Dox
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Content Count
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Joined
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Last visited
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21
Everything posted by Dox
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They’re not handed, so you can swap struts side to side and see if the noise moves?
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Salvage cars are often better buys than a laid up potential project, they were in use prior, the owner had no intention of selling and spending to keep the car in good condition. Sadly people would prefer a Pidgeon shit / grinder welded rot box rather than a solid car with some panel damage.....
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Dave16v recently bought the pump only for £65ish uk supplier, maybe drop him a dm?
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Nothing 😂 I did cut one up yesterday though. I went to Tatton Park VW show, around 10 Corrados dotted about, sun was out many visitors, cars exhibitors after COVID, it was nice to see
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Do you think it could have jumped a tooth on the timing? It might be worth checking static timing?
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That’s a big leap for a map. Darkside have done a few V6 quattros, big turbos deletes etc Proper fast cars and still do 40 mpg
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Egr / dpf intact or removed? must fly now?
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White plug by the oil cooler I think. I’d remove it and wipe it, being a coil (electro magnet) they can pick up swarf / metal debris, 4 or 5 mm Allen bolt I think
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Check the wiring to cam and crank sensors, faulty cam sensor usually gives long cranking before eventually starting - Roger Chatfield had this many moons ago.
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You’ll get an engine speed sensor code if you scan without the engine running. someone here contacted Vince after popping a few and his recommendation was to replace the crank sensor as it was still ok most of the time but gave false info on occasion causing a backfire into the inlet. generally if the dash reads rpm when cranking the sensor is picking up (which doesn’t mean it’s timed correctly for suck, squeeze, bang, blow - a bang during suck would cause your issue).
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Yes, I'm sure a faulty crank sensor allows fuel to be injected with the inlet valve open and a wrongly timed spark blows the box?
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Has the damper box thing blown?
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Starter / battery battery to gearbox also any corrosion (or paint) where the starter touches the bellhousing basically anything in the circuit that’s causing resistance (voltage drop).
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Keep an eye on it, there’s been several reports in the past of this followed by the end tread shearing off whilst driving after retightening.
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Engine earth fitted, clear of corrosion and tight? out of gear, remove the small wire to the starter and put 12v positive to it (this bypasses the ignition switch) - don’t run yourself over! clean battery / earth / starter connectors are essential for the starter to crank over an engine with compression, bad connections steal amps from the starter and volts (ecu will need to reach its minimum voltage to function) from other circuits as the starter trys to complete its task.
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Front windscreen, a pillars and roof to the sunroof aperture, little rust on show £100 Ono Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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Look at sexy bourbon thread, he has 268s, schrick, induction, exhaust and stealth map with 3.6 diff too
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It’s just a case of being patient, you’ll be very lucky to find one complete for less than £1200, then you’ll need a remap to see full benefits. what are you looking for, ultimate power, improved drivability or looks? Ultimate would be 268 degrees cams, exhaust, filter, Schrick and map for 220 - 230bhp on a healthy engine The above minus camshafts 210 - 220bhp
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The bit I can’t understand, numbers of cars are decreasing, the schrick is something that doesn’t wear out, where have they all gone?
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Looks very different since the last time I saw it
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You’d have to secure it in the expansion tank as you wouldn’t want it in the coolant pump
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If you drop a magnet into the water does it clear? I’m wondering if that would help collect rust particles? It would need cleaning often at first, less so as time goes on?
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Have you hosed out the block and rad prior to filling with coolant? I always use 50/50 personally with all my cars.
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Bump, I can't believe its been nearly 7 years since someone posted here.