science

Yeah, It definitely fits but its best to have a second person to help. I have to have my seat all the way back so there was only one way it would fit (sideways). Boot hinges to the floor behind the drivers seat, number plate recess against the passenger rear window, interior side up. Best to take some foam pads or blankets to support the weight of the glass and protect the seats/trim. Fits a treat!

Yeah, those bolts went straight in the (parts) bin. Goodridge are looking into it as those short ones are supposed to be in the kit?!! The replacement bolts arrived today so new brakes tomorrow!!

Just bought a BMW mirror, clown nose style, for £10 at the scrappers. They had plenty of them with/without the led. Wiring shouldn't be a problem, but how should I remove the old mirror? Is there a solvent for the glue? I don't want to replace the windscreen, again.

Goodridge were very helpful! I've been in touch with the Silverstone Technical Centre and apparently, this is the only kit supplied with those short bolts, but they are sending some free replacements (M12x1.0 24mm) in the post. Has anyone else used short bolts?!

Just trying to convert the VR6 to mk4 alloy callipers with the Goodridge SVW0506-2P hose kit and the banjo fittings are 12mm thick instead of the mk4's 9mm. The bolts supplied with the kit are even shorter are I'm having trouble finding some the right length. The Banjo Bolts are M12x1.0 and ideally about 24 / 25mm long, I can't find any the right length on the goodridge site or elsewhere. Have I got the right kit?

Any progress with this?

How about a 4-pin Junior Power Timer connector. http://www.autoelectricsupplies.co.uk/product/680

An oil change at 50 miles would be nice as most wear occurs within the first 20-50 miles although a mineral oil is necessary for 200 miles to allow this wear to occur. I believe in running in the engine hard ie; 5-10 second bouts of 3/4 throttle allow the gas pressure to act on the piston rings and wear them in, but not subjecting the engine to prolonged load to prevent excessive heat buildup on friction parts. When I ran in the VR6 after a rebuild, I couldn't find any info on an oil schedule. So I did this; 0-200 miles Mineral 10w40 (cheapo wilkinson oil) 200-1500 Semi-Synthetic 10w40 (fuchs titan xtr) 1500-3000 Semi-Synthetic 10w40 (fuchs titan xtr) 3000-Present Fully Synthetic 5w40 (carlube tripple R) Thinking about a proper £££ fully synthetic ester oil next I also put several 20mm Neodymium magnets on the sump/sump plug to help trap loose ferrous particles.

In the first picture it looks like the inlet manifold air temperature (IAT) plug is wrongly connected to the black water temperature sender. I made this mistake during my engine rebuild, it seems like the logical connection but it's not. The IAT sender should be connected to a black plug with Blue/Green stripe and Brown wires which spurs out of the loom next to the Yellow and Blue water temperature sender plugs. The Black temperature sender should be connected to a black plug with Black/white strip and Black Yellow stripe wires which spurs out of the loom neat the main radiator fan plug. If it's not there, it may be hanging around the gearbox unless the fan has eaten it. The second and third pictures are for the PCV valve, not fitted, not a problem. If you still have problems with fluctuating idle from cold try cleaning the MAF and TPS terminal/plugs with switch cleaner. My revs would rise and fall for 10-30 seconds on start up. I think it was the throttle position sender, but I cleaned both and its sorted.

I'm guessing this only happens when the switch is in the central position, Door open=Light ON. So maybe a faulty door switch?

Isopropyl alcohol (IPA) worked a treat when i cleaned my injectors and isv. I was so impressed by the IPA I made a video, sad I know but; It did however start to melt the plastic surround on the ultrasonic cleaner. You could always float a smaller container of IPA in a bath of water though. I also back flushed the injectors with carb cleaner, while pulsing 12v through them. To connect the carb cleaner (aerosol can) I used a 10ml syringe without needle and plunger, small end onto the little red tube you get with a WD40 can and large end (heated by hot water) pushed over the injector tip, forms a good seal. Then hold the aerosol down until the syringe fills and release by quickly switching 12v through the injector terminals. After adding some new seals and caps, came out like this..

Thanks to domwells27 for pointing this out. As of today LIDL have these for £6.99 while stocks last, this model is about £20 elsewhere. Here's the manufactures data sheet; http://www.anaf.biz/public/files/1217838842_scheda_ext_ps1-x%20abc%20INT-ING.pdf

That is a bargain price, Nice One! They are normally about £20. I'll post it in the suppliers forum.

Bodge (apply) some furniture polish onto the belt.

Yeah it sure is! I bought an in-line fuse for this purpose a while ago, I think this is the excuse I need to finally fit it. Damn, I completely missed busbar k, thanks for pointing that out! If I had my spoiler connected and was going over 40mph maybe the fuse would have blown. :lol: I'm definitely going to invest in a couple of new extinguishers, and I quite fancy one of those chavish fake nitrous/CO2 systems set to purge inside the cabin every time I get twitchy thinking about the wiring. Oh yeah, I forgot about the boot light, I'll have a look at it tomorrow, ta.

