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I have a Meta alarm and it's connected to the central locking - there is a wire on most cars for remote close already in the loom - when I press the "close" button continuously both the sunroof and the windows will close as the car locks. Well, most of the time anyway ;)

Ok - that is a breather/filter for the idle control valve - it's a common failure at this age as the plastic goes brittle over time due to the relatively high temps under the bonnet and cracks with age. Oil can also get in there and contaminate the foam. They're not strictly necessary, and many people delete and bypass it, but a replacement can be got easily online if you search using the part number for about £50 or less if you decide to keep it as God (VW designer's) intended. Your ISV will now likely need to be cleaned as well. The charcoal cannister is for the fuel system and is different, but can also be removed, but it is a bit more work. If it's working now, there is no need to mess with it.

Thanks guys - let me know whenever you have had a chance to have a look.

The system is operated at rest at atmospheric pressure I believe. This is via the reservoir. You don't want any leaks anywhere from the master cylinder onwards. It's hydraulic and depends on moving a liquid that won't compress in volume around to exert force at the brake discs. The risk with the feed pipe is that air or other contaminants could get into the system. This will either cause soft brakes or internal corrosion in the system. Please don't take any chances when it comes to the braking system if you are not sure. You are potentially risking your own and other's lives. IMHO

B3/B4 seems to be the best option. The others don't appear to fit correctly because they don't match the curvature of the roof exactly, so you get wind noise at speed. You will also need to make sure that the deflector at the front is working properly.

Cheers Jim.

It's really just the CL actuator that sits inside the door, near the lock mechanism. It comes out as a unit and has a loom connector and a vacuum hose connection to the CL pump.

The part number on my old one is 535 953 516 C Cheers.

I have a complete door I'm stripping at the moment, but it's in Ireland - let me know if you don't get sorted anywhere closer to home.

You would have had a vacuum leak and that would lead to all sorts of fueling and ignition issues as the ECU would not have been able to obtain accurate airflow metering data. You can test the intake pressure with a cheap mechanical boost gauge and some tubing and a t-piece. The normal values are in the Bentley factory repair manual. Most of the vacuum system is hidden, so you need to strip the covers and trim off the engine to check the hoses and connectors for cracks and splits. Sounds like you would also have lost brake servo assist as the servo is linked to the intake vacuum system. Hope this helps.

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As above, needs to be mint with all tabs intact and if possible with mounting screws. I'll get the part number later. No alarm LED holes please. Postage to Dublin, Ireland and can do PayPal gift. Many thanks.

They are a pretty standard VAG item. Try TPS or a dealer. They are not expensive.

There are a few bulbs for the backlighting at the rear and three along the top for overall illumination. There are two screws that hold in the cluster on each side, and the front clear plastic cover is also held on by another two, one each side. If you have a late car the only loom connector is a simple multi plug at the back. Simples. If you've done it once. Just take your time and be really careful with the trim - a long thin Phillips magnetic driver is your man for the job. And some blue tack ! [emoji41]

Looking good. Great to get an update and a positive result! How did you find the job of fixing the seal? I have all the parts saved up to do mine, but haven't gotten around to it yet. Four kids and all that [emoji2]

Those G numbers are the senders themselves. The terminal identifiers are often etched into the metal beside the connector on the sender pins.

You should always check and if needed, replace the ABS sensor rings to see if they run true when changing to new discs. It's in the service manual. They are not expensive, and easy to change on the rear. The front ones are a bit more tricky. It's up to you and your budget really, but I like to go with what a good mechanic or VW themselves would recommend.

I'd go for VW parts myself - you have warranty cover then. Alternatively buy ATE or Valeo from a reputable source. The cheap sensors will only fail after a few thousand miles and they are a pain to get out and fit. They are a false economy in my opinion. You're dealing with a high performance car after all, albeit an old one, and should be using good quality components where safety is concerned. All four of my original VW sensors are still working perfectly after 23 years and 90K miles! The pump unit is another story however.

There is a rubber stop for when the cable is at rest and this is meant to ensure smooth return to idle. There are also sensors on there that feed into the engine management. Have a look and it makes sense. You may need to take your top engine covers off to get access if you have a standard setup.

As above - sometimes components, even new, are just faulty as well. I've got a mystery LHS Bilstein B6 shock on mine at the moment, that appears perfectly normal but has internal damage that shows up on a test rig (some, but not all test rigs - not all test rigs were created equally apparently ;) ). I'm replacing both rears to pass the test, and will then follow up with the supplier via my mechanic to see if it's a warranty issue or just wear and tear.

As good a place to start as any - just google away and you'll come across it.

You can still get a B4 Passat optional cup holder in grey or black if you look hard enough.

Up until recently they were available new through Classic Parts and VW Heritage. Not sure what the story is with availability at the moment. They come up on the secondary market once every while, expect to pay £200-300 for a set. They are nice though, have the correct green back lighting, and Corrado script on them with red needles. For the early cars there was also a gauge pod with two round VDO dials that is even harder to find. You can make your own set-up fairly handily if you have the time and the skills and do some research. All the required bits and pieces are easily got on-line or can be made at home. The pods are also handed - so different for RH vs LH drive cars, so watch out for that if you do decide to look for some.

Were they VDO, Bosch or VW items on fleabay? I wouldn't put any sensors in other than those. The other ones are all rubbish and a false economy. Always test them before fitting if you can as well, it saves time and heartache afterwards. IMHO. You can get some lovely OEM original VW auxilliary gauges made by VDO to fit into your centre console by the way - but you need to be patient and have cash waiting. I have them on mine and they are the business. They were an option at the time.

Just fix the two oil pressure senders that should be there as standard. You don't really need anything else, but a pressure gauge is nice to have if you want extra re-assurance. Sounds like the clocks or the wiring or fuse box connection by the way. Get it all traced and tested with a multimeter with the wiring diagrams to hand. It's all on here or freely available on the web. Where did you buy your senders?