fendervg

I'd go in on this if there are any others interested.

Why not just keep the 8v as a classic runabout (they are a great engine and mix of drive-ability and fuel economy) and get a VR or something special for the weekend? I wouldn't mess with an original 8v C at this stage as they are becoming very rare, with not that many being made in the first place.

AFAIK most of the late 'raddos had amplified aerials (mine certainly does) - reception usually fails when water gets into the base and wrecks the electronics, or if the base doesn't have a good earth to the body any more. The ISO radio harness plug has a power out from the OEM head unit to the aerial. With an after-market unit you would have to feed the aerial with switched power directly from somewhere else in the loom.

I would buy one of these Anna.

Cheers guys. Will take a look and see what's what. Door card is still off anyway.

Anyone?

So I've replaced my window rollers with new poly items bought off here several years ago, and have made sure that the inner and outer slot seal trims at the top of the window opening are fitted correctly, but my driver's side window still rattles a fair bit, especially when fully down. Are there any other tricks I am missing here? Maybe some rubber dampers somewhere or some foam tape? As a side note, the glass has been replaced at least once in the last seven years due to theft issues (grrrr) if that makes any difference. Thanks guys.

Alarm?

That's the way I remember it. You should be able to get all the original bits new still if you take your time - may need to be through a few different sources though. The red and black does look nice - at the moment I have yellow Bilstein B6s with green H&R springs lol:

Inlet vacuum pressure leak? Check the inlet rubber boot for cracks and all the hoses for tight connections and leaks. You can also do a vacuum pressure test with a cheap gauge and some hose and a t-piece connector.

You can get nearly all the original components except for some of the springs. They were red and black and made by Boge. There was a difference in spring height and top mount spring plates between early and late VRs but all 5 stud cars had the PLUS Achsel suspension setup.

Cheers. Will let you know.

What would postage to Dublin, Ireland be on this? Thanks.

How much would postage to Dublin, Ireland be? Thanks.

You don't even have to change them more often - just clean them occasionally.

No.1 will always be somewhat oily on cars this age with a VR engine, unless the head has been rebuilt. Compression test will tell all.

Spray some electrical contact cleaner or WD-40 in there and then start moving it side to side very slowly while pulling out - use a pair of flat pliers or a pipe wrench and a protective cloth, preferably on a bench vice. There might be a locking tab as well.

Watching this with interest as I'm always on the lookout for a fully functional VSR. :)

Ah. Then. I would have thought that they are readily available.

Are they not the same on other VR engines (also in the Ford Galaxy and some Mercs) or is it a Corrado specific part number beginning with 535?

As above.

It's up to you - but I would be of the opinion that you need headlamp units and projectors that are designed for LEDs (maybe some of the aftermarket units)- they are not just a simple retrofit like the ads would make you believe. Having said that, I haven't tried LEDs, so any feedback on this is welcome. It would be good to know.

@hendrikbmx - I can sell you the whole original lambda sensor that I took off my VR at 90K miles (it was working fine at the time, simply a maintenance precaution), or I can remove the pins and give you the connector only if you want? As far as I know, these connectors should be readily available through a dealer by the way - I'll see if I can get the part number for you. The whole probe should be part#535906088 for a VR. EDIT - actually just checked your original post and photo - my sensor has the rounded connector on the right of your picture, so is probably no use to you - apologies. But you can definitely buy these through the VAG dealer, and they also sell cable/loom repair sections, which are essentially a length of wire with the pins already present at each end. Cheers.

The head light reflector is designed for incandescent bulbs, not LEDs. It will not work properly. What's wrong with a decent updated loom and good standard bulbs? That's what I have and it is more than enough on dark winter nights on back roads provided the lights have been correctly aimed.

Don't do it. Won't be street legal anyway.