h100vw

G60s run the same pump as VRs and they don't seem to have trouble supporting nearly 300 horses, when fitted with a supercharger. No need to buy another unless yours is dead IMO. :lol: Gavin

As far as I know, it is NOT the same crank. The dimensions are the same, but the G60 item is a drop forging for extra strength, the 8v one is not. I wouldnt trust a crank designed for 112bhp on a G60! Andy, Etka says it is the same and I am inclined to believe it. :) Gavin

Anytime, you know where to find me! :mrgreen: Gavin

G-werks/PitStop can supply all the above I think. http://www.thinkauto.co.uk do oil cooler kits. IMHO it is best to remove the standard heatexchanger, which means you need a couple of water hoses and the oil filter mounting stub from non-GTI to fill the gaps. I had std rear mounts on my car and a modified std front mount which was a fair bit stiffer. You could make your own if you have access to a MIG welder and a vice. Gavin

You're welcome Asif. :) Gavin

Sounds like the fornt engine mount has left the buildng to me. Sort it quick before something else breaks........ Gavin

Yeah my mate says you need the latch mechanism too. Disable the child lockthough!! Gavin

Have you tried Gwerks, I know Darren was bidding on a U bend on ebay recently. Gavin

Can't advise for sure on your VR but other Corrados have one from the battery to chassis and onto the engine mount/gearbox. Also, take a look around the back of the head, look for thin brown or brown/whites. Gavin

Multiple problems like this could be down to bad earthing of the engine. I am no expert when it comes to VRs but thats where I'd begin looking. If you get a poor engine earth, all kinds of parameters will go out the window due to the added resisitance. Gavin

I never had tyre wear issues with my MK1. I used to have that set nearly as far as it would go negative. Although I did track days with it, I used to run 15K on the road a year too. Gavin

You could use a Golf 16V bottom end but not an 8V. You should have no bother getting hold of a full engine tho. Much easier in the long run to drop a whole lump in. The cost of gaskets etc can soon jack the cost up. I have bought full engines, with injection, ECU and gearbox for well under 200 quid. Ones that run good. Gavin

Tattie, you could get away with a 14 inch one from a mk2 Golf. A 15 inch 4 stud one would be pretty rare. If you got a flat on the front of your car, you would have to stick the sapre on the back and move the good 15inch one to replace the flat. Might sound a load of trouble but how often do you get a flat?? Gavin

Out of idle curiosity I just checked ETKA and it gives 027 109 021AH as the KR inlet cam and 027 109 021AL as the one for the 9A. The exhaust cams ARE the same 027 109 022G. The ABF MK3 16V has different cams again. 051 109 021B for the inlet and 051 109 022B for the exhaust. Tha main reason for fitting both that I can think of is that most Corrados have the rounded teeth on the chainwheels, where the Golfs have more pointed ones. Not a top idea to have one of each kind fitted. Gavin :wink:

Seems sensible to me!! :lol:

http://www.matey-matey.com/uprated_head ... ring.shtml I was wrong not designadubs!

Personally I'd be very wary of a G60 that had 160K on it and no signs of ever having had a rebuild on the charger. My Golf was close to being a paperweight when I bought it with 90K on. My passat with the same mileage is in at Pitstop/Gwerks and it needed some repair work. A few years ago that could have been a bill for over a grand to get back on the road. Nowadays tho, that's less likely. Another thing to bear in mind is that it is notjust the charger that has done the 160K. The suspension and bushes will be well past their sell by date. The brakes could prolly do with looking at. The exhaust may be close to replacement too. I would recommend you think hard about buying a 'cheap' G60. If you have a tight budget you could use the lot very easily. It would be better to spend more money on a less miley one that has had all this work done. I think you could find one with closer to 100K that has had money thrown at it for about £3K that would IMHO be money better spent. If you need any more input PM Henny and ask him about is leggy Corrado and how much he has spent on it????? :mrgreen: Apologies if I sound like your 'Dad' :roll: but I'd hate you to buy in haste and repent at your leisure and it is very easy to do. Regards Gavin

That's about it except you'll spoil the car, for some people, by fitting a different engine. Why are you wanting to change the engine for one that is 'not as good'? Gavin

I never saw the pooint of having an oil heater and cooler fitted? :roll: No heat exchanger to fail if you have removed it. It only needs 2 cheap water pipes to delete it completely. Gavin

I don't have a website if, I think designa dubs has a how to on their website. Gavin

http://www.the-corrado.net/.archive/forum/viewto ... sc&start=0 I think you PMd me before. Have a read here ^ if you need convincing. :mrgreen: Gavin

Yeah mate I would. Very unusual that it would shag them in such a short time, unless they were the wrong ones????? How far undersize did you go with the crank? ARe you 100% the new shells fitted were correct? Not having a go at your mates dad but the big end bolts have to be done up correctly, first to a torque setting and then I think it is 180 degrees. Maybe one has failed???? Gavin

Do you mean you have had the crank ground undersize? If so have the fitted oversize bearings to compensate. I am surprised that a VW crank would need grinding, unless you ran it for ages while it was knocking. Did they replace all the big end bolts? They are stretch ones and can be re-used once but for less than £20 on a rebuild it would be daft not to. The tensioners do rattle at tickover and sometimes higher revs, you could hold teh spring while revving the engine from iunder the bonnet. That would eliminate that. Have you posted in another thread about oil pressure problems? Low oil pressure could be the result of duff big end bearings!!! Gavin

I'll look the part number up for you tomorrow if no one else does. I have bought them for 15-20 quid in the past. With short journeys none of the condensation gets burnt off properly. A good run and oil change would cure that. Cost- loads less than a head gasket change :lol: Gavin

Is it arming the alarm though?