fendervg

Those G numbers are the senders themselves. The terminal identifiers are often etched into the metal beside the connector on the sender pins.

You should always check and if needed, replace the ABS sensor rings to see if they run true when changing to new discs. It's in the service manual. They are not expensive, and easy to change on the rear. The front ones are a bit more tricky. It's up to you and your budget really, but I like to go with what a good mechanic or VW themselves would recommend.

I'd go for VW parts myself - you have warranty cover then. Alternatively buy ATE or Valeo from a reputable source. The cheap sensors will only fail after a few thousand miles and they are a pain to get out and fit. They are a false economy in my opinion. You're dealing with a high performance car after all, albeit an old one, and should be using good quality components where safety is concerned. All four of my original VW sensors are still working perfectly after 23 years and 90K miles! The pump unit is another story however.

There is a rubber stop for when the cable is at rest and this is meant to ensure smooth return to idle. There are also sensors on there that feed into the engine management. Have a look and it makes sense. You may need to take your top engine covers off to get access if you have a standard setup.

As above - sometimes components, even new, are just faulty as well. I've got a mystery LHS Bilstein B6 shock on mine at the moment, that appears perfectly normal but has internal damage that shows up on a test rig (some, but not all test rigs - not all test rigs were created equally apparently ;) ). I'm replacing both rears to pass the test, and will then follow up with the supplier via my mechanic to see if it's a warranty issue or just wear and tear.

As good a place to start as any - just google away and you'll come across it.

You can still get a B4 Passat optional cup holder in grey or black if you look hard enough.

Up until recently they were available new through Classic Parts and VW Heritage. Not sure what the story is with availability at the moment. They come up on the secondary market once every while, expect to pay £200-300 for a set. They are nice though, have the correct green back lighting, and Corrado script on them with red needles. For the early cars there was also a gauge pod with two round VDO dials that is even harder to find. You can make your own set-up fairly handily if you have the time and the skills and do some research. All the required bits and pieces are easily got on-line or can be made at home. The pods are also handed - so different for RH vs LH drive cars, so watch out for that if you do decide to look for some.

Were they VDO, Bosch or VW items on fleabay? I wouldn't put any sensors in other than those. The other ones are all rubbish and a false economy. Always test them before fitting if you can as well, it saves time and heartache afterwards. IMHO. You can get some lovely OEM original VW auxilliary gauges made by VDO to fit into your centre console by the way - but you need to be patient and have cash waiting. I have them on mine and they are the business. They were an option at the time.

Just fix the two oil pressure senders that should be there as standard. You don't really need anything else, but a pressure gauge is nice to have if you want extra re-assurance. Sounds like the clocks or the wiring or fuse box connection by the way. Get it all traced and tested with a multimeter with the wiring diagrams to hand. It's all on here or freely available on the web. Where did you buy your senders?

Maybe give your throttle body and cable a good clean and check the settings. It worked for me on my car. Runs like a dream now.

Good info there. I'll do a check on the Mk4 part#s when I get home to confirm.

It's usually speed setting 1 that goes first.

It's in the manual. A Google for CE2 VW will also throw up a good few results. I can't remember the exact fuse number right now. Use the search, Luke.

Very good advice there. It's one of the jobs we all dread!

You have a leaking heater matrix by the sounds of things.

The fan speed fault is common to all VAG cars of that era - it's the resistor in the blower motor in the passenger foot well - it's an easy fix if you can take the unit out and open it up and are handy with electrics, which you seem to be. There's a lot of instructions for it online if you do a search. I'd say you also have a short in the wiring somewhere - best thing to do is to take your time, get a multimeter, loom tape, soldering iron or crimp connectors and some heat shrink wrap and work your way all the way through all the wiring that has been messed with and fix it up and check for good earth and continuity.

Engine or gearbox mount failed? With maybe a few other items joining in on the party? I wouldn't drive it like that - get it checked over by a qualified mechanic on a lift or set of ramps. Once you have all the info come back here for some advice.

Me too. Always handy to have some spares of these. They are a bugger to remove cleanly. Thanks.

Go on, get a Qashqai (cash cow) [emoji3] !!

No, that was the way it came from the factory. You can buy aftermarket scuttle covers, or use a Mk2 Golf one.

Your contract is with the insurer. Gibraltar is lightly regulated, but regulated none the less, assuming everything else is kosher.

At that mileage you are probably into head rebuild territory depending on how the car was looked after and serviced over the years.

You pays your money and makes your choices.... [emoji2]

I would say B