h100vw

I have always found new exhaust rubbers work wonders. Shagged bumpstops don't help. The Jetex on my 1800 16V Corrado knocked big time. Eventually I had a mate warmit up with his acetylene and we flattened the pipe over the axle. Job done. Not what you want on a new system but............. Gavin

I'll sell you a couple of valves. I bought a full set off ebay to replace a few on a head that I have in the garage. If you want some let me know how many and inlet or exhaust. Gavin

If you want more performance, start throwing bits away. It's much cheaper. Seats, interior, stereo etc etc. Thanks for the correction Henny, 'it was simple mistake any fool could make' :roll: Gavin

The 1H Rallye engine is an 1763cc lump the PG corrado/golf/passat is 1781. The forced incudtion multiplication factor for international motorsport being the reason for the smaller capacity. The 1H has larger head bolts. I assume to cope with the higher intended output, 300bhp or so for motorsport. Gavin

Pull injector, replace O ring, refit. A bit of WD works ok for lubrication. I can recommend the snap on tool for the job, although with your metal work skills you can probably make one the same for a few pennies. Gavin http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/pro_det. ... ir=catalog

I would replace it. It doesn't cost much in the scheme of things. I'd replace the other hose too. That goes to the carbon canister. Any leaks in that area will trip up the ECU. Gavin

10PSI would be ok for a std pulley. The ECU uses the pipe to sense the pressure in the inlet manifold. Depending on throttle postion, this could be positive, on boost or vacuum, off boost. Each inlet valve opening and closing causes a pulse in the manifold, these pulses travel up the vac pipe and they will be out of phase and confuse the sensor in the ECU (it's name escapes me.) :roll: Finally got it MAP sensor... Manifold absolute Pressure. Without the pipe on it'll assume there is no load and it'll struggle to accelerate at all. Likewise any leaks in that pipe will have a similar effect as the ECU will be looking at the wrong place in the stored maps, for the conditions that prevail. If you were to shorten the pipe to 50cm it should be ok and if you lengthened it to 1.5m same deal. The same principle is used with 4 branch manifolds to extract power at certain rpm ranges. A 4-1 has different characteristics to a 4-2-1. The diameter and length of the pipes also have an effect.

If the hose is too long or short it'll bog down and generally be nasty to drive. The power will be on/off like a switch. Usually they pull ok at high revs but badly on WOT at low revs.. You can get away with about 5cm either way before it starts being really noticable. Gavin

See what happens with the dissy. If you get sparks then you need to fit it. If you don't then there is something amiss elsewhere, ECU maybe. You need to get the wiring diagram and check the earths and power feeds are good. Gavin

The service is good but as a manufacturer they wouldn't be so well placed to cater for every car on the road. Imagine teh R&D time in that. Gavin

Getting one from Stealth would help ensure you get all the right bits. You may be able to get a kit direct from http://www.thinkauto.co.uk I got one for my G60 from them No problems. Gavin

That doesn't mean that the dissy is working though. There is a way of checking the output of the hall sender with an LED but I can't remember where I saw it. Have you got another dissy that you could plug in to the loom? If you can get one and spin it by hand with the ign on, you will get sparks out of the king lead and get the pump to run. That check s out almost all the system in one go. Gavin

Is there an ECU relay in the fuse box. Is teh Dissy a known good one?? Maybe the hall sender is Tits up? Gavin

Doubt it very much, you will have half a litre of unchanged oil and flush in the motor though. 105deg isn't excessive really. Need to get up to there to get rid of condensation in the engine. Gavin

When fitting rear handles on the front, you need to use the catch on the back of the door from the Passat. I think the bit you are talking of is longer on a Passat handle. Gavin

Camchain, timing belt and tensioner. If its nearly due why not have the oil an filter done too? Gavin

It'll drain faster if you run it. Other side of coin is that it will have drained into sump if you leave it overnight. I just do it either way depending on circumstances at the time. Did you check the crank pulley AND the cam pulley were correctly timed. Even a few degrees will make a difference. I thought my G60 was timed ok but it wouldn't run. There was no key left in the pulley at all. Gavin

I can see that Stevie Wonder has got out of the singing game and into stainless exhausts. :mrgreen:

It's in the dissy, it's the sensor that you plug into, on the side. It tells the ECU where the engine is pointing and from that it works out engine speed. The ECU then looks up the timing for that particular engine speed and load. Without it it won't go. A good immobilisation feature if you are leaving your car anywhere dodgy. Just pull the plug up a bit so it looks like it is on. Gavin

And don't forget the big washer that goes under the DX bolt. Gavin

That decat pipe isn't long enough to mate to a replacement system. If you are doing the fitting yourself I'd get a proper off the shelf decat pipe. The job will be easier in the long run. Gavin

I'd seriously check the bottom crank pulley. My Passat was 'all lined up perfect' according to the marks but the pulley was minus the key. It wouldn't run at all. Also I had a plug lead fail, I had to drive about 30 miles on 3 cylinders, I think it did my cats with all the unburnt fuel. The tailpipe was all copper coloured and still is 3 months later. Gavin

That sounds like the hall sender in the dissy to me. Signal to the revcounter coming and going. ECU relays sometimes go too as Roger suggested. They get dry joints in them over time, vibration and heat causes teh soldered joints to fail. Usually they will be a dull grey where a good joint will be shiny.. Either replace or touch the joints with a soldering iron to restore the contact. gavin

It is the same as a std Golf and 16v. If the bolt has snapped off, you can probably get it out with an easiout. With the tension removed they are often pretty slack. Or try drilling two small holes and using some pointed pliers? They sometimes damage the slot for teh woodruf key, I have seen these welded back up with the crank in situ. I have a crank in my garage, Brand new VW one. I would consider selling it, if you want it let me know. Gavin

You are just asking loads of questions that I can answer or have an opinion on. :lol: