mom's 320i 2000 bimmer with full service history..

To make a long story short, it'll flow alot more air = less "restriction" (boost).. And flow > boost.. :grin: 9psi seems a tad low thought..

Are you saying you don't want the kits now? No sorry, just saying that I posted a reply here instead of sending you a PM. Don't see the point in everyone seeing my address, etc.. :) I still want them ;)

Not too far off I think, considering you got a big valve head.. Those "eat" boost... :clap:

i love these threads.. :D Mine might get an emergency sleepover kit consisting of toothbrush, deodorant and similar.. :)

Delete me. Was really tired and "sent a pm" here... T_T

We sell carpets from Newton at work, for old VW's (beetle, bus etc) and old MG's, Triumphs etc.. Good quality :)

VWHeritage does them.. Think we weighed 20x of them to 360gram total or something at work.. :) Part number: AC601SN17BRA A bit down on the page here.. http://www.vwheritage.com/ssp/Wheels/Nu ... 601SN17BRA

On my old engine: 0.8bar from 2000rpm, 1bar (14.5psi) from 2500rpm, increasing closer to the rev limiter. That's with a ported "TEC 2RS" charger (similar to stage5?), 68mm pulley, RSR outlet and some minor engine mods - after 45000km's still giving same numbers. Will be rebuilt in the winter though.. :) On my new engine with a big valve head and loads of mods - I'm getting 0.7 from 3000rpm upto 0.75 on the top end, that's with a 65mm toothed pulley.. :wave:

According to my Bentley it's 6 liters with the oil filter.. :-) But tbh, I'd follow this advice: viewtopic.php?f=1&t=94723&p=1090298&hilit=vr6+oil+litre*#p1090298

Think I got one of the "oldest" in Norway if you sort by milage.. Bought mine at 2180000km = 135000 miles. 2 years later and I've just passed 265000km ~165000miles.. :) New engine now, so can't complain... :luvlove:

My water temp is very stable at 80, up to 100 max when idling/queuing, and immediately drops to 80 when cruising again. Doesn't go over 100, think that's when the fan kicks in at full.. That's with a low temp thermostat I fitted for some reason.. Running an external oil cooler (16row narrow model with thermostat sandwich), so the oil is also very stable at 80, unless I'm cruising at over 3k revs for 30min+, then it's up to 90-100 max. My water temp was just about what you had earlier, but then I emptied the system and flushed it completely with loads of clean water, through the radiator and through the coolant reservoir for ages until only clear water was coming out. Made a world of difference. :)

My G60 has the power curve in the "user manual" that came with the car.. Didn't the VR have that? :-o

3.5mm ID and 1000mm long.. :)

Fixed the driver side window regulator. Working windows now.. :clap: Just gotta do the passenger side sometime.. :censored:

I'd imagine they won't sell the rebuild kits, but can't see why they wouldn't sell the belts.. I've never had any problems with emailing them, but they might have alot to do with the whole Rotiform thing and such..? :confused4:

They should ideally be taller imo, so you could fit a hose clamp around the hose, but the screws do the same job.. :)

I'm running a ~30-40cm pipe down towards the steering/gearbox that's blocked in one end. Using these from VWHeritage/SSP, but anything that'd block it would do. Think the hose is 45mm, but using the 48mm block-thingie. http://www.vwheritage.com/ssp/Engine-Pa ... t=AC119220

Well, charger off and bypassed. Actually feels rather quick still, guess the big valve head and GTi bottom end helps.. :norty: Think I found the noise. Pulley is all loose and wobbly, and there's some aluminium-like shavings all over the place. Think the pulley's being "eaten".. :cuckoo: Turning it by hand is smooth, just sounds a bit weird in the video because the pulley is loose. Gonna have the charger checked as it's getting close to rebuild-time anyway. Video of loose charger pulley: Video of how the car pulls without the charger.. Not full throttle or red-lining there as you can see on the boost-thingie in the MFA. Fuel and timing still not spot on. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VI88Qfbn5J4 1x M8 bolt and nut 1x M10 bolt and nut 1x 1250mm multirib belt 1x blocked boost return 50cm of 2.5" exhaust pipe 1x cheap air filter And this is the result..