science

Not mine... http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/VW-corrado-/131241429195?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item1e8e9948cb

The spirit of the forum is that knowledge and information should be shared and available for all. In the same vein I would like to offer parts I have designed and made but do not have the time to do so. Because it is so time consuming I don't think either Fla and daves16v are purely in this to make a quick buck. They have designed things they need and are prepared to make more to share with folks who don't have the time or skills/equipment to do so for themselves. In addition, Fla has been really courteous to daves16v and they seem to have sorted it out themselves. Neither of them has a monopoly and they can co-exist here quite happily. There are so many parts for the Corrado that are badly designed, obsolete and rusty and that having more suppliers for the parts we need and desire can only be a good thing. There is a common need for the rad bracket part as all the originals are corroded, and Fla and daves16v offer different alternatives. The altruistic nature of the forum should let everyone offer parts, not just the first person to say so. If people get upset by this maybe no one will be allowed to offer parts? That would be a shame. Don't forget some people give away parts, share their experiences and give away instructions they've put together themselves. Everyone should be allowed to contribute.

I'm thinking about doing this. What spec wire did you use? Did you reuse the old plug caps or get new ones?

Slightly off topic but one of these would work well as a replacement controller, with a tach and shift light to boot. http://www.auberins.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=5_21&products_id=422

I'm sure paypal would issue a refund if they didn't arrive. The system is completely biased in favour of the buyer. Unless you "send as gift".

Diagnostics; Black plug should be +12V and ground. Yellow plug is the (L data line) ABS ECU & Automatic trans ECU Blue plug is the (K data line) Engine ECU. Though I don't think you'll get much info out of the Engine ECU as two way communication isn't normally possible.

I think the MK2 golf cable may be usable? It has the same ends but I'm not sure on the length. You would have to swap the rubber bung over from yours. Maybe worth a punt if your stuck? http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/VW-GOLF-MK2-GTI-16V-ACCELERATOR-CABLE-THROTTLE-CABLE-C968-/200931330805?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&fits=Model%3AGolf&hash=item2ec870caf5 EDIT: Seems the carb version (part no.192721555) may be better at 1360mm, the 8V Gti is only 1084mm (192721555A). http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/MK2-GOLF-Accelerator-cable-MK2-Golf-Carb-models-84-92-manual-RHD-/390862665776?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item5b013af830

I thought he stopped doing them. Hope to be proven wrong though.

All UK VR6 Corrados will be CHN and have a 3.389 final drive as standard. Corrados in the US will have a 3.647 FD to make up for the fact they only got the 2.8 engine. You could get a 3.647 crown and pinion fitted when you get yours rebuilt or even a 3.944 for better acceleration and fun. :D

Your Corrado VR6 box will be CHN, the Golf VR6 box is CCM. Both are identical internally and have a 3.3 final drive. Gearboxes from a VR6 and a G60 are from the same "series", 02A, but a G60 will not fit the VR6 as the casing has a different bolt pattern where it meets the engine. This is mainly due to the angle of the engine as the 4 cylinder and 6 cylinder have a different alignment in the bay. The box on VR6OC has been rebuild with a 3.68 final drive from a G60 box which gives better acceleration but decreased top speed.

OK, just a couple of quick checks; Have you removed relay 109? Does your ECU have the immobiliser removed? Are fusebox pins 30 and 30b bridged? Is fuse 18 blown? Do you have have earth to brown wire in M/01? Do you have power while cranking to red/yellow wire in M/02?

Loose the OBD2 earth as long as there is nothing else connected to it (it probably just goes to the battery) and plug your original earth into Z2.

Seven? Hmmm -(F,G1,G2,S) that leaves; Data Line (Brown connector) 01/Yellow wire, 02/Grey/White wire Vehicle Speed Sender (Blue connector) Blue/White wire MFA MPG (Black connector) Violet/White wire AC (on) Switch (Yellow or Red in Fla's loom connector) 01/Green wire, 02/Blue/Red wire Aux Coolant Pump (Red connector) Red/Black wire Yellow temp sender pin 3 (White connector) Brown/Red wire Injector Power (BIG Yellow connector) Blue/Red wire Yup, the four main multi-plugs and seven others on the OBD2 engine loom. Did you unplug the rest of the fusebox or just the bare minimum? Yeah, I'm up here for a while, let me know if you need a hand with yours.

