Roger Chatfield

Update... Well after a few drama's I managed to change the big end shells and the hydraulic lifters (tappets). Fill it full of oil and took it for a drive. Chuffed to bits with it, no more rattle and oil pressure is good, I also changed the oil temp sender and the 'seen' oil temp is now lower, max I've seen at idle is 112, far better than the 124 I has before. Only bad thing is my ticking noise when cold, I thought the lifters would cure that but it's still the same, I guess I might have a bit of piston slap. Rog.

Can't wait, can't beat a bit of Ed and Mike. Nope, they have never done a Corrado, I guess they can't devote a whole series to just one car..lol Rog.

Maybe we should amend the first page, it says the pump should run for ten minutes after the ignition is switched off regardless of engine temperature. Rog.

Fella's, I'm a little confused about the running of the aux water pump. Mine runs all the time the ignition is on which I assume is normal. I doesn't run if the ignition is off... unless the engine is hot and the rad fan is running, the fan and pump runs for about a min then both switch off (I assume when the engine is cool enough). Is this normal?? just that I read in the first page of this thread that the aux pump should run of 10 mins after ignition switch off. Rog.

Filled with oil and turned over on the starter with plugs out and fuel relay out. Made 3 bar oil pressure so I think things are looking up. Just the inlet to fit (tomorrow after work) and I should be good to go. Here's a question for you all, I've changed all the big ends but only 2, 4 and 6 were damaged, any reason why those would go first?? Rog.

Not finish yet fella's, thought I might as well change the lifters while I'm here, also loads to do before start up. Rog.

Update, all sorted, I've refitted the caps the right way round and it turns nice and free now. Cheers for the help fella's, gotta love this forum. Rog.

Cheers fella's, I've deffo got the right cap on the right rod however I may have the caps the wrong way round, I assumed the little locating tabs on the shells go opposite each other but on looking at one there are 'witness' marks on the cap that suggest they go on the same side. I'm currently swapping them around, also I'm removing each shell and making sure there is no oil on the back side. Rog.

Yes, I did them one at a time to make sure there wasn't a mix up. Rog.

Yes, I've measured them and they are the same size, VW don't list over size shells. Rog.

Ok, I've just replaced all my big end bearing shells, I've used oe items from VW, also used plenty of oil but I can't turn the engine over, I've got the plugs out and an using a 2ft breaker bar but can get it to move. If I undo all the caps it turns over but once torqued up it's solid. What have I done wrong?? Rog.

Ok, how about a Honda S2000, RWD 220 bhp out the box, loads of tuning options. Or a DC5 Integra, Honda reliability, bit unusual, big spoiler. Rog.

What about a Vauxhall VX220 Basically a comfortable Elise without 'Lotus' tax. Rog.

Probably got an earth on the sensor wire. Normally the sensor has a high resistance at room temp (about 4-5 Kohms), as it gets hotter the resistance drops, as yours is showing a high temp the resistance to earth must be low. You have already changed the sensor so my guess is the sensor wire is shorting to earth. Rog.

Good work Sean.

I have an idea, I put up a post last week for a passenger side fog light glass, someone responded but only had a set for £40, shall we go halfs on it? Rog.

Do you need the whole foglight or will just the glass do?? Rog.

Nope, Tracker man mate, GWS25, none of that VL rubbish...lol

Nothing to worry about, it's normal to have a bit of play, it's just the back lash of all the gears meshing. If your diff was broken you'd know about it, basically you wouldn't get any drive. Rog.

Yes it might do that as you don't have the extra drag created by the driveshafts, brakes and wheels. Even when in neutral you still get a thing called parasitic drag, it's worse when cold, it's this drag that causes the wheels to rotate when you run the engine when jacked up. If you want to prove the diff on your spare box put it in natural hold the input shaft and one driveshaft flange and then rotate the other driveshaft flange, it should rotate, then put it in gear, it shouldn't rotate.. (I assume you don't have a LSD) Rog.

Jack it up, put it in gear (engine off), turn one wheel and the other should rotate in the other direction. Rog.

Good work Jim, those look spot on. Rog.

Bad news Rob but personally I don't think there is much wrong, I'm wondering if maybe it's the fuel, the car has been stood for ages and fuel does go off with time, maybe get it out for a few blasts and then refuel it with some nice fresh super. Also, maybe you need to do that ecu reset procedure, if you have the battery disconnected the ecu forgets all it's learnt fuel trims and has to relearn them, maybe that is causing you poor running. I would pop up and vagcom it mate but as you know I'm a little bit tied up with mine atm ...lol Rog.

Filter bowl?? There is probably a litre in there. Rog.

Mate, just realised I don't actually need these. Sorry to mess you about. Rog.