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yesterday took the passengers seat out to dry, today replaced both door membranes with some plastic sheeting (hopefully it will stay stuck in place), put the car back together and fixed the damn alternator whine coming from the sub!

Well i used some carpet underlay that was lurking in the loft but ive still got the crappy soaked original one so i'll prob do as you suggest and peel the rubber off and then just sit that on top of the underlay Thanks for the replies guys! :)

hmm think i might try this, i believe we've got some in the loft :scratch:

OK, after suffering the dreaded leaky doorcard/loose membrane faults my carpet has been soaked and after pulling it up to dry it out the under carpet mats/sound deadening has also succumbed to the water but unfortunately hasn't faired as well as the main carpet. Is there anything that I can replace this with as i think it has gone beyond the point of re using, it is starting to fall apart and would also take forever to dry out Thanks! Jay

I dont quite understand what this is for....unless you've moved the numberplate down to the bumper or plan on removing and replacing the whole numberplate plinth for shows (which would be a PITA as the plastic screws always snap) you'd never see the text.... (its not a dig at your design by the way)

Hmmm still slightly confused :lol: at the moment the engine is standard however i am going to change the cams from 9a to KR with probably a KR head too and various other performance improvements and im looking into possible forced induction but not for a while (till i get the required parts). Do you reckon for the time being (or even with the KR cams) that a standard, cheapish (i think around £9 from ECP) paper filter will do the trick or will the cams benefit from a more expensive K & N. I dont plan on drilling the box as you say, its pointless as it ruins the box and creates excessive noise

They remind me of the old Saab 900 3 spoke alloys, would have to see a full picture of the car thought before i could make judgement...

hmmm, im still not going to totally bin this idea, plently of people have done it, albeit with probably a bigger budget and slightly different cars but i will research more and slowly just collect the right parts. Will keep a strong focus on lions valver, if he can do it then will use him as a guide and for inspiration

Man reading all this has confused the hell outta me! :lol: I currently drive a 2l 16V and need to replace my filter (obviously) but wasn't quite sure which one to go for and now im even more confused. Ideally more power would be the best option and im not 'too' bothered by extra added noise. Theres lots of info regarding various different setups for the VR, less for the G60 and as i can't use a cone filter on the valver im limited to using the existing box etc. Does drilling it actually improve performance or does it just add excess noise? Should i use say a K & N filter with an extended cold air feed (run a pipe down near the lower grilles in the bumper/in front of the main grill infront of rad) Thanks!

Well if the above is true (about later 9as using ABF heads and exhaust cams) then theoretically i only need to source the KR inlet cam, however for the time being im going to put a spare (early) 9a exhaust cam in. What do you mean by dizzy advance? The ABF inlets aren't a straight swap no as they do not have the same fuel rail as the 9a/KR so a slightly different shape, but without physically having the ABF head i can't be certain about a direct swap but they do look identical but for ease and to quote the guy selling it 'It will also fit the 1.8 16V block, but the compression ratio is lower than with the KR/PL heads. Could be useful for forced induction', like you said its probably easier to find a KR head, that way i'll already have the cams etc however cash flow is an issue at the moment :( Dunno if these qualify for 'cheap' cams but they're ABF: http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=380216548709&ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT

Dont think i've ever seen this one in MK, infact, ive only seen a couple and not even sure they're on here....

Haha not at £620 im not going first :lol: I think i could probably source parts cheaper and upgrade as i go along but as krnau said, the exhaust manifold looks almost identical to the saab one i posted first

Im contemplating using an ABF head, [strike:2wx157tr]with either KR[/strike:2wx157tr] or ABF cams, only because i'm tempted to turbo it and the ABF is apparently the way to go. Also possibly a KR 50mm inlet, although as davidwort said you lose torque at the low range and as the turbo suits higher torque ranges i would probably also benefit from a decent low end torque before the turbo kicked in But i too would be interested is this set up if i cannot get the ABF head im looking at Ok so after some research using KR cams in the ABF head would be a downgrade in power, i currently have 2 9a blocks (early one was a HG failure, currently using a late one which has ABF exhaust apparently, see below) and if i run 2 9a exhaust cams (402" lift) should expect about 8hp increase for free! (stock 9a intake is only 354") 2 ABF (412" lift matched set) gets me around 12hp apparently but what increase is the KR cams? Also if your car is a late 9a apparently you only need bother changing the inlet as the exhaust is the same as an ABF (or so ive read): http://www.golfgtiforum.co.uk/index.php?topic=96345.0 'As for cams, the later ABF ones are arguably the best stock ones out there, there was a post on CGTI with all the cam specs of the different 16v motors. If you get a 9a head the only cam you need to swap is the inlet for an ABF, or both cams for a pair of ABF ones. The later post 94ish 9a has the same exhaust cam and head as the ABF, inlet still lame so just a ABF inlet cam for that one. Easy way to tell if its a late head or not, if it is held on with nuts rather than bolts its a late one.' I know this has probably been talked about to death, and im sorry to kinda hijack your thread abdul but theres so much to trawl through that it gets confusing after a while!

Out of curiousity how much was the p&p for your manifolds? And what is the difference between 9a 2l injection and KR 1.8l injection? and in an honesty i still dont understand entirely the difference between the 9a and KR heads, only that the KR allows a higher rev limit :? sorry for being a bit thick! :(

Haha it doesnt seem 'that' hard, theres quite a bit to read over at clubgti and vwvortex and im going to slowly accumulate parts. Naively why would the dizzy be an issue? (probably a stupid question and one, that if i cannot answer i shouldn't even try :lol: but ive probably not read that far yet)

Does anyone know if this would fit? the fixtures look identical to the ones on the stock 9a exhaust manifold: http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=180479570927&ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT

Yeah i was looking at this too, it looks identical as the 9a head so i dont think it should be a problem and likewise with moving everything over, i mean the kr cams work in the 9a so i dont think using 9a cams in the ABF should be an issue....

Bookmarked! The points you bring up are something that im interested in at the moment too, i cannot afford the outright costs of buying a VR at the moment (although i am saving to buy one at some point!) and i want to increase my current power output on my 2.0 valver. Im also tempted by turboing it which ive read is better through using a KR or ABF head. Obviously it'll take me a while to collect and assemble the appropriate parts but if i can get a decent increase before hand, by changing the head/cams etc then the turbo will be an extra addition.

An alpine hu will probably cost you more than £100 :lol: unless you buy a second hand one You can pick most of the other parts from the 'bay for less than that, i got a 10" sub for £25 and a 300w amp for £10.20 (of which £7 for delivery)

Does anyone know what the capacity of the ABF injectors are?

Try this out http://www.clubgti.com/forum/showthread.php?t=195423 should help with correcting the mixture, i need to do it and its set as my homepage as a reminder! :lol:

Yeah, most parts are easy to source or can be sourced fairly easily im going to guess but as you say, better management is the hardest thing to sort out. Most of the kits on Kinetic Motorsports seem to use the stock controller, they dont even mention the use of an aftermarket controller I also read somewhere that injectors from a primera were a good choice to use... Ill try and find all this info and start posting it here....

I buy all mine from maplin, i made my own headlight loom using 3 30A 12VDC SPDT relays from maplin :D

Damnit, and here i was hoping you'd help me! lol What do you think though? Does it sound reasonable? I mean i dont see why they wouldn't work in theory...