fendervg

Welcome aboard Ian. I'm in Dublin and have been driving my VR daily since 2009. Tax is a killer unfortunately. Best of luck with your search.

That's a beauty - lovely colour as well - the black interior goes really well with the silver exterior.

Had no trouble with them - they sourced one pump for me but it was damaged beyond repair, then I sent another one to them which they tested and it came up clear and it's now installed in my car and working flawlessly. The real trouble with these units is getting hold of ones that aren't already beyond repair so that they can be fixed and re-conditioned. My theory is that there is a common fault in the loom connector and PCB that sits underneath the unit that develops over time. It gets subjected to a lot of heat and dirt. My fault on my old unit showed up as an outlet valve error in VCDS, but was definitely temperature related, and I suspect that the PCB was expanding with rising temperatures leading to a loose connection. When I have time I'll take the old one apart and have a look.

Mine arrived today. Many thanks.

This. Then replace the bolts. I've had to do it lots of times over the years.

Hi all - been doing a bit of research and the general consensus seems to be that the stock VR6 IAT suffers from poor design and heat soak. Some seem to advise replacing with a sensor from a 1.8T and moving it closer to the air box. Has anyone done this mod or have any opinions/experiences and feedback? I would be looking for part numbers etc. and obviously you would need to extend the loom and maybe fit a new plug for this to work. Where would be the best location - before or after the air filter? The newer sensors look like they use a wire element, so I guess after is better to avoid damage and contamination. Any input welcome - will also be looking for a stock VR6 airbox to modify if I decide to go ahead with this.

It depends on how many bits went missing when the lock barrel came out! If the lock pins still sit flush with the edge of the barrel when the key is inserted fully, then it is just the retaining circlip at the end that is missing - other wise you will either need to replace the whole barrel, needing a new key, or re-tumble the existing one with some spares. First step would be to remove the whole handle from the door and try to figure out why the circlip came off - they are on pretty tight by default and take some effort to remove.

Checked out and paid just now as well - many thanks again.

The FPR is a standard part from Bosch/VDO and is easily available from VW or aftermarket and not expensive.

Normally (if it's a VR) the car will idle slightly high on cold start and then settle down to in or around 650rpm after a minute or so. I would say you need to clean your ISV and throttle body housing and check for any vacuum leaks, especially look at the intake boot from the airbox to the manifold for hidden cracks. It's quite easy to measure the inlet manifold pressure with a cheap pressure gauge and some vac hose and a plastic t-piece connector. Also get the car scanned with VCDS and see if there are any error codes returned. You most likely have a dodgy sensor, leak or intermittent wiring fault somewhere rather than a faulty ISV. The ISV is really just there to bring the idle up a little when there is no throttle applied and to stop the engine from cutting out at low RPMs. I've never seen a faulty one cause a low idle and have owned three similar vintage cars with the same ISV design over the years, although I guess it is possible - low idle would suggest not enough air getting in I would think.

I'd go in on this if there are any others interested.

Why not just keep the 8v as a classic runabout (they are a great engine and mix of drive-ability and fuel economy) and get a VR or something special for the weekend? I wouldn't mess with an original 8v C at this stage as they are becoming very rare, with not that many being made in the first place.

AFAIK most of the late 'raddos had amplified aerials (mine certainly does) - reception usually fails when water gets into the base and wrecks the electronics, or if the base doesn't have a good earth to the body any more. The ISO radio harness plug has a power out from the OEM head unit to the aerial. With an after-market unit you would have to feed the aerial with switched power directly from somewhere else in the loom.

I would buy one of these Anna.

Cheers guys. Will take a look and see what's what. Door card is still off anyway.

Anyone?

So I've replaced my window rollers with new poly items bought off here several years ago, and have made sure that the inner and outer slot seal trims at the top of the window opening are fitted correctly, but my driver's side window still rattles a fair bit, especially when fully down. Are there any other tricks I am missing here? Maybe some rubber dampers somewhere or some foam tape? As a side note, the glass has been replaced at least once in the last seven years due to theft issues (grrrr) if that makes any difference. Thanks guys.

Alarm?

That's the way I remember it. You should be able to get all the original bits new still if you take your time - may need to be through a few different sources though. The red and black does look nice - at the moment I have yellow Bilstein B6s with green H&R springs lol:

Inlet vacuum pressure leak? Check the inlet rubber boot for cracks and all the hoses for tight connections and leaks. You can also do a vacuum pressure test with a cheap gauge and some hose and a t-piece connector.

You can get nearly all the original components except for some of the springs. They were red and black and made by Boge. There was a difference in spring height and top mount spring plates between early and late VRs but all 5 stud cars had the PLUS Achsel suspension setup.

Cheers. Will let you know.

What would postage to Dublin, Ireland be on this? Thanks.

How much would postage to Dublin, Ireland be? Thanks.

You don't even have to change them more often - just clean them occasionally.