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Courtesy of member RW1 and the old wiki - this requires a licensed/activated copy of VCDS/VAG.com to access the basic settings function: VR6 ECU Reset Procedure ENGINE ECU RESET & “BASIC SETTING” ENGINE ECU RESET Disconnecting the Engine ECU from it's power supply will loose the "learnt" values in the memory such as the pre-set O2 lambda values for idle, mid throttle and full throttle positions. (NB. If battery is disconnected to reset the ECU or Throttle body or Throttle Position Sensor is changed then the "ECU Reset & Basic Setting" sequence must be done.) Before starting note the alarm and radio setting codes / set up sequences which be needed for later. Run the engine until the oil temperature is above 85ºC. Disconnect the battery earth for at least 2 minutes. Reconnect the battery earth. Start and drive the car. During the initial 10 minutes since starting the engine, drive the Corrado and carry out several times the following. 1) Drive from 25mph in 4th gear for at least 4 seconds with constant mid throttle (steady gentle acceleration). 2) Drive from 3,500 rpm in 3rd gear for at least 3 seconds at full throttle (hard acceleration). 3) At the end of 1) or 2), allow the Corrado to de-accelerate in the gear with the throttle closed, no brake application. 4) 1), 2) and 3) can be repeated several times. 5) At about 5 minutes, allow the engine to idle for one minute. After the initial 10 minutes, drive the car normally for a further 20 minutes minimum to allow O2 "learnt" values to be established. Idle will be complete after 10 minutes. The mid and full throttle values will take upto a further 20 minutes to establish. Once the ECU education has been completed, an ECU "Basic Setting" should be performed on group 000 or 001 as detailed below (or you are wasting your time doing this procedure). ENGINE ECU BASIC SETTING Start and warm engine to normal operating temperature. Ensure engine oil temperature is above 85ºC (185ºF). Ensure Air Conditioning and other electrical loads are switched off, including the radiator cooling fan (NB Does not matter if radiator fan operates during "Basic Setting" 2 minute period.) Connect the VAG 1551 or VAG-COM to diagnostics socket(s) located in centre console, to the front of gear shift lever under the cover surround. Ensure no Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTC) are stored for the engine ECU. Let the engine run at closed throttle - idle (typically 640 - 690 RPM). Operate VAG1551 or VAG-COM using the following sequences and observe the displays:- VAG1551: VAG-COM: Select address word - 01 (Engine) Select 01 - Engine Key 04 - Basic Setting, press Q to confirm entry. Select Basic Settings - 04 Key 001 (note2) - Display group 001, Key 001 (note2) - Display group 001, press Q to confirm entry. press "Go!" System now in "Basic Setting". System now in "Basic Setting". ------------ Increase the engine speed to 2,500 rpm for 3 seconds. --------------- ------------- Allow to idle for 2 minutes minmum. Check CO level. ----------------- When radiator fan is NOT running, Press ->, 06, Q When radiator fan is NOT running, "Done, Go Back". Motronic M2.9 ECU Group 001 Field 1: Engine RPM - 680rpm (Allowable 650–750rpm). Field 2: Coolant Temp.- above 85ºC, typically 92ºC/98ºC. Field 3: Active Lambda - 1.00 +/- 0.2, slowly fluctuating +/-0.02 max, 2 second period, typically. Field 4: Ignition Timing - 6.00º +/- 1º, fluctuating slightly. Motronic M2.7 ECU Group 000 Field 1: Coolant Temperature - 185, below 210 corresponds 85ºC to 99ºC. Field 3: Engine RPM - 65, below 75, corresponds to 650 – 750rpm. Field 10: Ignition Timing - 85 to 91, corresponds to 4º to 8º BTDC. (Note2: Motronic ECUs at M2.7 software standard use group 000 for "Basic Setting", ECU part no. 021 906 258B, BF, CC ) (Note2: Motronic ECUs at M2.9 software standard use group 001 for "Basic Setting", ECU part no. 021 906 258AG & CP ) (NB. Basic setting places the ECU into a specific offset condition from which the engine sensors can be measured.)