Yes, (Grey/White is the K Line, ECU Pin 43) Yellow wire, (L line, ECU Pin 21) is just for the OBD2 automatic ECU only. Yes. There are two ways to do it; 1)Plug, or extend if necessary, your OBD2 Grey/White wire to go straight into the block behind centre console. 2)Swap the connector for the 2 pin OBD1 brown one and use the existing OBD1 loom (which goes from the fuse box to the centre console anyway).

Any price on the grills? Link doesn't work for nonmembers.

>>If you have the wires from ECU pins 37&39 on your OBD2 Loom, just swap the connector from your OBD1 loom onto the wires in the OBD2 loom. >>If you don't have the wires from ECU pins 37&39 on your OBD2 Loom, de-pin the wires from the OBD1 ECU plug and incorporate them into the OBD2 loom. >>Yes they are redundant and No F/09 isn't used on a manual car and doesn't affect anything. >>You can bin the Black/White wire with the Yellow connector as it's still on the car and not in the OBD1 Engine loom that you've removed. >>[ATTACH=CONFIG]79175[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]79176[/ATTACH]

The connectors all have tabs which only fit the fuse box in the right location. Only 30 and 30b are bridged with the 4 terminal red busbar, (whether they are also bridged inside the fuse box, I don't know.) Z1&Z2 are elsewhere; [ATTACH=CONFIG]79169[/ATTACH] -Z1 Injector Power at the top of the image. -Z2 Battery Ground at the bottom of the image. The fusebox here is upside-down to its orientation in the car.

Connect to Corrado Brown Data Line Plug pin 02->ECU pin 43 Plug G2 Unknown, Where do they go? Edit: Extended Wires cut from Golf Fan Controller Plug Golf Fan Controller Plug. Black/White Wire from fusebox is Aux Coolant Pump Power Left to Right; Z2->Main Fusebox Ground 30->Main Fusebox Battery Power Z1->Injector Power TV13 junction box (vehicle speed sensor)->To ECU pin 65 TV6 junction box (x-over ignition live, fuse #4)->To Fan Control Module (Supplies Power to Aux Coolant Pump)

>All the info is in here; >http://the-corrado.net/showthread.php?t=87250&p=1031490#post1031490 >but it's hard to find so... >Pic 15 is plug G1 (12 pin connector), >Your Black wire which goes to Yellow/Green Is probably from G1/03 or G1/04 >If it's G1/03; >OBD1 Pin G1/03 should be Yellow/Blue goes to ECU pin 6 Fuel Pump Relay Turn-On >OBD2 Pin G1/03 should be Yellow/Blue goes to ECU pin 6 Fuel Pump Relay Turn-On >If it's G1/04; >OBD1 Pin G1/04 is Black goes to ECU pin 38 (Ignition Switch Start/Run Power) >OBD2 Pin G1/04 is Black and goes to coil pack pin 5 >You need to cut the immobiliser in somewhere else for OBD2 (I'm no alarm technician so don't quote me on these and check first) >maybe F/01 Red/Black to Starter Motor >or G1/10 Red/Blue goes to pin ECU pin 23 Fuse 15 Power (OBD2) >OBD1 G1/08 is Red/Yellow goes to lambda heater control relay pin 2 >OBD2 G1/08 is Red/White, Relay Not Used, Lambda power direct to Lamdba probe pin 1 >are there 2 connectors? >what are the wire colours? >it could be the AC (on) Switch, on my loom it was a yellow plug or, is this elsewhere on your OBD1 loom? >if it is the AC (on) switch then the wires are; >Connector pin 01/Green goes to ECU pin 37 Air Conditioning "On" Switch (At Compressor) Green >Connector pin 02/Blue/Red goes to ECU pin 39 Air Conditioning "On" Switch (Inside Cabin) Blue/Red >this is the same for OBD1 & OBD2 >in the above 2 pics you have extra wiring for the Park/Neutral switch and factory Alarm if fitted. >Your White connector is probably the F Plug (the only white 10 pin connector) which is the same on OBD1&2 but different on Manual or A/T as follows... >F/01 is; >Red/Black to starter motor pin 50, >or Red/Green to alarm module pin 5 >or Red to A/T park/neutral position switch pin 6 >or Red to ECU pin 7 > >F/03 is Blue to alternator pin D+ > >F/06 (OBD1) is; >Black (OBD1) to reverse light switch pin 2 >or Black (OBD1) to A/T Park/Neutral position relay pin 5 > >F/06 (OBD2) is; >Black/Red (OBD2) to reverse light switch pin 2 or Black (OBD2) to A/T Park/Neutral position relay pin 5 > >F/07 is; >Black/Blue to reverse switch pin 1 >or A/T park/neutral position relay pin 4 > >F/09 is Green/Red to A/T ECU pin 27 (rev counter feed) >OBD2 has fewer wires both to the fusebox and to the engine connector >The 4 pin plug connects to the OBD2 fan control module. >Black/White goes to fusebox (power for Aux Coolant pump) >Red/Black goes to Engine Connector T/42 pin 31 to Aux Coolant Pump >Brown/Red goes to Engine Connector T/42 pin 9 to Pin 3 of the yellow temperature sensor >Loose wire is on OBD1 only.

