h100vw

If he is using a digital meter the sample rate is prolly too slow to catch everything that the probes does. Only a moving coil meter or oscilloscope would show the real deal. When I did mine it didn't go over .8 Gavin

The W5s run hotter and keep themselves cleaner. Setting your co pot to 500 ohms is just a nominal setting that suits most motors. No substitute for using a proper gas tester. Try Weakening the mixture a bit. I think that'll be anti clockwise, do a turn at a time and see what happens. At least with your meter you can go right back to where you were.

He eventually confessed to spending a great deal of time trying to blow Darth Vaders chavvy little brother away in his Nova. Chewy sorted the Nova by nicking the flux capacitor. :lol: That confined Short Vader to the carpark at McDonalds.

I got the history from VW for my 16V MK3 which revealed that it had 2 previous owners Leonard Nimoy and Luke Skywalker. The true mileage being 150K not the 78 displayed. The good news, it had never missed a service since new and had a clutch a month before I bought it. Carefull for what you wish for! :roll:

Prolly as you have cured that leak you need to set it up again?? Gavin Meeting on sunday near me if you fancy a ride out. I'll have a quick look over for you. The Hermit pub at Hermitage Green. 1400hrs

How often do you run it to 4500 plus??? If you don't do it very often you are maybe just clearing the build up of sh1t out of the exhaust. Even if you stick 2 litres of oil in between services that's still not massive consumption IMO. I doubt the mains have gone as you would know all about it. If the Big ends were worn again you'd hear it and if oil pressure was significantly down for any reason the dash would have told you, if you couldn't hear the tappets complain. Gavin

Seems ok to me. My Passat runs at 114 on the oil on the motorway and about 100-104 round town if you are moving. Water temps are under a 100 but my rad is the biggest they do, cos of the non working air con that's fitted. :wink: If you get that real oil cooler on there things will change for the better. Ambient temps are pretty high at the moment too which will impact running temps accordingly. Gavin

Get the VW part number off them and post it up. Someone can check ETKA then and tell you. G60 injectors are grey and green usually anything else is no good. Red tops which are generally bought as Ford Motorsport injectors are made by Bosch and are just about the only upgrade you would use in a G60. WITH an appropriate chip. If that reading is correct, 1 BAR of boost isn't bad . On the end of the fuel rail is a plug which you can remove to fit a fuel pressure gauge. It should read 3 BAR as that should be the setting of the FPR if yours is still std. Pressure should not be confused with flow, but if your car pulls OK under full throttle I would say that the flow is adequate. Like Darren says a dodgy wire or earth is a likely cause of intermittent power loss. Gavin

The problem is that when you make them fit the space between the seats get smaller and smaller and this adversely effects reliability. I would just go with the port, polish and 3 angle seats. Fairly certain to get 160 with that, more with cams. Gavin

ETKA says so, Although if you have a 16V one then why not try it for size??? Gavin

Sorry off topic. Want mine? http://www.houseladder.co.uk/SearchEngi ... earch=True :mrgreen:

Blueflame do loads of tailpipes. I have a blueflame on my syncro. The meeting doesn't kick off til 2. When are you coming up north andy?

Photo of the exhaust, I bet someone will identify it. If you are not busy on sunday, theer is a meeting in Warrington. PM if you fancy a ride out. I promise not to sell you a headlight loom. :lol: Gavin Newton le Willows

Dave G is king of this subject Stan. Have you asked him or that paint shop how much he knows about his rights :mrgreen:

The 0800 alarlm fitters are always on a mission and haven't the time to do a proper job. All cat 1 alarms are much of a muchness as they have to meet the same standard. As long as you don't want remote starters and stuff any of the 3 mentioned will suit you. If I didn't have a killer month at work I'd volunteer to do it. I fit GT usually which have been pretty reliable. Gavin

I have done a few in the past and it's really not rocket science BUT as Neil says it doesn't take much to $hag one completely. Plus you have the bother of finding someone who'll sell you the bits. g-man doesn't do it any more, not sure if pitstop will and who else can you go to?? They may seem awkward but the theory is that they cannot be blamed for anyone elses bad workmanship. Which I can fully understand. Send it away as it's not that pricey in the scheme of things. I think the peace of mind is worth the 200 quid over the price of the parts. Gavin

It's nowt to do with the CAT. You need to have it checked by a VW specialist. Adjust the mixture requires a 1551 or VAG-COM I think. Gavin

Could do if the adjusting bolt fell out? No/not enough tension on the belt no turn on the pump = no assistance. Often get the same sensation running through puddles, a splash of water allows the belt to slip briefly and the steering goes heavy. Check the belt is tight enough. Gavin

Its the pistons that give the drop in compression. Bigger chambers in them. Gavin

http://www.pepipoo.com/ http://www.honestjohn.co.uk/home/index.htm Read on. :mrgreen: Good luck with your wriggling :lol:

The instant ban is for doing 30mph over the posted limit, you were doing 37mph over the posted limit which is 'worse'. I got banned for a week years ago for averaging a 100 over 5.45 miles which took me 3 minutes and 15 seconds. £275 fine but no points. At the time I was expecting at least a month on shanks' pony, I was giggling as I left court to get chauffered back to Cornwall. Depending on how keen you are to keep your licence/minimise the ban I would be taking legal advice. Gavin

Not 100% dude, It might need hooking into VAG COM to put it in set up mode. This engine was one of the first to use this kind of technology in the VW range. As it was only fitted to small numbers of cars there isn't much known about it. Haynes don't produce a manual covering this engine. The only one around is the factory workshop manual. I bought one off ebay last year and then sold it again. I think I have a scan of it on the computer here at work. I'll have a look for it now and see what it says.

The red/black on an 1800 is right by the coil on the bulkhead behind the engine. The timing is at 6 degrees when the mark on the crank pulley is inline with the arrow on the timing belt cover. This can be difficult to see so paint both in white to help. You can also check through the access hole on the top of the gearbox. Personally I have never had any success with that method and alsway use teh crank pulley. Gavin

Lambda probe is the Oxygen sensor. You can check the output of it with a volt meter. I wouldn't go mad replacing one without proving its forked. Gavin

What about spray-on contact adhesive.