Last week my corrrado developed a bit of a fire. I had just left work when there was a slight haze in the cabin, so slight, I thought it was steam and the classic heater matrix was on the way out. At this time, I was about to enter one of London's worst junctions turning into heavy rush hour traffic. :eek: Ten seconds later I realised the acrid billowing cloud could only be one thing. Time to turn around, sharpish. And then the flames started! Quick, grab the fire extinguisher from the back seat, but it's not there! That's when I properly shat it. A large amount of right boot and liberal use of the hand brake saw me coasting, ignition off, into work's car park patting the flames out behind the dash (luckily I had left the dash surround off whilst I had some dash bulbs on order)!!! As I legged it around work to find a CO2 extinguisher (why are the so many water ones, arrrghhh) I had nightmarish visions of a flaming pyre on my return and the endless calls I would have to make to my insurance of which I had just renewed the day before. But that was the end of it, although very nearly the end of my car. Later investigation revealed two entwined copper wires unidentifiable as the insulation had burnt off, which after removing most of the dash I traced back to..... ...the glovebox light? wtf! Corrado92.pdfphoto 1.JPG[/attachment:1v4nyskl] passat climatronic wiring diags.pdfphoto 2.JPG[/attachment:1v4nyskl] Turns out the bulb had slipped in the holder shorting the circuit, ok, so why hasn't the fuse blown? No 16 (15amp) fuse, slightly melted where it had gotten hot, but not blown? Surely that must be the wrong fuse rating? But no, it is a 15amp fuse according to the Robert Bently Manual for a car of that year ('93 VR6) to supply the glove box light and also voltmeter and oil pressure gauges (not fitted). Wiring.jpg[/attachment:1v4nyskl] I suspose it's possible the fuse was defective and didnt blow when it should, but to me a 15amp fuse to supply a 10watt bulb which at most could draw 0.5amp seems wrong? So, I have applied heat shrink to the exposed portion glove box light terminal. climatronic wiring-Golf from May 01.pdfphoto 4.JPG[/attachment:1v4nyskl] And would recommend this to you as a preventative measure to prevent this from happening. I think I may reinstall my (slightly illegal) halon fire extinguisher as, lets face it a burning corrado is also bad for the atmosphere. I will also be spending the the next week checking the loom for other damage although so far it only seems that only the glove box wires and the surrounding foam insulation were damaged, touch wood. :salute: 2.8l 24v Climatronic system.pdfphoto 3.JPG[/attachment:1v4nyskl]

Check out RAM mounts, they're extremely well built and rock solid! http://www.ram-mount.com/Products/Apple ... fault.aspx They can have interchangeable cradle / base parts for easy upgrades. I use 'em on the rado and on my bike, with iphone(navigon) and a veypor race gauge. Part ID: RAP-B-166-2-AP6U also fits nicely in the center consul. Can be had for about £20-£25 from ebay usa.

How bout a phenolic spacer for the vr6 coilpack. Was going to make one out off tufnol/micarta untill i found this; http://www.verdictmotorsports.com/Produ ... tCode=0137 Haven't cracked a coilpack since!

I'm in the process or replacing mine right now. Why din't I check the injectors when I rebuilt the engine a couple of months ago. DOH! Had a clearance issue while trying to extract an allen bolt near the middle of the upper manifold, kept catching on the dipstick tube and the fan cowling. Required an inch to be cut off a 6mm allen key to get it. Other than that removing them has been easy. I'll see what else happens when I refit them them tomorrow... I found this place; http://mrinjectoruk.co.uk/Bosch-0280150 ... 01472.aspx for spares. Do you have another set to go back in, or are you reconditioning them?

hmmm same here, no timer on mine, should there be? If not, do you have it wired up to the alarm? I have a Clifford alarm on the Mk1 Golf and the fitters wired up an output to the interior light, so that when it unlocks the light comes on. There is also a timed delay before the light goes off on exit.

Are you still having trouble with this? My VR spluttered and died whilst running outside my house this week. The engine has only done 500 miles since I rebuilt it so was thinking/hoping it was electrical rather than mechanical. The symptoms I then had were similar (clicking relay, flicking rev counter, turning but not starting) so I replaced relays 109 and 67, but still no joy. Gave the battery a charge (was down to 11.6V by this time) On refitting the battery noticed the positive terminal was loose due to being slightly out of shape (over compressed on the underside) so straightened it out by opening up the clamp with a screwdriver, problem solved. I think my faults were a combination of tarnishing on relay 67 pins and battery terminal connections. You may not have the same problem but I would double check battery,starter and earth connections.

If it's the same as the grease which came off my Skoda Moonroof when I dropped it in, it's Polydimethylsiloxane (silicone oil) based. Personally I would use Aircraft Silicone Grease, although not as a personal lubricant. http://www.jetlube.com/jetlube/uploads/ ... conedm.pdf It's lovely Stuff! Mine tube also happens to be out of date, so I just hope aviation standards are well in excess of corrado sunroof requirements.

This was fitted without adjustment, probably needs to come down 1mm on the offside when I get around to it. stromlaufplan_gamma4.pdfP1030182.JPG[/attachment:18fwngnn]Corrado92.pdfP1030183.JPG[/attachment:18fwngnn]climatronic wiring-Golf from May 01.pdfP1030186.JPG[/attachment:18fwngnn]2.8l 24v Climatronic system.pdfP1030187.JPG[/attachment:18fwngnn] P1030199.JPG[/attachment:18fwngnn]

I found a Skoda Octavia Estate Moonroof (I think the year was 1999) to be a perfect fit. Swapped the whole mech, rails and later style switch gear, £25 from the breakers :D

I'm just starting a engine rebuild on my ABV vr6, and thinking about some cams. Has anyone had good results with Kent cams in a VR6? Looks like a cheap option (exchange) Here's some data, how does this sound? Part No: VR602 Application: Sports Injection Power Band: 2000-6500 Cam Lift Inlet/Exhaust: .431" Valve Lift Inlet/Exhaust: .431" Duration Inlet/Exhaust: 264° Timing Figures: 22/62 62/22 Inlet Exhaust @ Full Lift: 110° V/Clearance Inlet/Exhaust .000"