-
Content Count
3,279 -
Joined
-
Last visited
-
Days Won
28
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Blogs
Calendar
Articles
Gallery
Downloads
Store
Everything posted by fendervg
-
Doesn't sound right - distributor ones are longer than coilpack as the dizzy body sits further away from the side of the head. In any case, there wouldn't be any difference between OBD1 (all Corrado VRs are OBD1) and OBD2 with coil pack (as far as I know all OBD2 Golf AAA etc. engines are coil pack only).
-
Maybe take a look at the ARZ Tuning site - they sell (or at least used to) a couple of different timing chain kits for the VR6 - this might be easier than trying to source all the components separately.
-
The extra mm or so in girth won't make your car go any faster, contrary to what some would want you to believe! The coil pack leads are slightly shorter, but to be honest, not really noticeable fi you have the distributor ones on there instead, but you might prefer them just for a neat and tidy look. They also won't come with the centre lead for the dizzy. Back in the day, any half-decent factors would have been able to make up a set of leads to your specification - it's not rocket science after all. It might also be worth checking out any of the other makes of cars that were fitted with the coil pack VR, such as the Ford Galaxy, Seat Alhambra etc, and I think even some Mercs.
-
Looks like a door contact switch for the interior light - doesn't seem OEM, the switch part looks different and has more metal, and the electrical tape around the wires is suspicious - but an alarm fitter might have replaced it or fitted a different one that has more contact pins than the factory one (they usually have two).
-
This might the significant price difference between the VDO/Bosch units and the cheaper copies - it could well be that the grade of metal being used is inferior. Still, corrosion shouldn't really happen without water in the petrol.
-
Hmmm - will be interesting to see where that ends up - parted out or restored. It's quite a lot of money for one in that condition - but could steal bring in a few grand if broken. Not having a V5 won't help its case.
-
What do you use to troubleshoot/repair your Corrado?
fendervg replied to ABV-VR6's topic in Engine Bay
The ECU relay 109 and fuel pump 67/167 are correct - sometimes the numbers changed over the years. -
Ouch - nice neighbourhood. Looks like they'll be ok though - another convertible sitting on the drive 😉 If it has been a Fiat/Renault/Alfa it would have jsut gone on fire by itself without any help. Seriously though, always double check everything is tightened and prime and do a leak test with the starter motor only and leads disconnected before starting an engine after working on the fuel system - have nearly been caught out a few times myself.
-
Fair play - I'm always cautious of these "agreed" values as they will invariably pull out other clauses or claim the terms of the classic policy were broken and end up paying out what they call market value - I have yet to hear of anyone getting a full agreed value when a car is written off for a Mk2/Corrado/Scirocco/quattro etc, but I'm open to being pleasantly surprised if anyone can prove otherwise or has lived to tell the tale. Agree with you fully Keyo that insurance should get you back what you lost, or at least what you started with before whatever bad incident took place - just in practice it never seems to work out that way.....
-
Cox Motorsport Japan VSR MK3 and Vento Brochure
fendervg replied to Keyo's topic in General Car Chat
Not me - mine is taking a pandemic holiday to save some tax dollars at the moment! I do know of a silver 8v up around there, so could be the same car. -
What do you use to troubleshoot/repair your Corrado?
fendervg replied to ABV-VR6's topic in Engine Bay
Yep, the tech guides were great - that was the one I used to do my heater matrix as well! -
What do you use to troubleshoot/repair your Corrado?
fendervg replied to ABV-VR6's topic in Engine Bay
It's a shame because there used to be a really good Corrado Club of Canada web site with a busy forum and lots of tech how-tos and articles - your questions would have been answered there for sure - but it's long gone now. The Peter Russek VR Engine book arrived today - it's actually more an A5 pocket manual, 88 pages, cheaply printed, but with good illustrations. Gives a good description of the VR design and layout and looks like it would be most useful for an engine out rebuild - the other sections on ignition. cooling and fuel injection are pretty sparse and the Bentley is better for that I'd say - cost was £12 direct from the web site plus postage, so not that cheap but because it's so useful worth it to the enthusiast/home mechanic. I've never been able to find a PDF version of it and they don't sell electronic copies. -
What do you use to troubleshoot/repair your Corrado?
