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I’d still go for Dave’s kit myself over that one. Which clip do you mean? The one that always falls off and makes the shifting go sloppy? I have a collection I’ll dig out tomorrow and take some pictures. Some cake from diesel geek I think. Gruvenparts do cable end block replacements in alloy and a short shift bracket, but that only reduces sideways throw. To get all four direction reduced you need to modify the shift tower.

You can get all the parts to rebuild both the tower and the gearbox end. Can work out expensive though. Have you considered a daves16v short shift conversion - the have great feedback on here. Also worth adjusting the linkage as per the Bentley, or you can do it by feel without the tool. Instructions by kevhaywire can be found on the forum.

Febi should be fine - I've always used VAG, but not sure if they are available still. Are you also replacing the discs, as the bearing races need to be pressed into the disc housing? With rear bearings, the most important part is plenty of grease and proper adjustment - you should check them again after a few hundred miles and then once or twice a year as they will develop play over time as they wear. Usually, if you are doing the rear wheels, you would do discs, pads, bearings and ABS rings all together on both sides.

Ah ok - did not realise there was a 14" inch variant - I see you found the other thread. I bought those ones for my Golf.

You could still buy them off VW a few years ago for about €50 a wheel - I got some for my Golf. I think they are 15" though, hence why they are in demand. What is the part number on yours? Classic Parts have a steel rim for €80, but would need to see if it is the same.

Ah cool. Well anyway: - Remove boot inner trim - a small flat blade driver is better than a cross for turning the six small round clips - these should just turn 90 degrees to undo, and stay in the panel - some of them will of course be missing or strip! - You'll see the motor hidden among all the spoiler gubbins. Unplug the loom connector and the washer hose, and plug the hose with something. - On top, it's small 10/13 nut, and then you will probably need a small puller to lift the arm off, sometimes it will move by hand with a bit of penetrant. - Once the arm is off, there is a 22mm nut holding it all on. Be careful not to lose any of the washers and spacers and keep them in order. I thread them on to a cable tie for later. - Inside, there are 4x 10 mm bolts holding the wiper motor on - two hold the bracket on to the rear lid, and can be loosened to adjust the postion of the motor, and two from the bracket to the motor body. You'll need to remove all four - watch out for the brass inserts in the bolt holes on the bracket. - With this removed, the motor will be loose, and it's time to start wiggling. The trick is to rotate and move, get the spindle through the hole first, and then the long protuding bit with the wirng connector has to come out from behind the strut support. This is really important on the way back in, as that part has to get back in behind it. It will be clear enough once you get to that stage - it will definitely come out without removing anything else, just keep trying and watch your hands. It took me about 5 minutes each time to get it right. - Assuming you are not doing a delete, in which case you would just rust proof the hole and use a blanking grommet, once the motor is in place, put back the two bolts from bracket to pump body first, but don't tighten, and then the two arms of the bracket will slide in under the metal in the frame and allow for movement. Insert those bolts, check position and tighten all four. - go scour fleaBay and the interwebs for replacement trim clips for the rear panel!

Are you taking the wiper motor off the car or just working on an old unit? If it's the former I can give you a few tips as I've done it recently.

Excellent - will drop you a PM. Let me know if the postage is more than expected and I'll send you PP to cover it, no issues. Many thanks for this.

He'll be trying to get it our for me. @tonedef - it should just pull straight up and out with a little force, maybe some side to side wiggling. Sometimes they can get stuck - so don't force it if it doesn't come out too easily, you'll be better off selling the whole motor with it in it. The feed pipe part should just pull out of the bottom then - the two bits kind of hold each other in place from both ends, although I did see a motor where the plastic pipe was practically bonded on to the spindle and even a drill wouldn't shift it.

That would be great - cheers.

I'll take a look on ETKA to see what a Polo one looks like. I tried the Mk3 Golf part, and that didn't really work out.

Ha ha - I did. I placed the screw in the hole in the plastic tab on the switch, and carefully put it back in and then managed to get the screwdriver on it in the same way.A bit of blue-tack would help as well. Cable tie makes life a lot easier in future, but I wanted to get it back on as it seemed to slide in and out of the casing very easily.

Ha ha - no worries. Just a screwdriver tbh, albeit a slightly bendy one!

Just asking to see if anyone has one of these to spare, maybe if they've done a rear wiper delete. I know I had a spare somewhere, but for the life of me can't find it in the heap of Corrado spares and assorted bits! It looks like it is C specific for later cars and only ever came together with the plastic pipe that goes through the motor spindle - the jet clips in on top from the outside. Anywhere on-line seems to show NLA for that part number (535955985). I've tried a Mk3 one, but it doesn't fit right and sits loose and points in the wrong direction - but surely these must have been a common part across the range with only the length of the feed pipe being different? Postage would be to Dublin, Ireland. Many thanks.

