fendervg

VW sometimes. The ones I have are still available. The Bremi set is nearly the same as VW and is available all over the web.

You need to test your original spring plates and both of the VR types to be sure.

It wasn't the weight of the engine that led to the spring change - it was the clearance at the front splitter. Engine weighed the same for all VR lumps! [emoji2]

You've got a late VR6 spring disc there (they changed at chassis# 50 R 000 8988 ) - maybe you need the earlier ones as the G60 is an earlier version of the car? That would be part# 1H0412341 for the earlier spring disc. Everything else should hopefully be able to stay the same. Hope that helps.

Something wrong somewhere then. You should be getting more than 10k out of bushes.

I think the best setup is VR6 top mounts and R32/S3 wishbone and ARB bushes, all OEM. But you will probably need to swap a few bits like washers and spring plates to get it to work on a G60. There is plenty of info on here if you do a search. Poly bushes, while easy to fit and cheap, will tend to result in a crashy harsh ride with lots of vibration unless everything else is matched properly. The original suspension on these cars was designed by experts and you would be surprised what refreshing it with new VAG or equivalent parts will do on a 20+ year old car. These things are all regular service items anyway.

You'll need a set for standard G60 brakes then I guess as all the OEM rear callipers are the same. Note that braided hoses can actually be a danger if not checked carefully every year as the inner rubber hose can perish without having any external warning signs to show it.

You need to replace or at least check the whole cooling system if it is leaking. Fixing one part just moves the problem to another spot on this age of car. Just my experience.

OEM or Goodridge braided if you want to spend a it more for mainly cosmetics. Standard hoses should last at least 5 years if installed and bled properly, but they are a maintenance item as the rubber will perish and bulge with age.

I was able to buy both sides new from VW Classic Parts in Germany about 18 months ago. Not sure if the left has gone NLA again though.

@Jim - that's the idea! I had bought some ages ago and just came across them again recently during a spare parts audit! My driver's side window rattles terribly, the passenger side not at all.

It's probably the foliage seal on the heater blower intake at the rear right of the scuttle bay that's leaking - I have a slight leak there as well. Another possibility is rust under the windscreen seal and bond. There is a very good article in the Wiki knowledge base on here about replacing this seal and the part numbers that you need to order

Excellent stuff. Will take a look later. Thanks. That's a brilliant link by the way because it gives full instructions on how to remove the door panel and the waterproof membrane and put it all back together again - got to hand it to those Canadians - I've found some really useful stuff on that forum over the years!

Does anyone have pictures or a link to how this is done with the glass in the car and the door card off? Rebuilding my driver's door and have some new rollers to go on that I bought a few years back and found again recently. Cheers.

Did you clear the fault codes? It may be a different fault now, so you need to scan it again I'd say. I'd always replace the ABS rings when doing discs to be on the safe side. You may unfortunately have opened a can of worms for yourself - but let's hope not and you get it sorted.

Replacement door handle finally ready for fitting after swapping the lock barrels over... [ATTACH]84193[/ATTACH] Driver's door opens and closes a treat now after fitting. :)

I ordered off them on-line and it only took a few days to arrive - you can choose the type of shipping you want I seem to remember. The software itself is just a download. Remember that you can only do few things on the VR6 compared to on modern cars - no mapping or programming, just diagnostics. It is kind of the gold standard for VAG cars apart from VW's own set-up though.

That would take the standard VCDS USB OBD-II lead without needing the 2x2 legacy connector.

I probably have few different sensors knocking about as well. Will take a look.

Exactly.

http://www.ross-tech.com/vag-com/ Expensive but worth it and can be used on all other modern VAG group cars as well. What you can do on a VR is limited to the ECU and ABS controller and is mostly reading values and fault codes and clearing them. Depending on the year of your particular car you may need either a 2x2 adapter cable or not as well as the standard USB cable. Check under the gear lever gaiter trim. Would need to see a picture of the earth wire to compare. Any loose earth is not good and will lead to problems somewhere or other.

I'm just putting it out for discussion and stand to be corrected. I have the Bentley as well and all the VAG service manuals for the VR. The Blue sender is linear because the senders all use the same design. It doesn't need to be I believe. The other variations re temperature come from the intake sender which measure the temperature of the air in the throttle body ( which is cooled by the coolant). Cooling and fuel injection are two separate but related systems that interact with each other closely. The ECU controls fuel delivery only, it has no control over the cooling system and only uses various temp related inputs from it and the O2 sensor (lambda) and the TPS etc. The VR looks complicated at first, but Bosch Motronic is a relatively simple system with only a few inputs to the ECU from the various senders compared to more recent systems on modern cars. You are way more likely to have a wiring fault, short in the loom etc than a dodgy sensor with a car this age.

It's only a linear reading because that is how that particular temp sender design works. The blue one only needs to read hot or cold. The problem is people buy cheap ones or use second hand ones - but always worth testing before doing the work. I tested a new one from VAG and it was duff, my original one was fine after 20 years or more, and with cheap ones you take your chances. IMHO only.

There's a simple test with a multimeter and a bowl of boiling water. If the sensor is not working the ECU doesn't switch from cold to warm running map - hence the poor emissions. When cold, all bets are off on emissions figures.

There are: ECU coolant temp for fuel cut-over - BLUE - stat housing Inlet Manifold Air Temp Sender - goes to ECU also Radiator temp sender - BLACK - for the fan controller module Yellow/Black/Brown - in stat housing, these are for the dash coolant temp gauge, air con and secondary fan controller The "definitive VR6 cooling thread" that's a sticky on here has all the info you need to check out your system is working properly as designed. Use the search, Luke. ;)