fendervg replied to ABV-VR6's topic in Engine Bay
I think the two airbags were only ever offered on very late Canadian cars, and a driver's side one was an optional extra on the run-out European models. I'd say a wiring diagram for those would be hard to find and come as an additional supplement to the main diagrams - same as for the electric Recaros. -
Cox Motorsport Japan VSR MK3 and Vento Brochure
fendervg replied to Keyo's topic in General Car Chat
This is great info Keyo - interesting to see what fancy bits and bobs you could spend your ill gotten gains on back then. The Japanese love their Euro import cars and always had lots of options and dealer extras that weren't seen elsewhere, so I'm not surprised that there was a specialist like Cox Motorsports over there offering all these highly sought after extras. -
What do you use to troubleshoot/repair your Corrado?
fendervg replied to ABV-VR6's topic in Engine Bay
Yeah, the Bentley really is the best we can expect - it's way more detailed than a Haynes in any case, just a slight pinch of salt needed some times due to it being US specific. -
What do you use to troubleshoot/repair your Corrado?
fendervg replied to ABV-VR6's topic in Engine Bay
There is no Haynes for the ABV engine or Corrado unfortunately. There is a Peter Russek engine manual for the VR6 which I have ordered recently but haven't received yet - it's supposed to be very handy for engine rebuilds etc. Some people use a combination of the Passat and Golf 3 Haynes, which cover a lot of stuff common to Corrados, but to be honest, the differences between the US AAA and ABV aren't that much. VW had an extensive Microfiche repair manual set and also a set of booklets, but these are very hard to find and most scans tend to be in German. PM me your email address and I might be able to help out some. -
Bosch, Beru or Bremi are all decent brands. The VAG ones originally on my car were Bremi, others I've seen had Bosck ones.
-
We can declare them off the road, on a month by month basis although the minimum taxation period is 3-months,which works out more expensive per month than an annual renewal. Mine was a daily, but has been off the road since March due to the pandemic outbreak and working from home, so at least I'm saving some cash. We have a cheaper to tax family MPV diesel that's still in use.
-
You would think that, wouldn't you? Doesn't even get spent on roads, just goes into the overall tax revenue pot. How much is it annually for a VR in the UK? Apologies to mnmv12 for hijacking the thread - that VR looks like a lovely example and should be a worthy replacement and successor to the 8v.
-
Agreed, for sure - on the bright side at least you don't have to pay €1360 in road tax every year until it's a classic.
-
The US and some EU spec Corrados had a third brake light from factory, mounted just below the spoiler, but needs a bespoke US model tailgate. I have seen UK cars with them retrofitted with some careful cutting and welding, but not everybody's cup of tea. There's a wide range of LED ones around that can be fitted at the top inside of the tailgate or into the roof lining - there was even one on here that had pinhole LEDs mounting in the spoiler. @keyo - that 40 year classic thing is not EU law, it's UK specific - in Ireland it used to be 25 years, now it's been 30 or over for a decade or so, €56 road tax. I think the change to the limit was more to keep the motor tax coming in and to discourage people from hanging on to big displacement older cars.
-
Give Vince at Stealth a shout - he's pretty familiar with them. Did you try contacting Shrick? They also come up on their own on ebay once in a while.
-
My Pearl Grey Mettalic 1993 VR6 VR6 was delivered to Sheerness and sold by Sinclair Garages in Swansea, ("A Quattro Centre"!), sold in Feb 93 to the first owner, a Mrs A. Harris, with vanity plate TOU 1. I think it stayed in Swansea until 2007/8, when it was imported to Northern Ireland, which is where I bought it before bringing it south. The VW factory records give it a manufacturing date of 05.01.1993 and delivery date of 10.02.1993.
