Dox

Have you got a compression tester?

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/2-REAR-SPORTS-BUMP-STOPS-NEW-FOR-1-8-2-0-VR6-VW-MK3-GOLF-VENTO-CORRADO-TOLEDO-/361524487428?hash=item542c89e504:m:m5RsM8KR6UccDZPd7MgX7Xg

8V, 16V, G60, VR6, R32 engine, 1.8T......... What was the colour of the sender you changed?

Hoffmeister has monte 2s on his blackberry Bottom of the page http://the-corrado.net/showthread.php?78385-Ron-s-Blackberry-VR6-A11-VRX-Getting-her-back-on-the-road/page35

I did home to Rome banger rally a few years ago in a merc E class as member of a 4 man team, we drove home I under 24 hours just stopping for food and ferry etc. 1348 miles to my home address, we left Rome at mid day and was in my own bed 24 hours later (7 long days driving in total).

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I've just had my VR6 fail on emissions and was offered this advice by an online friend - it maybe of use to others? Does it need a cat test EMISSIONS HELP CO high, co2 low hc high, o2 high - rich mixture with ignition misfire CO high, co2 low hc high, o2 low -faulty thermostat or coolant sensor CO low, co2 low hc low, o2 high - exhaust leak after cat CO low, co2 high, hc low, o2 high - injector misfire, cat ok CO high, co2 low, hc medium to low, o2 high - rich mixture CO high, co2 high, hc high, o2 high - injector misfire, cat not working, combination of rich mixture and vacuum leak CO low, co2 high, hc low, 02 low, good afr and cat operation- system normal . lambda typical range 0.97 to 1.03 [ ideal lambda 1 ] The emissions limits to be met are specified for both the fast and normal idle tests. At fast idle, CO must be at or less than 0.2%, HC at or less than 200 parts per million (ppm), and the lambda value(1) must be between 0.97 and 1.03. At normal idle, CO must be at or less than 0.3%.

The best place to buy one from is here, you can look through a build thread or the sellers posts to see what has going wrong in the past. Try a wanted ad in the classified. The grey car looks OK - the arches appear to be rolled so make sure you have a good look for corrosion. If you're worried about MOT repair costs ask the seller if its ok for you to arrange an MOT prior to you buying it so you have an idea what needs doing. There's not too many about, but that doesn't mean you have to buy a bad one in a panic At 20 plus years old these cars need regular attention and ongoing maintenance, if you can do some of the work yourself they can be run on a reasonable budget, if not costs spiral.

If you hold grit / dirt / contamination in the palm of your hand then add a little oil and mix it together you end up with grinding paste so its only a short term fix. I wouldn't want to be driving enthusiastically into a bend and the throttle jam open on a car (or a bike).

You could depressurise the coolant by removing the cap when hot (put the cap on a plastic bag on the drivers seat while the engine cools so you don't forget to refit it) being careful not to scald yourself! Refit the cap before restarting when cold and it should start up on 4 cylinders if the gasket is breached (pressure hasn't pushed coolant into the cylinder). Don't scald yourself if you try this method

Compression test will show up a poorly seated valve or piston rings / bore wear, its unlikely to pick up a slightly weeping HGF at this stage. When you switch off after a drive the coolant stays pressurised until cooled, without compression in the cylinder a small amount of coolant seeps into the cylinder and extinguishes the spark preventing combustion, the leak is tiny and seals itself once the engine is running / hot. Piston crowns get steam cleaned if this is the case (you can see this with a torch with the plugs removed), 3 black crowns and a dull metal one means it needs a block test or a sniff test to confirm. You need to pinpoint which cylinder is causing the problem and work from there - pulling off the plug leads in turn is the best way to find this, if you pull one and the idle is unaffected that's the cylinder with the issue (a good cylinder will become even more lumpy at idle because the engine is now running on 2 cylinders

You shouldn't need to oil cables, when they begin to snag its because the wires are beginning to break inside and they're spiking to the out of the cable making them slow to return. Check your main battery earth cable is clean and secure, a broken earth will make heavy starter motor current try and find its way via anything that connects the engine to the shell to the battery (wiring to the ECU or clutch and throttle cables etc)

And HGF over pressurising the matrix could well of finished it off. I'd randomly pull off the plug leads to find which one made no or little difference to idle when its miss-firing then concentrate on that cylinder

My MK2 8 valve did that when the head gasket went, if you remove the plugs and use a torch to pear into the cylinders if you have one piston steam cleaned you need a block test to confirm it. Mine was number one cylinder

288mm front is a maybe, 312mm front is a no. If you have a spare use that on the front and an axle stand?

Copy lenses are being produced and should be available soon via a forum member (Karmannski), £100 per pair I believe? http://the-corrado.net/showthread.php?94135-New-Fog-lens-Re-pro-soon-available

You'll find G60 / VR6 callipers are wider to accommodate pad / disk / pad thickness being wider than 16V, if you have the pads and disks remove the calliper and push the piston all the way home and compare them

Presume it had no mot or non runner?

Too cheap then? Missed it, what was it?

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Do you mean the PAS pipe cooler at the very bottom of the picture?

Not if its been jacked up in the wrong place previously and allowed to rot out? Where did you get the info from?

Just a gearbox, no engine

I have a tdi 6 speed sat in the garage, hence my interest