This thread may also be useful; http://the-corrado.net/showthread.php?t=52795

ADAPTING THE NEW HARNESS 1-Unwrap the OBD2 loom being especially careful where it branches off as there are thin wires that can accidentally be cut if using a knife. The sections of the loom which can stay wrapped are; The last 39cm nearest the ECU The last 58cm before the front engine harness connectors branches off by the starter motor. and if not replacing the aux pump wires, the last 47cm nearest the T/42 engine connector. Once unwrapped its easy to see the wires that do not connect to either F, G1, G2, ECU, or T/42. At the fuse box end, you should be able to identify the plugs needed (equivalent to the Corrado loom); (i) F plug should have 4 wires in it, the other end of which terminate near the starter motor. (ii) G1 & G2 cover feeds to ECU and Engine and Sensor return paths to dash. (iii) ECU and T/42 plug contain all the other wires needed to run the ECU and Engine. (iv) Data Line Grey/White wire to ECU pin 43 (v) Vehicle speed sensor (VSS) Blue/White wire to ECU pin 65 (vi) MFA MPG Violet/White wire to ECU pin 51 and if present; (vii) Injector Power Thick Blue/Red wire (viii) AC (On) Switch Green & Blue/Red wires to ECU pins 37 & 39 There was no Air Conditioning on my loom so ECU pins 37 & 39 we're not used [ATTACH=CONFIG]78952[/ATTACH] All other wires are not necessary or are contained in separate looms on the Corrado. In the Golf, VW chose to combine and wrap these other looms with the engine loom although they are not physically connected. 2-Remove all wiring from the loom that does not connect to plugs F, G1, G2, the ECU, or 42 Pin connector. If you are cutting wires to remove them, test fit and run the loom on the car first. There will be loads of extra wiring which isn't used. Most of it is the lighting circuits and radiator fan but it could also have indicators, washer jet heaters, headlight level adjusters, coolant level, battery strap, etc. You will probably find plugs A1,A2,C and an assortment of other plugs but as long as none of the wires go to the ECU or T/42 they can be removed. I also found it easier de-pin and label the wires from the plug F, as they would have become tangled while trying to remove unnecessary wiring. Plugs that have wires that terminate at the ECU can be saved and de-pinned if needed. On my Golf loom this consisted of a 3 pin black plug that had the MFA MPG Violet/White wire in pin 3 so I de-pinned the plug so I could remove the other two wires. I have a second Golf loom which has a 12 pin connector, with 3 wires going to the ECU The 12 pin connector listed as central locking control unit; