HiAsAKite

Mine used to be garaged and used only when I really wanted to us it (once every 2 weeks maybe, very little use over winter/on salty roads, would hose it down when it had been on salty roads).... Now (since Feb) its being used 3-4 times a week...(and not grumbling).. Either way even when it was garaged, it was never left more than 3 weeks without use, so the kind of issues that may crop up with stored cars (hardened hoses, weak battery leading to flooded engine on attempting to start etc) never really cropped up, just learned to leave it in gear and off the handbrake in the garage to ensure the rear callipers didn't seize..

Sorry to hear the news... ...hope it all gets sorted ASAP for you...

VRs on 226,000 km (about 140,000 miles) and she's pulling strong.. Had chains done at 125,000 miles by the Phirm

Am still getting used to it at the mo but as you say its not 'neck snappingly' quick....though I suspect it has some of the same 'is actually going quicker than it feels' that the VR suffers/benefits from due to its progressive NA power build up.. its only the 400 however... ... Basically spent last 3 years putting a bit away every month into a 'TVR' fund so that the money was there and ringfenced for when I could finally afford it..(making sure the fund also had an 'emergency fund' in case anything comes up that needs doing... - ... last thing I wanted to do was to overstretch myself on this and not have anything left to be able maintain it properly! (especially as the VR isn't exactly that cheap to run either.....though to be fair I've had most of the expensive stuff done on it now.) Yup, JonRB, Pau1 and ReekieVR also have one too.. Anyway...good luck, save and one day you'll find you can do it :-)

Just re-read the advert- it does say the interiors in good nick... ......the car 'could' be the bargain of the century.....however think of it this way (Assuming your mate doesn't want to keep the rado).. ....is it going to be easier to shift a rado with certain faults (or repair the faults and then shift) than shifting your mates scooby?- if not then discount in the price needs to reflect the fact that your mate is effectively being 'paid in kind' to shift it on behalf of the current owner..

Bear in mind the windscreen crack mentioned in the ad 'could' be a mot failure.... ...plus you've no idea what state the interior/seat bolsters etc are... 'average condition' could mean anything, ..also that paint colour is susceptible to fading which is not visible in the pics... I would want to look at in the flesh, but given the value of valvers these days (painful as it is), and cost remedial work involved sorting out the visible/stated problems (scratch+sunroof+windscreen) you that would suggest an upper limit for spending on the car, before you are better of buying a different one.. Without resolving those faults, its likely to be tricky to get a decent price for it given the competition of other cars for sale... I would only dream such a swap if your mate actually wants to own a rado, and wants that rado..... otherwise no, let the owner sell it and put the cash towards buying your scooby...(unless he's offering it v.v. cheap in return for your mate having the hassle of shifting it)..

G60Dubba- Assuming you haven't managed to shut the sunroof yet- this is a long shot that may help you (it happened to me once).. On the sunroof motor there's an 'overide/kill/shutoff switch that disables the motor..I think is there so that if you have a socket/key inplace to a manually move the motor, you can't in advertedly trigger the motor and mangle your self/damage the motor.. The symptoms of this having 'tripped' is that pressing the sunroof button does absolutely nothing, no noise, nothing...as if the switch was disconnected.. The 'switch' is on the motor mech itself. To find it, remove the lining around the front of the sunroof (between the switch and the sunroof) to expose the motor mech. You may be able to see a hole/socket etc where you insert a key (eg allen key or somthing I think- this happened to me 4 years ago!) There is a swivelling 'cover' that should cover this hole- this should be in the position that covers the hole and thus prevents you manually winding the motor.. This 'cover' is also the shut off 'switch'.. if it is not covering the hole then it thinks you are manually winding the sunroof and has disabled it... ....so simply swivel it to cover the hole... and try the sunroof again.. In my case some fairly 'spirited' driving and a bump in the road was enought to move it , leaving me completely bemused until I opened up the lining to look at the motor.. The rest of it looks a PITA however- really bad news on the subframe... Good luck..

Lol- I suspect the running costs on that are less than most of the other 'beside your rado' though..

Used to have a mk2 GTI as my daily and the VR as the fun car, sold the golf and now use the Rado as the daily (most of my miles are long motorway miles which the VR laps up..) with this as my 'fun' car... :D The fun car..

Welcome to the fold, and enjoy the ride!!:D

Ta mate :-) - I've been very delicate with it so far (even to the point of giving way to traffic on sliproads where I would normally plant the throttle in the VR), plan to slowly build up my experience with it until I'm confident- its a much more physical car than the VR (getting back into the Corrado it felt like I could steer/change gear etc with a single finger by comparison!).. ...however...just cruising along, slowly feathering the throttle surrounded by that noise :D I used to heel toe a lot in my old mk2 GTI, I haven't tried it in this yet but I think the pedals a may need adjusting as the brakes too high wrt to the accelerator... .. *1-Already have a copy of the bible- its been my bedtime reading..just need work out where to get some 40A fuses, PTFE tape and a spanner to get the stepper motor out for when the inevitable happens...;) *2-As you've probably guessed I've yet to do anything sudden with the accelerator yet...will find somewhere large and deserted to explore how it behaves.. *3- I've heard ride drive recommended elsewhere too- my first priority is to get someone like Dave Batty (The Garage, nr Guildford) to go over it, service it, and just check again state of the fuel hoses, cooling system etc... had the car inspected pre-purchase and these should all be ok, but no harm in playing double safe...

Sorry to reopen an old thread, but 9 months after we last discussed this, I've finally got my hands on this beauty :-) 4.0, picked up this afternoon, sounds the dog's danglies..:-)

Hold on a minute- before you start getting the heads redone, rebores or swapping out for a 24v block- how much oil is your engine actually using (eg how many l/500 miles), and how much blue smoke is coming out the back? Just because there's a little bit of blue on the overrun sometimes doesn't mean your engine won't go on for another 20,000 miles without significant drop in power... How bad is it?

Is it particulary pronounced after a long period of engine braking (eg going down a long hill using the engine to control your speed) -- when you get to the bottom, if you floor it do you get a plume of blue smoke out the back? (and possible a slight falter before the smoke comes out- once its out the cars fine again? If so, I suspect your stem seals need doing.. If you do get the above, I suggest you use your brakes more rather than engine braking until you can get this remedied, as if you get too much oil onto the plugs you'll 'cook' them and need new plugs...(you'll know if this happens as it will sound like its running on 5/4 cylinders etc and feel rough, unbalanced and down on power) - as I found out on a Saturday afternoon in the South of France.. ever tried to find a mechanic/somewhere that sells plugs on a Sat afternoon in France? :brickwall: All the best,...

because I fell in love with the first one I saw- which happened to be a LHD import.... :luvlove:

Well mine was imported to the UK in '98- so that makes 9,001 from which there's circa 7,000 left...

Lovely colour- , same colour, mileage and interior as mine, Can't help you on the value but hopefully more rather than less.. I assume you don't know whether its had the timing chains done?

I've driven the 250 BHP 944T and a Corrado Vr6 back-to-back. The 944T feels heavier/more solid than the VR6, but quicker, ...not that much in the difference however....

944S2...get a good one and it should not cost you much more to run than a VR (its not any quicker than a VR either but anyway...)

Get copies (ie save) of adds from Pistonheads, autotrader, from this forum and VW mags... Good luck- be prepared to reject their first 2/3 offers..

Ouch- hope driver and passengers were ok..

Sorry all for bringing up this old thread but its the most recent I could find with any reference to Walker exhausts.. Mechanic replaced the exhuast on rado yesterday (centre and back sections)- it was an original VAG exhaust, with a Walker exhaust. Car seems to drive ok (doesn't seem down on power or anything) and still generates the its characteristic exhaust 'pop, burble and growl' when the revs drop through the 1800-1200 rpm range which my VR has always made 8) - however.. ...I now appear to have loud knocking noise from the rear (I think) left hand side when going over bumps/rough road.. :mad: Rear pads, discs and wheel bearing have also been replaced. Mechanic thought noise from the front left suspension- I'm not so sure (Although I'm also 30% deaf!).. Crawled underneath car yesterday to try and give the new exhaust sections a bit of a push and wriggle to see if anything is lose and it all seems pretty solid, just a few mm 'flex' when pushing upwards which I put down to flexing of the exhaust itself which would be expected... Anyone have any thoughts?...(or experience with Walker exhausts posts 2003). Thread on PH also running regarding this:- http://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topi ... 0&t=479913

Chaps- came across this thread- starts as a thread about prision, but a few people post their own prison experiences including one person who through driving inappropriately and losing it, resulted in serious injury to the biker.. I serioulsy recommend reading the thread- may take you a couple of hours however.. http://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topi ... 0&t=442266 edited because I can't spell.. :oops:

I think you need about 1/2 inch slack in it (if you press with your finger on the belt between the pulleys)... not much help as one persons 'press' is completely subjective.. Good luck tomorow..

I used the Phirm to do mine but thats absolutely no help to you since opposite end of the country... ..If no one suggests anything helpfull they may be able to suggest someone for you? PS:- doing the chains is a gearbox off job...