wormy

Just remembered there's one more picture of the dizzy area.. Anything here? :shrug: Or does the 16v have the dist on the head..?

i too bought a head gasket set so ill check to see if theres one there. not sure what to do about the plastic bit now though... If the plastic bit is loose, then you could probably get it used from someone.. :-)

If the plastic seal doesn't show, that usually means that it isn't available as a separate part (anymore). Yes, I agree that it's alot, but ETKA shows it at "8.02" inc 18% vat, and from my experience the dealer always charges a tad more then that. Dunno if the price in my etka is in euro or gbp, but it usually gives a rough indication.. :shrug:

If the KR engine got the same internal cooler system as a G60, then the picture below shows the seal that's bad. Just the seal would be around £3-4 at the dealers I'd imagine. Not really that big of a job to do, unless everything's stuck obviously. If you're gonna replace the oil cooler too, it'd be a waste to replace it with a new internal cooler imo - costs too much - if they still make them. Maybe a decent used one if yours is bad..? Otherwise I'd invest in an external kit if it was up to me.. :)

Dunno if this is the seal you're after..? Can't think of any other seals around there.. A 9A (2.0 16v) should have distributor #1 on the attached image. And distributor #1 uses this seal: "027 905 261" :dorky: Seems to cost a bit from the stealers though, my guess would be somewhere around £10.. :cuckoo:

Dunno about the ones you link to, but these are supposedly very good quality - but a tad expensive. http://www.tastynuts.com/Products/stain ... allel_Head (They also do neutral/anodized titanium, but that costs a bit more) Gonna get myself a set of anodized aluminium nuts for the rocker cover soon - just gotta figure out if these got the right pitch first.. :)

Broke into it. The aftermarked alarm decided to lock my only keys in the car when I was in a rush to get to a vw/audi event(is that the word?).. :epicfail: Steel wire with a rope attached to it with a self-locking knot, then pull the doorpin. Was surprisingly easy actually.. Only problem was that the rod underneath the doorpin inside the door snapped clear off (will see if I can get a picture). Seems someone up above wanted me to be late.. :bad-words: Then onto the other door.. Changed tactics this time. The keys were laying in the passenger seat. Managed to fish them up with the steel wire and pull them up and out.. Success.. :clap: ps: No windows/sunroofs/anything were open and no doorgaps/paint was damaged.. Kinda scary how easy it actually was, makes me worry when I park the car out somewhere.. The alarm usually works perfectly fine, but seems something bugged with the auto-locking of the doors after 1min if no doors are opened when the car is unlocked.. :scratch:

Sorry for the short reply.. Yes, you can use MK4 rear calipers on a G60. All you need is the Goodridge Mk2->Mk4 conversion hose kit, since Mk4 calipers needs different type of hose. Using this combo myself :-) Dunno if it's possible to upgrade from the 226 to the Rallye/G60 Syncro 239mm rear discs..? Would imagine it'd be a fairly easy swap, but haven't studied the parts... :shrug:

Changed the oxygen sensor to a geniune Bosch one for Corrado G60 (not an universal one, £50 from the bay). Re-tightened the rear wheel bearings. (Is that the correct word for the job..? :shrug: ) Replaced the plastic thingies on the seat runners - no more wobbling around! Replaced the other handbrake cable. Dealer only had one in stock when I worked underneath the car last time..

Think I've seen someone use the Mk1/MK2 Golf bumper indicators. Think those would look a bit better then just the standard Corrado indicators in the bumper.. Picture of the ones I mean: Anyone got a picture of these on a Corrado?

075 121 113D. That's the original one. Seems it's available from VW, but seems costs a bit. R32 thermostat is "022 121 113", so not the same part number. Might still fit, though.. :-\

Adjusted the timing after fitting a "new" 130000km old distributor. No timing light, but I knew it was almost correct after inserting it. So advanced a bit, went for a test, and repeated. Runs really nice now for a change! :clap: Will hook up a timing light sometime soon and check it out. Maybe I can advance it even more, but don't dare before I know how "bad" it is atm.

Should still be available from VW. Atleast according to my relativly updated ETKA. Or am I looking at the wrong thing here? Doesn't seem to cost too much either, so maybe give VW a call if you want to keep it "original"? :camp: My ETKA lists it at 12.30+vat, and from my earlier experience with buying stuff is that it'll be somewhere around £15-20, but you never know. Some parts costs way more.. :censored:

Dunno how a catchtank would cope there as there's a constant flow of air comming from the charger. (I'm no expert when it comes to catchtanks though, might be that they can cope!) I'm just going to put a hose from the TB and down to the ground I think - away from the exhaust manifold. As for the opening, 44.1mm outer diameter, 46mm on the "lip" at the bottom.. :-) Shouldn't be any problems with doing this as there's either a constant flow of air (part throttle), or the butterfly is closed (wot). Just be sure to block the hole/hose or put a filter on there if you remove the charger! If you want you can just keep a filter on there all the time too. :tongue:

Found this.. http://www.vwcaddy.com/showpost.php?p=42385&postcount=7 423D is superseded by 423G.. 424D is superseded by 424F, which is replaced by 424H... But the 423/424 without a letter ending isn't superseded by anything according to etka.. Now I'm a bit unsure.. :(

