Skyway

Best of luck fella!!! I've also recently had the exact same situation, used to keep trying to start it but just faded away after the first turn of the engine, when she eventually started there where no problems at all. Did the usual checks but didn't find anything standing out as the problem. Luckily for me I had spare parts available so after 3 new sensors, a coil pack, full service inc leads and plugs, x2 ignition switches (as the first packed up and VAG replaced) and numerous relays I still had the fault and still getting the back fire when it eventually started from all of the unburnt fuel.... god knows how much it's buggered up my cat.... Had Vag Com plugged in AGAIN and found no faults! It was only when I went back to checking fuses/relays one day I removed the fuse box shelf did my checks and tryed the ignition again and 'heh presto' she started, thought great and as I slotted the shelf back in she died instantly! Removed the shelf again, checked everything, all ok then turned the key and she started with no problems again, shelf went back in....engine cut out. Now, after several HAPPY hours rewiring and replacing connectors into the fuse box no more problems. Whether it's an age thing on them or over time corrosion has set in through either a leak or condensation I don't know but it's sorted now and I've checked all the all possible areas for leaks and all is good. What a bloody nightmare! Was also good to check around the ECU and it's connector, I had loads of wet old leaves in there that would have eventually contributed to more problems. A good clean out and spray of WD40 sorted that one. Can't say this is the answer for everyone but I always seem to come across this problem being discussed on the Forum and where there is some fantastic advise given it was only a fluke that I located my fault.... Hope you get it sorted bud. :salute:

Nothing like The Prodigy for me. The Dogs B******s live last weekend at the Bowl. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xcosL-Jo ... re=channel

Yeah first thing I did but total non starter. Thanks anyway bud. :salute:

Cheers bud... just checked that one out on line, think it might be the easiest... don't you just love it heh! I've had every expert in the street out giving me their opinions this evening but me wife has reminded me that 'F' off sometimes offends.... also just got told that some cars have got vandalized in this street recently... best be camping out inside it now!

What a day... visiting family in Enfield and the bleeding ignition switch has gone...again. Teach me to have replaced it a few months ago with an old spare one I had. Best be tucking down here tonight and finding a dealer tomorrow, anyone on line who's around this neck of the woods recommend a decent dealer... looked up VW's in Southgate but haven't found anymore.... :shrug:

Think you've got the right idea as long as it's only for a few months. I did the same a few years back when I refused to keep paying for skips whilst I was renovating my house, so I went out a paid £500 for an old V8 Range Rover. It was dire to say the least and couldn't wait to leave it at the tip on my last journey there but out of the blue a friend offered me £800 for it just as it was about to die .... apparently V8 manuals are hard to come by.... CHING CHING. Did the job I wanted it for then passed it on... when you need things shifted size does matter. Would suggest a cover for it whilst it's parked outside the house though.... Fix it at Tony's next to a C..... mmmmmmmmmm

Looks tidy bud, you may be skint but good investment in ya C. Whats next on your list?

Yeah..... just keep an eye on the Corrado spotting! was it you? thread.... may be the lad might put up his events on there :D

Is the gap across the entire length of the window glass? If it's just in one part then you'll find that the trim has been bent or damaged at some point, normally when it's been fitted... if this is the case then you can try and straighten it but to be honest... best of luck! To remove gently prize the trim upwards, with the window glass down, from the inside at the door handle end. This is a little tricky and you can damage it quite easily so be as patient as you can. It can seem as if it's been welded on so be careful and don't stretch the part which envelopes the door window frame otherwise GAMEOVER and it'll never sit flush again. If it's leaving a gap over the entire length then look at the glass fitment within the regulator, it could be that it's had a replacement glass and it's not been refitted correctly in it's guide or onto the regulator.

Also check the guides, remove/clean and re lube if necessary. Sometimes if the seals deteriorate then dirt can get in and eventually stiffen up their movement.