Here you go - courtesy of the Internet wayback machine! I think I only had a print copy from before, so glad I found this. There's probably a few more bits of the old Wiki floating around there - should make this a sticky though - I'll see if I can post it in the engine forum as well. Also here:

Wiki is gone for now, but I'll see if I can find a copy if I have it. To be honest, it's not really necessary, as all the values will be learnt again over time, and it's quite time consuming and difficult to do on normal roads. Disconnecting the battery will clear the stored values in the ECU, and then driving over the full range of the engine for 20-30 mins will sort all the adaptation anyway assuming all your sensors are working normally. From memory: - run engine to normal temp (stage 1 fan kicks in) - disconnect battery for 10 minutes - reconnect and drive car for 20 mins, in all gears, accelerating fully etc. - connect VCDS/VAG.com to diagnostic port - go into ECU module, and hit "Basic settings" when fan is not running, leave it like that for at least a couple of minutes (as it is in now in learning mode for the TPS) and the hit "go back" or "ok" But as said above, it will learn all this and adapt with normal driving, apart from when you've replaced things like the TPS or MAF - main thing is not to do it from cold. It's not even listed as a procedure in the Bentley (or at least I can't find it) and there's no way any dealer or mechanic was doing this every time the battery was disconnected, so the value of the procedure is debatable. RW1 used to be the man on here for info on this kind of stuff.

Is most of that not loom for the steering column switches and ignition as well as dash switches? These are usually cable tied up high and to the column, and inside the dash plastics. It is a mess in there even when it's tidy, but you should be able to access at least one row of relays easily. The fusebox sits in two hook mountings either side, and there is a white clip which stops it from moving or coming loose. The problems usually start when you have alarm and immobiliser control boxes vying for the same space.

AFAIK only the later 94/95 cars fitted with a coil pack had a factory immobiliser linked to the key - does your 93 have a distributor? But there may be an after marked one fitted. Crank position sensor you could try VW, TPS, VW Heritage or there are usually plenty on eBay.

I'd try and jumper the fuel pump relay slot directly first - if it starts like that you know the wiring back to the pump is ok. If it doesn't then look for power to the really and why it's not being triggered. There's a few on here who know this stuff inside out, so hopefully one of them will be along soon to help out....

Not sure, but that's what I've seen from my testing and observations on my car - the VR6 doesn't prime in the same way as an 8v or 16v, where you can clearly hear the pump running with the ignition on. It's a safety feature anyway, so that when the engine stops turning the fuel is cut - otherwise the fuel would still be flowing with ignition on. I'm open to corrections though, but the signal definitely comes from the ECU, not ignition, so it must be checking for other input before it switches the relay. Another thing to check is any alarm/immobiliser as most of them cut into the starter and fuel pump circuits - so if there is any fitted, this is worth investigating.

You'll want to check the fuel pump wires to the boot for continuity to make sure the continuity is there, but chances are there is no power coming from the fuel pump relay. This is switched by the ECU when it sees the engine is turning, but it's possible to use a short wire/paper clip or test lead to bridge the fuel pump relay - this would be my first test. The diagram on the side of the realy will show what pins to bridge. The ECU sees the crank sensor and hall sender signals when the starter is run, and then trips the relay.

Yeah, not needed - just an old UK market safety thing in the regulations - I suppose DRLs of a sort. It was to prevent drivers from driving in darkness with just the sidelights on as a lot of cars didn't give any visual indication of what setting they were on, and this feature made the low beams glow to put out more light. Just tape them up and insulate them, if you want stick them in a bag to waterproof them.