-
Courtesy of member RW1 and the old wiki - this requires a licensed/activated copy of VCDS/VAG.com to access the basic settings function: VR6 ECU Reset Procedure ENGINE ECU RESET & “BASIC SETTING” ENGINE ECU RESET Disconnecting the Engine ECU from it's power supply will loose the "learnt" values in the memory such as the pre-set O2 lambda values for idle, mid throttle and full throttle positions. (NB. If battery is disconnected to reset the ECU or Throttle body or Throttle Position Sensor is changed then the "ECU Reset & Basic Setting" sequence must be done.) Before starting note the alarm and radio setting codes / set up sequences which be needed for later. Run the engine until the oil temperature is above 85ºC. Disconnect the battery earth for at least 2 minutes. Reconnect the battery earth. Start and drive the car. During the initial 10 minutes since starting the engine, drive the Corrado and carry out several times the following. 1) Drive from 25mph in 4th gear for at least 4 seconds with constant mid throttle (steady gentle acceleration). 2) Drive from 3,500 rpm in 3rd gear for at least 3 seconds at full throttle (hard acceleration). 3) At the end of 1) or 2), allow the Corrado to de-accelerate in the gear with the throttle closed, no brake application. 4) 1), 2) and 3) can be repeated several times. 5) At about 5 minutes, allow the engine to idle for one minute. After the initial 10 minutes, drive the car normally for a further 20 minutes minimum to allow O2 "learnt" values to be established. Idle will be complete after 10 minutes. The mid and full throttle values will take upto a further 20 minutes to establish. Once the ECU education has been completed, an ECU "Basic Setting" should be performed on group 000 or 001 as detailed below (or you are wasting your time doing this procedure). ENGINE ECU BASIC SETTING Start and warm engine to normal operating temperature. Ensure engine oil temperature is above 85ºC (185ºF). Ensure Air Conditioning and other electrical loads are switched off, including the radiator cooling fan (NB Does not matter if radiator fan operates during "Basic Setting" 2 minute period.) Connect the VAG 1551 or VAG-COM to diagnostics socket(s) located in centre console, to the front of gear shift lever under the cover surround. Ensure no Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTC) are stored for the engine ECU. Let the engine run at closed throttle - idle (typically 640 - 690 RPM). Operate VAG1551 or VAG-COM using the following sequences and observe the displays:- VAG1551: VAG-COM: Select address word - 01 (Engine) Select 01 - Engine Key 04 - Basic Setting, press Q to confirm entry. Select Basic Settings - 04 Key 001 (note2) - Display group 001, Key 001 (note2) - Display group 001, press Q to confirm entry. press "Go!" System now in "Basic Setting". System now in "Basic Setting". ------------ Increase the engine speed to 2,500 rpm for 3 seconds. --------------- ------------- Allow to idle for 2 minutes minmum. Check CO level. ----------------- When radiator fan is NOT running, Press ->, 06, Q When radiator fan is NOT running, "Done, Go Back". Motronic M2.9 ECU Group 001 Field 1: Engine RPM - 680rpm (Allowable 650–750rpm). Field 2: Coolant Temp.- above 85ºC, typically 92ºC/98ºC. Field 3: Active Lambda - 1.00 +/- 0.2, slowly fluctuating +/-0.02 max, 2 second period, typically. Field 4: Ignition Timing - 6.00º +/- 1º, fluctuating slightly. Motronic M2.7 ECU Group 000 Field 1: Coolant Temperature - 185, below 210 corresponds 85ºC to 99ºC. Field 3: Engine RPM - 65, below 75, corresponds to 650 – 750rpm. Field 10: Ignition Timing - 85 to 91, corresponds to 4º to 8º BTDC. (Note2: Motronic ECUs at M2.7 software standard use group 000 for "Basic Setting", ECU part no. 021 906 258B, BF, CC ) (Note2: Motronic ECUs at M2.9 software standard use group 001 for "Basic Setting", ECU part no. 021 906 258AG & CP ) (NB. Basic setting places the ECU into a specific offset condition from which the engine sensors can be measured.)
-
Here you go - courtesy of the Internet wayback machine! I think I only had a print copy from before, so glad I found this. There's probably a few more bits of the old Wiki floating around there - should make this a sticky though - I'll see if I can post it in the engine forum as well. Also here:
