fendervg

Nice find - look the part, but you'd need to compare the part# - as for the caps, there are plenty of places that have for sale, or will make up caps in any size you want. I'd kind of agree about the white powdercoat potentially hiding a multitude of sins, and the first place these would be going if they were mine would be to the wheel shed to be blasted and dipped.

Ha ha - that's bad if it's getting into your dreams - I think I just have nightmares about it breaking down regularly in spectacular modes of failure and having to be towed, with all my neighbours looking disaprovingly out of their windows in the middle of the night yet again as it's brought home by the recovery truck! Interestingly though, the Mk2 used to have after market pop-out windows available, made by Happich - not so easy on a Corrado with the reat quarters being bonded in though.

There's a rail that is welded to the uprights near the bottom of the window - the rollers slide along it and are attached to the ends of the two arms attached to the window mech. The rear bracket slides up and down on the upright nearest the lock mechanism and should be attached to the window glass.

They just pop off with a little bit of force - if they are really worn they'll nearly fall off. Then the new one just pops on - a bit of lube on the roller and the channel will help. They may not totally fix your rattle though - check that the sliding guide on the rear rail is still glued to the glass, as that is often a a major contributor if the glass has been replaced at any stage.

Great work - this will be really useful to know for anyone having problems or looking to replace a faulty switch. If you could post a picture of each switch with the part# beside it at the end it would be really helpful. The only thing I can add as that I've repaired two at different times, one needed some of the solder on the PCB reflowing, and the other was a blown bulb which we replaced with an LED and an inline resistor - that was a little bright, so a plastic cap on the bulb helped to dim it a little..

Is the 535 919 235 AA version any easier to come by though? Guessing by the 535 prefix it's also a Corrado specific part.

It's gone back to VDO - rang the shop for an update on Saturday, but nothing yet. I've refitted the old Pierburg one for now, but haven't used it in anger yet, just test fired the car a couple of times to make sure she starts and idles. I'll give them another call in the morning to see.

I think he means the round hose clips. If so, any good quality 8mm fuel hose clip from a motor factors will work - the original clips can still be got from VW, but certain types of them are not re-useable and others need a special tool to fit and undo.

Looks like you've had to hand over a nice bit of cash to Heritage/Classics and various eBay sellers! Just keep your fingers crossed that you don't have a tip or rear end after fitting this lot - would break my heart. TBH, having had the bumpers off several times, most of it tends to be in quite good condition unless bits are missing or heavy corrosion sets in. The 70mm splitter is the best compromise in terms of looks vs usability, so a good choice. I don't know what the molding is like now, but when I bought mine I had to widen and tidy up some of the mounting holes to get a good fit, so worth checking this.

Well at least it should be really solid and go like a rocket after that - what is the financial damage estimate for all that likely to be? I need to start looking at chains and clutch myself, and a bit afraid to look too much into the engine condition - I've got 105k on mine, what mileage is on yours? I've no smoke under acceleration or idle - just a bit of white when starting up until warm.

From memory, the VR6 distributor will only fit in one positions, so it's easy to remove and replace - I've certainly had mine off a few times and never needed to do marking or positioning. It might be different on the 1.8/2.0 cars.

Nasty - with the aux belt gone he would have lost the water pump, alternator and power steering - you won't get far on just battery charge with no low speed turning and a cooking VR6 engine! Happened to me once with an Audi I5 engine, but luckily it was just around the corner from where I live when it broke.

Me too - once I have the cash (if ever) I'll inevitably have to buy one! Thought your engine was rebuilt previously or in good nick?

Nice - but sooooo pricey! Haven't seen any pictures of one fittend to a C yet - are you going to be the first Keyo?

Yeah, those are the ones. Was wondering if they are per side or light, in which case you'd need 4 to do the lot. Badges are, all have recently been fixed with new blue clips. It's coming out both sides equally....

Have noticed that after heavy rain I get a stream of water from where the lights are left and right when opening the boot - has caught me by surprise once or twice - a bit of research seems to indicate that it could be the light unit seals, seals on the spoiler legs or blocked drains. - there is no water in the boot (yet). The drain holes at the lip of the boot lid seem fine - the water just comes in a single stream from each side where the light units are - the units seem to be open at the bottom to allow for drainage. Does anyone know if the replacement seals on Heritage are easy to fit and if each one is for one light only (assuming you'd need four then....)? Thanks,

Tax and import is due if they catch it or the value is declared - something that size is bound to attact Mr Custom Man's attention - my experience has been 50/50 so far. As for the price, I think it's steep, I think 1.5-2k or thereabouts is fair for one that is fully working, including ECU that came with them and cover plate. That one looks like it's been bodged with a controller box as the original ECU was missing.

If you know the exact sizes, many of these can be purchased from specialist engineering suppliers.

I think the coil pack had separate can position sensor instead of the hall sender on the dizzy version. Both had the CPS on the bottom front of the block.

Yeah, it looks like they just act as a middleman with a web site and charge the buyer a 6% premium - good business model - but do you get the premium back if the car turns out to be a lemon or you decide not to go through with the sale?

Good advice there on fault finding - but the dizzy VR does have a crank sensor - I know because I've replaced mine twice! The crank sensor is what tells the ECU that the engine is turning, and switches the fuel pump relay on, and maybe ignition too. But if you get fuel, that part is working. Have you checked/replaced the cap and rotor arm? The Hall sender is part of the dizzy and can't be bought separately as a repair kit unlike on some other cars, so you'd need to replace the whole thing unfortunately.

Red badges look better on silver bodywork IMHO - I like them.

Very rarely use mine - but they work well enough. I'd say any problems are due to poor wiring or broken elements in the seat, and the only way to fix that would be to replace them with new ones, which requires the seat covering to come off.

Yeah, it was a full VDO unit - swirlpot, pump and a VDO sender unit which I had to buy separately. Do you still have a link to that source for decently priced VDO pumps that you found a while back? I gonna put the original 27 year old one back in for now, hopefully to get me going.

Had a chance today to take a look at this - no fuel at rail, jumpered the pump relay, good 12v at the plug in the boot, and no noise from the pump. This was a brand new VDO one that was fitted only March 2019, so might bring it back to the supplier and see what they can do. Took it out of the tank and when you apply current all you get is a faint click but nothing else. The little filter bag inside the swirl pot had quite a few small bit of debris in it - but not metallic, looked more like plastic, rubber etc, with some shiny bits as well - maybe contamination or some of the pump innards perhaps? The swirl pot assembly was really hard to remove as well - in the end I used one of those oil filter wrenches that have a fabric strap - never used it before at all, but at least it now came in handy! Time to put the battery on charge and check the attic for my old Pierburg pump......