Dox
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Content Count
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Joined
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Last visited
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28
Everything posted by Dox
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It’s not been exported, still in the same hands that SORNed it, nothing on previous mots for rust, so if it’s tucked up in a well ventilated garage it should be a solid car The above are screenshots of Vehicle Smart app Good luck with y to our search. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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USA got 12V MK4s with factory VSR AFP engine code? The throttle body would need work as it's on the opposite side
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Was the price too good to be true? I'd expect starting (negotiation) price to be around £1500? When you place a wanted ad for rare / expensive items you're very exposed to these type of things. I'd want to see a pic with the sellers name and date written on paper next to the actual part - I don't think that's too much to ask? Why are you so desparate to own one?
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Magnets behind the bumper?
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Mine will go to auction, can’t stand messers and time wasters. I’ve sold 1 car in the last 22 years, a £300 Skoda rapid, mine get broken or WBAC
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Made it out of the garage so I can tidy up some what! I’m determined to run it on the road next year.. 6 years standing and it ran up to temp nicely, 107k survivor car (minimal chineseum shite!). Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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Its such a shoddy set up, my heaterbox fell into two halves when I unbolted it from the bulkhead,does anyone know the cost of it? It must have been "premium" as the car was extortionate when new...
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Heater flaps falling apart will allow hot / cold to be mixed
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You need to chock the rear wheels and use the powertrain to force suspension etc backwards / forwards with some slightly brutal clutch control. Check engine mounts too
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Something else, are the inner CVs shifting / bolts tight?
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If you’ve powdercoatd the subframe it could be crushing reducing the torque as it does so? id want metal to metal contact before torquing, prove the issue then spray wax to prevent corrosion if you want to.
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If it’s not pad slap, then I’d look at wishbone movement, the bush centre slapping on the bolt? you could also swap pads side to side to eliminate that?
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https://www.fueltek.co.uk/what-is-the-diesel-bug-and-how-can-you-avoid-it/
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That’s a nice pension fund right there 👍
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I always preferred my mk2 non PAS car to my friends assisted car both being on 15s. Do you still own Zerstorer and Blitz Steve?
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I've just received an email informing me of this post! Bump in case its been caught up in recent forum issues
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So a "prime" button on the dash firing the fuel relay prior to cranking would help this situation? Many have swapped the FPR believing it was the cause of the pressure losses, but in MJAs case it was leaking injectors also flooding bores preventing a spark - double whammy!
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Personally I’d rather fit an under bonnet fuel pressure gauge than an NRV, then you’d know exactly what the pressure was on a non start / long crank.
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Cressas appears to be backwards, the arrow on the NRV is pointing against the flow? If the pipe wraps around the tank like yours it's is correct, I imagined it looped anti clock and the arrow on the NRV would then be the wrong direction.
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Confused with the NRV, can you post a wider angle pic?
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It doesn't look too bad, the engine turns over OK with a spanner on the crank ie no interference between valves and pistons? Has it been a full strip with dizzy removed or just head off?
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They’re not handed, so you can swap struts side to side and see if the noise moves?
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Salvage cars are often better buys than a laid up potential project, they were in use prior, the owner had no intention of selling and spending to keep the car in good condition. Sadly people would prefer a Pidgeon shit / grinder welded rot box rather than a solid car with some panel damage.....
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Dave16v recently bought the pump only for £65ish uk supplier, maybe drop him a dm?