Careful with the Eezybleed... if you put too much pressure through it then you can invert the seals in the master cylinder which can give the effect of spongy brakes... Check your MC for the bleed nipple again bud... both of mine have a nipple at the end pointing upwards, can put a image up if you want. Also ensure that your caliper cylinder nipples are clear but not opened too far when you bleed. If it only opens slightly or is corroded and blocked then it takes ages to bleed and you're probably loose the pressure from the Eezybleed. Always use the correct fluid as well. If you really need to correct the level afterwards then just bleed through until level is correct. To be honest, think everyone has there own preferred way of bleeding ie start with the furthest caliper away from the MC etc so would suggest just walking away, have a cuppa and run through it again slow time and maybe try it the old way with the pedal. Whilst you're there also check you brake pipes and flexi's for damage and/or corrosion. Hope thats some help.

Just thinking.... what grade oil have you used to top up with? Sometimes you'll get a ticking noise on start up from the hydraulic tappets especially if you've used the wrong grade of oil but to use that volume of oil seems a bit excessive for that mileage unless you have a leak even if the oil temperature is high. As the noise is rev related it obvious that it's mechanical so wise not to ignore the problem. Could be chains/guides etc :shrug: Suggest you do a good visual for leaks then maybe an oil change (with a good grade and make of oil) to see if there's any difference then take it from there.

Just seen this in my local newspaper and couldn't resist putting it up on here..... think this fella missed the obvious!!!! :cuckoo: 'who trains mechanics nowadays in the art of wheel alignment??????.... ...... certainly not going to be taking my C there to get it done' jokeofagarage.jpg[/attachment:2z99pm3e] er.... excuse me mate... shall we try it with the wheels on the car.... cheers easy!!!

Blimey you get about with that camera.... but to be honest I'm glad you have, terrific shots of what looks a neat bit of kit bud.

What a piece of kit.... When you look at the price of some motor homes this is a bargain.

Does this help? MICRO SENSORS.gif[/attachment:2za7nm8g]

Top thread Fla.... In total envy reading through this, perfect colour and interior. Just about to start on a set of spare tank straps myself as they do start to look pretty sad after a while but have found a mess of trailer hook wiring wrapped amongst them... DOH! Keep up the good work as it's looking spot on.

Still trying to define 'the cat cover' ??? I know on some vehicle exhausts they have a heat shield fitted over or around sections which are close to either bodywork/wiring or just to protect it but I havent seen an additional shield or guard fitted to a VR Cat before..... could they have mistaken this for the shield around the downpipe(s)??? or is it only fitted on original and standard cat's... Would be interesting to know if they should be one.... cause it ain't on mine. :shrug: See if this helps..... MICRO EXHAUST FRONT SECTION.gif[/attachment:21qrmk2i]

Q: Are you still engaging all the gears ok? This might help alittle... http://auto.howstuffworks.com/clutch2.htm If you find that your clutch has failed, here is an at-home diagnostic test that anyone can perform: 1.Start your car, set the parking break, and put the car in neutral. 2.With your car idling, listen for a growling noise without pushing the clutch in. If you hear something, it's most likely a problem with the transmission. If you don't hear a noise, proceed to step three. 3.With the car still in neutral, begin to push the clutch and listen for noise. If you hear a chirping noise as you press, it's most likely the clutch release, or throw-out bearing. If you don't hear a noise, proceed to step four. 4.Push the clutch all the way to the floor. If you hear a squealing noise, it's probably the pilot bearing or bushing. If you don't hear any noise during these four steps, then your problem is probably not the clutch. If you hear the noise at idle and it goes away when the clutch is pressed, it may be an issue in the contact point between the fork and pivot ball. Wouldn't have thought it would have been much different on the VR's compared to a basic clutch description.

Awesome bit of kit you're building. Can't wait to see more.

It was looking good today at the meet, well done with all the effort bud.

Always thought sugar soap tackled mould without bleaching and prevents it from returning as long as the conditions prevail.

Top photos and 'yeah' would agree...what road is that??? looks alot of fun in a C.

No probs.... welcome along, hope you have many happy miles driving your C. Did you not get an instruction manual with your log book etc??? Might have one kicking about somewhere if you want it...

Drivers side, parcel shelf beneath spoiler switch, twist the two catches and remove.....