fendervg

I have some, but haven't fitted them yet, and Keyo has got some as well. We'll see what the results is - the OEM ones are rubber on the outside, but the inside is a shouldered metal insert - so not sure how much this helps with transmission as there is still metal to metal contact.

Ah ok - I think it might be the same part as 16v Golf Mk3, so should be easy enough to find, but someone else on here with the same setup should be able to confirm. Usually with the sender it's either the wiring back to the dash has become damaged or the tracks on resistor have become damaged. I think you should get 12v or 5v down one of the wires with the ignition on, and then that passes through the track for the float and back to the gauge.

Did you test the wiring? You should get a variable resistance across the two wires as you move the float.

Ouch - best of luck with your search - if you find one from a breaker I'd say go and offer to take it out yourself to make sure nothing breaks.

Where is the crack - is it just that one of the 4 heater panel screw tabs has broken? They are nearly all like that. You can cut a small piece of hobby plastic to size, drill a hole and JB weld in - or metal speed nut clip will work well too - the repair won't be visible once it's back in. Those tabs are really easy to break, and nearly any car that has had the heater matrix out will have one of these broken. And the other pain is because the section is sided, you can't use one from a LHD drive car where there would be plentiful supply and maybe in better nick.

ECU relay is first bet, also fuel pump relay. Also worth checking the crank position sensor. The ECUs rarely go faulty unless there is water damage or a wiring problem has caused a short or incorrect supply voltage. There is no special programming required, if the part# is identical you can just pop it in and go - ideally you would do a basic settings procedure in VCDS once the car is warmed up and has been driven for a while to set the maps etc. correctly, but it will run fine without this. You are unlikely to get a guarantee or anything with a 20 year old ECU at this stage, so your options are really to buy second hand and take your chances or or swap a known working one in to confirm the diagnosis. If VW Classic parts have one, they will be looking for an arm and a leg for it, you can be sure. Worth trying the cheaper relay options first though.

Interesting - what size discs did you go for? You don't happen to know which calliper variant you went for in the end? They mention 280/Girling M16 etc and "classic" and "recessed" on the site: http://www.hispeccalipers.co.uk//billet4-range.html

They're the wheels i have on my Corrado at the moment....

Not sure - maybe they came with a full size spare? I know some have gone for a 16" space saver off a later car, and I've seen some cool collapsible space save wheels where the tyre just folds up.

That's great info there - I might look at this option myself. Did you change the master cylinder or anything else? Was there a really noticeable improvement?

Not really a single go-to point on the parts - VW still have some stuff, there's VW Classic Parts and VW Heritage in the UK, a lot of stuff on eBay. For the callipers your best bet might be a breaker somewhere, and then refurb them if needed - I bought mine new from VW at the time, but that was nearly 10 years ago. The MkiV rears are still available new, but they are so plentiful second-hand that you should be able to pick up a decent set.

There's a thread on here with the part numbers, there's a number of options. MkIV rears with original disks are the ones to go for, and the front 288mm discs will be off a late-ish Mk3 Golf VR6 - hoses can be got from Goodridge and othrs in the braided version, and the callipers come on a number of different cars, VR6 Golf, Passat, 4Motion etc. Be aware that some 15" wheels will not clear the larger callipers on the front, and you won't get a space saver spare on either, so will need to move the rims around if you have a blow-out on the front.

Looks nice - was there much butchery required to get it to fit?

Why are we dissing this car so much - worse examples come up on eBay all the time? If someone wants it, they will pay what they are prepared to pay - you'd really have to look at it in person to get a good idea. Could make a really nice project for someone. Methinks people are trying to talk down the value to get the seats cheaply - my advice to the seller is to sell the seats and matching interior parts separately after a giving them a good steam clean, and pop some standard cheap cloth from a breaker into the car. I don't really see the big deal with the seats tbh, they are not that nice in that colour, and if it was me I would just be interested in the seats themselves and would have to get them recovered in grey leather. What makes this car really attractive to someone in Ireland is that it is only 1 year away from classic motor tax of €56.00 per annum. Assuming the under body and chassis are worth saving and rust elsewhere is not too bad it could be a decent bet - but, as said above, you would have to see it.

Common places for that kind of leak would be the thermostat/sensor housing or the the plastic "crack" pipe that runs from the water pump to the thermostat housing along the bottom of the front of the block. The oil cooler pipes could also be likely culprits, as well as the cooler itself. None are expensive to fix in terms of parts cost, but will take a bit of time, so labour charges will be a hit if not doing it yourself.

Nope - late type post facelift VR6, 8v and 16v bumpers are all the same. The only difference, but very rarely seen in the wild, are the ones with cut-outs for the headlight washers.

Even has a sun visor stripe on the windscreen! The Jag looks like it could just roll over the 968 and squash it though.....

lol: let me check down the back of the couch.........dang, just a bill for VR6 road tax and a credit card statement for VW Classic Parts purchases! Point taken on the engine configuration - I did realise the difference between the classic air cooled flat six in the rear and the 924/928/944/968 front water cooleds, but there used to be a lot of debate on what constitutes a "proper" Porsche when these came out. and I suppose to this day with the likes of the Cayman/"Canyonero" etc. I suppose my idea of a Porsche was always a 70s 911, something like what Saga Noren drives in "The Bridge". I'll keep looking under the couch.....

That 968 is lovely - not an air-cooled engine, but none of them are anymore or are they? The only thing I'd say from talking to owners is that while parts are available, they are horrendously expensive - if you think Corrado tax is bad, Porsche tax is even higher.

VW Classic Parts made a batch of indicators several years ago, and had one side in stock until quite recently, but it looks like they have all sold out, so both the indicators and the fog light and housing for both are now sadly NLA for late bumpers. It might be worth getting a list of potential buyers together to see if they could be convinced to make some more - I think the main issue is the expense of tooling up and the batch quantity, as these directly influence the final price - although these parts are not RHD specific so there could be a large potential market. The after-market ones are quite difficult to get to look right if you are after the OE look, but look ok I guess with a set of angel eyes or crystal headlights.

You can use felt adhesive furniture pads - they come in black as well, and in lots of different sizes.

Yep, holds the wire from the c/l switch on the door handle to the door frame to keep it out of the way of the window glass as it's moving up and down.

Yeah, I did the same - replaced with a pair of JBL GTO507c. I think a tin can with a piece of rope might be just as good as 20+ year old stock ones - although the door ones were not in as bad a condition as the rears, where the cone had separated completely from the speaker mount.

N Nope - it's no like you can do an awful lot on OBD1 apart from read/clear fault codes, display measuring blocks and do basic settings. But if you have the Bentley, you would be able to follow the scan instructions word for word. VCDS will do all of the same, and more for newer cars. But it's a nice piece of history.

Yep, just the grille cover is different - speakers are the same size. Are you replacing both speakers or is one faulty?