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Everything posted by fendervg
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You just need a 2x2 adapter cable for the diagnostics, that then plugs into the OBD cable back to the laptop.
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Don't use brieze blocks please - they tend to crumble.
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They don't cost a lot from VW for an OE quality one - also try Ford dealers as the VR6 was also fitted to the Galaxy.
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I've just recently replaced my clutch slave to fix a sticking clutch issue (the rubber boot on the old one had completely perished and torn and fluid was seeping past the piston seal) and I now want replace the master cylinder as I know from experience that this is likely to go soon. After much searching I was able to locate a new master, part#358721388, which was listed as the correct part for my chassis number, but on closer examination, I seem to have the older type of cylinder, not 358721401, which is the longer older type, but probably 358721401B, which is shorter but still has the hook type attachment to the pedal rather than the later white plastic clip. After doing some searching here, I found out that I can use the later one if I replace the clutch pedal, using these parts: Clutch pedal 3A2721315 Mounting clip 1HO721357 (this clip is already on the new master cylinder, so won't need to order this) Guide 191721421 (what does this part do, and where does it go?) Is swapping over the pedal an easy job and is there anything to watch out for? Cheers.
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I have one of the Gruvenparts pipes - you'll need to get the mating surfaces and the hole in the block where the pipe fits really clean and smooth before putting it all back together. The drain hole is an allen key screw - quite hard to access though. The OE pipe has a drain plug in the same place as well. There is some debate over whether an alloy pipe really makes much of a difference over the OE plastic, as you don't get to see it and the originals seem to last well over 100K before failure.
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BBA Reman are the company that tested and refurbed a unit for me. Has been working fine since it was put in. They are hard to come by now though, so you will have to send in an old unit and not all can be fixed.
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Yep - as above - adrad.co.uk is where I got mine.
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Do you mean the fan control module? What is wrong with it? There are some versions still available new on line, but pretty expensive at about £100-150. Your best bet might be second hand - do you have the part number from your old one?
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What engine? I got a decent Hella one for my VR6 a couple of years ago and have had no problems since.
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Welcome aboard Ian. I'm in Dublin and have been driving my VR daily since 2009. Tax is a killer unfortunately. Best of luck with your search.
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That's a beauty - lovely colour as well - the black interior goes really well with the silver exterior.
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Had no trouble with them - they sourced one pump for me but it was damaged beyond repair, then I sent another one to them which they tested and it came up clear and it's now installed in my car and working flawlessly. The real trouble with these units is getting hold of ones that aren't already beyond repair so that they can be fixed and re-conditioned. My theory is that there is a common fault in the loom connector and PCB that sits underneath the unit that develops over time. It gets subjected to a lot of heat and dirt. My fault on my old unit showed up as an outlet valve error in VCDS, but was definitely temperature related, and I suspect that the PCB was expanding with rising temperatures leading to a loose connection. When I have time I'll take the old one apart and have a look.
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Mine arrived today. Many thanks.
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This. Then replace the bolts. I've had to do it lots of times over the years.
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Hi all - been doing a bit of research and the general consensus seems to be that the stock VR6 IAT suffers from poor design and heat soak. Some seem to advise replacing with a sensor from a 1.8T and moving it closer to the air box. Has anyone done this mod or have any opinions/experiences and feedback? I would be looking for part numbers etc. and obviously you would need to extend the loom and maybe fit a new plug for this to work. Where would be the best location - before or after the air filter? The newer sensors look like they use a wire element, so I guess after is better to avoid damage and contamination. Any input welcome - will also be looking for a stock VR6 airbox to modify if I decide to go ahead with this.
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It depends on how many bits went missing when the lock barrel came out! If the lock pins still sit flush with the edge of the barrel when the key is inserted fully, then it is just the retaining circlip at the end that is missing - other wise you will either need to replace the whole barrel, needing a new key, or re-tumble the existing one with some spares. First step would be to remove the whole handle from the door and try to figure out why the circlip came off - they are on pretty tight by default and take some effort to remove.
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Checked out and paid just now as well - many thanks again.
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VR6 won't idle when cold, tried VAG-COM nothing obvious
fendervg replied to Rpmayne's topic in Engine Bay
The FPR is a standard part from Bosch/VDO and is easily available from VW or aftermarket and not expensive. -
Normally (if it's a VR) the car will idle slightly high on cold start and then settle down to in or around 650rpm after a minute or so. I would say you need to clean your ISV and throttle body housing and check for any vacuum leaks, especially look at the intake boot from the airbox to the manifold for hidden cracks. It's quite easy to measure the inlet manifold pressure with a cheap pressure gauge and some vac hose and a plastic t-piece connector. Also get the car scanned with VCDS and see if there are any error codes returned. You most likely have a dodgy sensor, leak or intermittent wiring fault somewhere rather than a faulty ISV. The ISV is really just there to bring the idle up a little when there is no throttle applied and to stop the engine from cutting out at low RPMs. I've never seen a faulty one cause a low idle and have owned three similar vintage cars with the same ISV design over the years, although I guess it is possible - low idle would suggest not enough air getting in I would think.
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I'd go in on this if there are any others interested.
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Why not just keep the 8v as a classic runabout (they are a great engine and mix of drive-ability and fuel economy) and get a VR or something special for the weekend? I wouldn't mess with an original 8v C at this stage as they are becoming very rare, with not that many being made in the first place.
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AFAIK most of the late 'raddos had amplified aerials (mine certainly does) - reception usually fails when water gets into the base and wrecks the electronics, or if the base doesn't have a good earth to the body any more. The ISO radio harness plug has a power out from the OEM head unit to the aerial. With an after-market unit you would have to feed the aerial with switched power directly from somewhere else in the loom.
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I would buy one of these Anna.
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Cheers guys. Will take a look and see what's what. Door card is still off anyway.
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Anyone?