Just checked out this on ETKA.. If you look on the info above the part numbers you'll see a few differences. On my version of ETKA the two first pages are for the mk4 sedans (look on the "model" part). Then on the description you'll notice the VIN numbers, before/after a certain VIN they use a different revision. The two last pages show the same thing, but for the estate version of the Golf. If you also take a look at the "remark", the sedan mentions C38HR-A LUCAS, the estate mentions "C41HR-A LUCAS". Dunno if that means there's a small difference between the sedan and the estate...? Usually you are "safer" off buying the newest part (for the newest VIN). That's my experience anyway. Might be a small improvement that's been made to the caliper for instance. They should fit no matter which revision you choose, but are slightly different still. I think I read somewhere that they changed the handbrake system on the calipers somewhere in 2002-3 or so.. Dunno if this makes sense or helps at all? And someone please comment if I'm wrong somewhere.. If you try to doubleclick the newest mk4 sedan calipers you'll see that they're "updated" yet again (attachment).. Here you can also see the the "fwd sedan" part under model and the vin numbers under "description".. :dorky: etka.JPG[/attachment:2bx6dax4]

I run what the sticker in the doorpost tells me.. 2.8bar in the front, 2.5 in the back. (Or roughly 40/36psi.) That's on 215/40/16's. Been using this for over a year now - even on track days - and been working well for me.. I follow ze instructions! :hitler: Can't really tell anything about tyre wear, etc, as I've been running the last months with totally wrong camber = no front tyres left.. :shrug:

When I had lost my keys I had to drill a hole in the steering lock and poke out the lock cylinder. If done properly there's no permantent damage to the steering lock, and everything can be reinstalled without problems. There was a 6 digit code on the lock cylinder that was used to make new keys. The code the keycutters need is "AH" and then the first 4 digits. (Might've been the 4 last digits, but pretty sure it was the 4 first.. Been a while since, sorry.) There's a small guide for drilling out the cylinder in the Bentley manual (Page 94.9. Electrical Systems - Lights) This is on a G60 though, dunno if it's more complicated on the newer cars with imobilizers and those sorts of thingies..? Forgot to ask - can you get into the car? If not, the above method won't help.. :(

Not alot that's happened lately.. Except that this winter we've had more snow then the last 30 or so winters.. These pictures are about a month old, and we've had quite a bit more snow after these were taken.. I've taken off the front splitter for obvious reasons.. :brickwall: Recieved my ported and flow matched intake from http://www.scientificrabbit.com, flows 20% more then stock and more importantly, flows equal on all runners. Stock... During the porting.. Finished... Also snatched a picture of the header from G-Werks while at work.. :luvlove: Just like "James." on here, it seems someone at the Karmann factory had fun with a marker pen during assembly of my car. Under the handbrake trim there's some writing. Think it says "Grün Perl", which is the color of the car.. LC6V.. Funny little detail imo :)

Been a while since I've been doing this, but from my memory you have to push them all the way back, then you'll see a bolt/nut underneath the front of the seat. Undo that one, and then you can push the seat further back, and it's out.. MIght be that some plastic pieces have to be removed on the seat runner on the back of the seat, can't really remember.. :(

Found a PDF with loads of info.. I'll upload it: http://rapidshare.com/files/343993655/B ... atoren.pdf

From what I can figure out.. :shrug: 0 001 108 202 ALFA ROMEO 145 (1.9); 146 (1.9); 147 (1.9); 156 Berlina (1.9); 156 Sport Wagon (1.9); 12/1,4 FIAT Brava (1.9); Bravo (1.9); Doblo (1.9); Doblo Cargo (1.9); Idea (1.9); Marea (1.9); Marengo (1.9); Multipla (1.9); Palio Weekend (1.9); Punto (1.9); Punto Van (1.9); Stilo (1.9); Stilo Multi Wagon (1.9); Strada (1.9); LANCIA Lybra Berlina (1.9); Lybra Station Wagon (1.9); Musa (1.9)

W6dp0 is the stock plug. W6dp works just as well from my experience.. (Basically same plug, but 0.7mm gap instead of 0.6mm I think.. Anyone who can confirm?) I buy them here: http://www.gsparkplug.com/search/?search=w6dp&submit= Cheap prices (compared to £40/each in Norway!!!) and friendly service. Recommended from me :-)

These pictures with the old anti roll bar still installed.. :( Old tie-rod.. Not supposed to be bent like this.. :cuckoo: Few old parts New top mounts Few new parts.. Not alot of clearance.. Having access to a lifter helps..! :grin: "New" rims for the winter. 15x7 et28 Rear dampers with adjustable springseat.. Underneath.. The pictures of the control arms makes it look like the whole car is rotting - which it isn't.. :salute: From the front

Been doing some work the last few days.. I said in my first post that I thought the springs were sagging.. Now I don't think they are anymore.. Might be "slightly" worn front strut top mounts, and the yellow koni's that's adjusted a bit low on the rear.. :wink: Will try to get some pictures up when she's out on the road again.. Here's some of the work done: - Polybushes all-round - Black Diamond brake discs/pads. Combined version (Looks damn sexy :grin:) - Eibach anti roll bar for the front/rear has been ordered - Mk4 rear calipers - Stainless steel brake lines - New handbrake cables - New wheel bearings all-round - New inner/outer tie-rods - New Ball-joints - New front top strut mounts - FK bumpstops on the rear so I can use the Borbets A's in the summer without rubbing too much. (The old ones were rather worn/old) - Fitted a new cat-replacement pipe (G-werks). Preparing for the new engine that's (hopefully) going in in the summer. - Allignment getting done as soon as the car's on the road. Pretty much changed everything down there, 'xept for the shocks/springs, which seems to be working well. For the engine I've bought a toothed belt pulley set. The old G-werks one. Yes, I know the allignment of the pulleys are very important, I've been using the search-button.. :wink: