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h100vw

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Everything posted by h100vw

  1. Tom, 4 205/50VR-15s toyos cost me 185 delivered from http://www.mytyres.co.uk Gavin Mod Edit: Sorted link for you Gav.
  2. h100vw

    fuel in the oil, g60

    Do you do short journies in your car? An always cold motor will be running a bit richer due to the mapping. Some of that fuel could make its way past the rings. Where is your chip from? 'so all thats going in apears to be getting burnt, at tick over at least'.. My first imported SNS chip was OK at tickover but massively rich otherwise. Try analyising above tickover say 3k. Not a real test cos there is no load on the engine but it may give a better idea. Is the consumption normal? Maybe the Lambda probe is duff? Do you have an air fuel ratio meter fitted, that would show if the mixture is cycling up and down. In the meantime I would do an oil change or get yourself on a longish run. Heating up the oil will cause the petrol to evapourate and it'll be ingested through the breather system. Gavin
  3. h100vw

    Bentley manuals

    Zonda, The 9A 16V in the Corrado is the same as the 35i Passat, the MK3 Golf motor is different. Information on the engine is very rare. I got some stuff from direct from a girl at Haynes. She photocopied, what I now know was the official VW manual. I bought one at great expense off ebay a bit back. :cry: I have been meaning to scan it but haven't got around to it yet. :roll: Most of the info you can get on the KR would probably do you. The injection and ignition is quite different though. For instance, it is not possible to alter the tickover speed of a 9A. The idle screw should be wound right in. If you have a specific question I could read up for you. PM and I'll post it for everyone to read. Gavin
  4. h100vw

    idling

    Is it a KR or 9A? The KR you can adjust, the 9A you cannot. On a 92 I expect it's a 9A. You could try and clean out the ISV. Make sure also that the closed throttle switch is working and teh throttle cable is not too tight. Gavin
  5. I'd go with Steve's diagnosis. Sicky plunger in the fuel distributer or a big airleak/split hose? If the engine sucks inadequate amounts of air, the flap in the Fuel distributer will not move enough to allow fuel in. If you start the car and catch it to keep it running. It is prolly the cold start injector allowing the start and the wide throttle opening/high revs letting enough fuel in. Although it'll be a weak mixture. IMHO the KE motronic is a good idea. It allows the 'nasty emissions' of the 16V to have Lambda control. I have had a 9A engined Passat in the past and it ran like a dream til I sold it with 180K on it. It is still going now with of 200K. Also you can have it chipped in the usual sense of the phrase. Unlike the KR which requires piggy back fettling to have it run correctly. Gavin
  6. The lengths of teh pipes you need are liste don ETKA. If you have someone local with it you could get them made up and save the expense of buying the tool. Thing is next year you'll have to do the rest. Personally I would get a set of new flexy hoses, braided or new rubber ones. Make up a full set of rigid lines and be done with it. I have had to do 2 cars this winter for MOTs and its not that bad. If you have new flexy hoses bought, you don't have to be so careful taking the old ones off. Also it looks good at the test station when you go back. If you do the lot. Unfortunately not cheap but by buying a few tools as you go along, with the money you save not paying a garage, you will learn loads and save in the long run. Gavin
  7. Cheers del68. :mrgreen: Prices just went up 10%! Just to cover the cost of sorting out my computer, after the hard drive died on monday. :( Note to self. 'Back everything important up now!' :roll: Gavin
  8. If you put any of the cam bearing caps on back to front, that'll make it a 8itch to turnover. Very important not to get any of them mixed up. Timing it up should be no problem. Personally, I'd use the mark at the crank pulley end. Someone may have put the flywheel back on wrong. There is only one mark on it and with a good torch it is easy to see, even without tippex (IMHO) :lol: Don't forget that when turning it over, you will come up against compression on each cylinder as it rotates. Gavin
  9. On top of that, you will get stung for import duty too. A mate of mine is in Las Vegas, guess what he is bringing back?? Gavin
  10. That problem pipe is the Vacuum for the servo. Having that hanging off would give you a massive air leak, hence the running problems. gavin
  11. I don't think any dubs except the diesels have an interval less than 100K. I am sure it is an inspect and change if required item. However, I personally would leave one that long given the damage it can do. :cry: For a 20 quid belt and 2 hours labour, it just isn't worth it. Gavin
  12. The sulphur smell is an unfortunate by-product of the catalytic porcess, that cleans the exhaust :roll: gavin
  13. h100vw

    what is it??

    I took the weight off my Golf and never noticed a thing! Bin it and enjoy the extra performance form the weight loss :roll: Gavin
  14. 15lbs ft. If it is too tight it'll make it really sensitive and blunt your performance. gavin
  15. h100vw

    help!!!!

    Kerrrrrrchiiiiiiing :D
  16. It's about time I thanked everyone for their kind words. THANKYOU. :mrgreen: It means I can sleep easy, knowing I am saving lives :!: All those rabbits getting the extra warning they need to avoid meeting their maker! :D Seriously, thanks for helping keep my Golf in petrol. Cheers Gavin
  17. Let me have your chassis number, there could be two different ones. Gavin *mod edit - sorted your quote for you (and corrected the spelling of your name!) - Henny*
  18. h100vw

    typical aint it

    http://users.onvol.net/156349/customer_service.htm If the mole grips don't work, you can use the Boeing Chainsaw, see the link. Gavin
  19. Only comment I have to make about going to look at a few cars, Germany is a chuffing immense country and checking out a couple would be hard work. Not just a humble opinion. I bought my Golf off the guy that supplied G60imports and others. He used to spend hours on the phone setting up deals to get the cleanest cars. Admittedly not Corrados but he would only act on dead certs. He would definately avoid anywhere in the old East Germany. Do some research on airports you can get to from Heathrow/Gatwick/Stansted. Look for cars within an hours travel on the other side. Don't forget how far you have to drive to get it back to the UK as well. From Frankfurt it is 5 hours thrashing to get to Rotterdam and round about the same to Calais. Get plenty of photos and don't go over on a friday and expect to do a deal over the weekend. The registration offices will be shut and you cannot move in an unregistered car in Germany. You can deregister a car and run for the border. The German registration is valid until Midnight. The French or Dutch Police will rolly not bother you if you stick to the limits. Just get the car insured on the chassis number. Set that up before you go, as much as you can. So you just have to call them once. Organise some breakdown cover too, you never know. :roll: Gavin
  20. h100vw

    typical aint it

    Or undo it with some mole grips. Gavin
  21. h100vw

    typical aint it

    Dude, don't do that. Get the broken bit of stud out and fit a new one. Available from VW. Gavin
  22. h100vw

    18.16V

    http://www.stealthracing.co.uk Just off the M40 North of Banbury Gavin
  23. h100vw

    18.16V

    01379 740940 Gavin
  24. Adam, go to http://www.vwvortex.com and do a search. There is quite bit on there about how to do the exhaust cam trick. you need to cut off the pulley drive and then re-time it correctly. Vince at Stealth has the fixed pullies in stock usually. You could send him a cam and have him mod it and send it back. Or like me, call in and swap it out in the car park on a friday afternoon. :lol: Gavin
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