It's not that there are uprated looms for the sidelights, but that they need to be connected. The Corrado headlight connector has four pins, for high, low, earth and sidelights, and a lot of looms only have the first three, which means the feed for the side lights needs to be connected. This is different to the Golf etc, where the headlight connector is a standard 3 terminal H4, and the wires for the sidelights are run separately to each of the two bulbs. Some looms that use OEM connectors will take the feed for the sidelights directly from the old connector that is used to switch the relays, but normally this would not be run through the relays and fuses, but directly from the switch to the headlight. Not sure if that makes sense - but I will try and dig out a few pictures.

What happens to the switches is that the heat of the filament bulb damages the two tabs for the rocker part, then the tracks go out of alignment and hence you get a short and maybe a fire - easiest fix is to install a small fuse on the earth wire - this is documented in a sticky in the Electrical section as far as I can remember. Alternatively, source a Chinese Jetta switch, which works identically but has LED bulbs. For any uprated loom with relays on a UK car, you need to disconnect the dim dip resistor - not all looms will have a wire for the sidelight present, so in some cases you need to feed this from the original loom.

Ha ha - we've all done that - have you got a battery charger, or a small trickle charger/conditioner if it's left standing for a while? 2-3 weeks sees mine run flat regardless.

Yep, checking each fused circuit individually is the only way - you can get multimeter leads that have a blade fuse adapter built into them, plugs straight into the fusebox and means you don't need to hold the probes in place.

Would the sump cut-out be a different size and need to be modified? Surely the VR is longer and a different shape to the 4 cylinder ones. It's easy enough to make a try out of ABS if you can find a way to mount it - one concern would be that it can reduce the airflow for cooling, so that might be a concern with the VR, which already runs hot.

Are these fittings not for the black plastic fuel filter holder on the underside of the car ( only fitted on some models)? The swirl pot sits inside the tank and slots into a bayonet type mount on the tank floor, or so I thought.

That's what I had it pegged as - there should be a number of metal clips, maybe 4 or 5 that help hold them together and grip the upper lip of the door card - no. 9 in the parts diagram above.

That'll be the date of the paint inspection in German "Inspektion Lackierung" - so not necessarily the day the car was finished, but close.

Recaros look great keyo - glad you found a set after hunting for a while. Sadly I don't have the budget for some at the moment, but would love some grey ones.

I think they may be off an A4, but probably found on lots of other like Skoda/Seat.

That looks nice - are they double or single pin? I make the part# out as 8D0947561, it looks like there might be a double contact version ending in A. Just musing because the double ones are handy for alarm systems, lights on buzzer etc.

Bosch/VDO/Siemens and Pierburg are all good makes - after that you are into buyer beware territory and cheap Chinese copies. To be honest, 100-200 for a quality pump would be normal and there's nothing worse than a fuel pump failure while driving. The VR6 VDO pump can cost as much as 400 squids. Is your 16V pump set up a lift pump in the tank and a main pump underneath? I'd expect to pay about 100 or so for a decent lift pump.

What you need is someone who has experience with the G charged engines - a lot of places over here won't deal with them any more. Or another G60 owner who could help out. I think there are a few common issues that cuase rough running, and once they are sorted should be ok - the guts of the engine are the basic 8v block design after all, and they are practically bulletproof.

Electrical stuff can all be fixed - usually just a bad earth or short/broken wire. Just takes time and patience. The brakes sound like the rear callipers have seized, which is a common problem, and possibly your servo assist is not working, usually and air leak in the vacuum system. I guess it comes down to how much your budget for a new car is and if you have any emotional attachment to this one - overall it just sounds like any project that has been left sitting for a while. Any other Corrado will probably still need a lot of things sorting unless you pay top dollar. G60s are now becoming very rare and it would be shame to let one go to the great scrapyard in the sky.

As far as I know he still makes them - it's one of the items on my list. Could well be interested in your old one if you are selling - let me know. The shifter end is just one part of the equation, you can also get a lot of wear in the plastic parts and bushings at the gearbox side. The cables themselves don't really wear or stretch - it's just the end clips that break, and it's possible to get billet replacements for these.

This is where I got some of my bushings and rebuild kit parts - they look to be good quality - they also used to do a short shifter for the 02A, but not anymore.