There’s absolutely no reason at all for the retaining screw to be on the inside, where it is at its most inaccessible. I used this little guy in the end after trying lots of things including a mini ratchet and bending a screwdriver: Draper Expert electronics, size 00 Phillips. The shaft is thin and bends quite a lot, so once you hit the screw it will be able to turn it. I guess if the handle was a little shorter it would be even better, but the advantage of this one is that the red top spins, allowing you to apply force to hold it in place. I removed the upper and lower cowlings and that was it - you could take off the wheel and stalks and unplug some of the wiring for more space, and maybe the seat so you can lie on your back and look up with a torch. If you have an adjustable column there’s a 10mm bolt underneath that needs to come off to remove the handle part to free up the cowling.

No, it was a factory option in Europe and standard in NA, but only LHD cars came with a factory fitted system from VW. In the UK it was possible to get the dealership to retrofit a Diavia system, but it was not a very clean install - there may have been differences between RHD/LHD cars that made it more difficult to use the factory parts without additional changes. This means that there are differences in the A/C controls as well sometimes. Your system looks extremely clean and in good working order - someone is sure to want it, but prices are hard to gauge.

Took maybe four hours - but that was with plenty of faffing about and trying different approaches to get to the screw - some just break off the whole lock assembly! I'd say having done it once, I could easily do it again in 1-2 hours. Heater matrix is a different ballgame - that can take days - can be done with the dash in or easier with the whole thing out. The worst parts are the risk of breaking trim, the bulkhead bolts being seized or spinning and then you might as well take apart the heater box and recover the flaps.

At last it’s out and replaced - this was not fun! The place where the offending little brass screw goes is visible on the right I finally managed by getting a slightly flexible computer screwdriver at it from underneath, slightly smaller in size than the screw, just enough to bite and guiding it from above with my other hand. The main thing is a driver with a long, flexible and thin shaft. ;) Will be easier if it ever needs to happen again - you can’t see a bloody thing in there between the lock housing and steering column.

Just be aware that the Brembo one has the round hook ring for the early style clutch pedal, and won't fit a later assembly with the white clip piece and ball joint. You can retrogit the parts needed to take a late one. If I can find the Brembo box I'll make a note of the part# and post it.

Any decent motor factors that can make up brake lines to match what you bring in will have a selection of fittings. Because it's under the car, it doesn't really seem to matter what you use in terms of corrosion resistance, as they will get exposed to all sorts of everything anyway. Stainless and kunifer is a popular option though if you are looking to prevent corrosion on the unions a bit: https://www.kurth-classics-autoparts.de/gb/tubing/466-475-cunifer-brake-tubes-with-stainless-steel-fittings.html If you are doing a full resto the cost would be a drop in the ocean - having said that I've only ever fitted standard ones on my cars - the problem is because they don't get touched for many years, they can easily round off when trying to undo them, but that's where special brake fitting spanners come in handy.

Plenty of info on here if you search - here's some pointers: https://the-corrado.net/topic/84635-vr6-clutch-master-ampslave-cylinder-recommendations/?tab=comments#comment-1006300 https://the-corrado.net/topic/82652-vr6-clutch-master-cylinder-and-pedal-replacement/?tab=comments#comment-986329 https://the-corrado.net/topic/83415-replacement-clutch-master-cylinder-question/?tab=comments#comment-994400 Early ATE type for RHS id NLA, there is a Brembo version around - it's possible to fit the later type but needs changing of the pedal and the clips as the pushrod mounting is different. Or you can get PastParts to refurbish an old one. The LHD is different because their ABS pump setup is on the cylinder itself, and the mounting points are also different. THe VR6 RHD drive ABS cylinder has less outlets. It's possible to fit others by blanking off some of the parts and messing around with the mounting points.

It could probably do with a good bleed and new fluid by the sounds of things. I've always used a pressure bleeder on the Corrado because of the ABS setup, but have bled an Audi Coupe Quattro which has a similar slave/master set-up by hand plenty of times. The hydro clutch system is separate to the brake circuit, although both are fed from the same reservoir, so they can be easily bled independently.

How did you bleed it? If it's gravity only, you would ideally have a second person carefully pumping or operating the pedal by hand. I usually use a pressure bleeder on low pressure to do it on my own. Assuming the reservoir is topped up, with the slave bleed nipple open you should get at least some fluid through when the pedal is pushed down - as the master push rod goes in, the one in the slave should be actuated by the same amount as it's a closed hydraulic system - hence with the nipple open, you should see fluid. Dox may be on to something though with the clutch fork - that can definitely cause a no gear engagement problem.

Part# 535837248 01C for late door cards, C specific - early cars used the widely available Mk2 part. They need to be slid left or right first before removing -- they often break because people just try to prise them off. VW Classic seem to have it, but a crazy price: https://www.volkswagen-classic-parts.de/en/blende-63da01.html On here, or off a breaker/parts specialist after-market is probably your best bet.

ZF would have made a lot of the VAG steering racks for that era of car - but have never come across a clutch made by them, but would imagine they are fine.