Dox

I bled around 3L through mine, 3 times at each corner with the compensation valve forced open (without it the pressure to the rears is reduced). Even then the pedal wasn't great for the first 100 miles or so - it was low but never went to the floor.

They are a swine to bleed especially if they've been completely drained to replace the pump. What method have you used to bleed the system? pressure bleeder or two man method? Did you force open the rear compensation valve on the rear axle? Did you bleed off the nipples on the master cylinder and the abs pump?

Hydraulic "tappet jacking", the pressure is so high the tappets can't cope and hold too much oil to the point the valves don't close fully, hence Rev the engine to 4000 rpm when cold before allowing it to stall, attempt to restart and the engine will turn over faster than normal as there's little compression until the tappets have purged some of the oil.

When the engine is running and you remove the filler cap can you see oil on the camshaft or does it appear quite dry? Mine's rather dry............

Some early g60s didn't have abs, you need the holes and retaining pin for the sensor Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

The reluctor rings (baskets) just push onto the rear of the bearing housing on the one piece disks. The stubs have holes in for the sensor? I'll post a pic in a while of VR6 stubs. I think both disk shields and inner seal covers are now obsolete?

APR40 get you 40% off this weekend

What condition are the CTS plug connections in? Are they making a good contact with the sensor? If you suspect an earth issue (broken wire?) for the CTS then you could make a new / extra one?

The bearings are usually only sold in sets, main bearing that the crank sits inside the block and big ends that the con rods connect to the crank are both in 2 halves, so a 6 cylinder car has 12 big end bearing shells, if the engine block has 7 bearing saddles then its 14 main bearing shells

They should be lead coloured

If enough white metal is ground away from the shells the outer steel part of the shell can spin around and make a horrible noise (I was at Curborough when Pete Rosenthals MK1 Golf spun its bearings on the main straight - Pete was VW motorings staff writer at the time, the noise was horrific but he never heard a thing). The bearing shells are steel outer, coated with copper, then coated with white metal then machined round, the sign of a worn bearing is the copper coloured coating showing when removed - the white metal is gone.

I remember your rebuild well, the best of everything so its a bitter pill when things like this happen. You'll need to strip and clean the head to remove the debris from inside the oil galleries / passageways too.

I can't remember a car in worse condition selling on here in recent years? I've seen much better cars broken for spares. I'm not meaning to be nasty, just realistic

You can't reuse head gaskets as they compress to make a seal. MLS (multi layer steel) are the ones that raise compression a tad. The head shouldn't need a skim unless its been overheated? Place a straight edge rule across the head face diagonally in both directions to see if the head is true - you'll need 3 spacers (identical M6 or M8 nuts?) to clear the valves as they're proud of the surface. Valves are made of 2 pieces of metal, the head is of a hard material, the stem is much softer, they're friction welded together by spinning them under pressure, its usually the head that comes off complete at the welded point (after serious overheating) holing the softer piston, if you drove the car with a holed piston the exhaust would have oil dripping out of it and all over the rear of the car. I think you need to find out what the debris is, alloy from a casting or white metal (very soft - made with lead and tin mixture)) from the big ends or mains. If its bearing material then you need to look at oil supply, the crank actually floats on oil and shouldn't touch the bearings at all, if oil supply is an issue the white metal is destroyed very quickly if the crank journals touch the surface of the bearings. there's thrust washers too (also white metal), these control sideways movement of the crank - hence why I said push / pull on the crank pulley to check for play.

If you don't lower the price you'll still have it in 10 years anyway. The bodywork is poor, every panel needs work and paint - £3K for a good job that will last a while if looked after. The running gear will need work after being stood all this time, the dash has holes from the phone kit and needs replacing, the only thing good about the car is the seats, worth £500-600 or so. Roger Chatfield recently sold his mystic storm for around £5K, 3 forum enthusiast members and online history for years. Before you dismiss my ramblings as rubbish, I've bought 3 cars off this forum, a VR6 with leather, a green storm and a G60 rolling shell, all 3 combined cost less than the £3K you're asking. Prices are creeping up for the best examples out there, yours has been for sale for 2 months, at £3K (or £4K buy it now) I can't see it selling anytime soon. GLWS :)

Grab the crank pulley and push / pull, there should be hardly any movement. You say the debris is non ferrous?? The block is cast iron, so bottom end wise its just pistons, oil pump and bearing shells that are a possibility? The head is alloy so just about anything is a possibility.

Bank interest rates for savers is very poor, you may as well invest in classic metal? Not far from you http://www.classic-auctions.com/Auctions/20-04-2016-ImperialWarMuseumDuxford-1413.aspx

That's the car I went to see TBH, lots of recent paint, I think you'd double the hammer price to make a very nice car, but then you're in 20V territory.

The Polo G40 was a shock to me, we were just leaving as it lined up to go as I had other business on the way home, the car looked like any other grey polo, plastic trim faded / discoloured, paint was unpolished for years but in very good condition - £10,500 is madness.......

I went to the above auction last week and saw the Corrado G60 go through, its quite rare to see one at auction. 3 or 4 different bidders before the hammer fell. The car was quite clean, recent paint down its flanks by the look of it, a little rust around the screen, broken drivers door handle and a little rust inside the drivers door form having the seat belt shut in it maybe? Started and ran well, sounded well too, no smoke etc. http://www.angliacarauctions.co.uk/en/classic-auctions/latest-classic-car-catalogue/saturday-9th-april/

Got my copy today :)

Can you pick the particles up with a magnet?

The head off a valve is too large to go down an exhaust port, inlet vValve is larger still

If it still has a cat fitted not much will get past it, could it be the cat itself broken up?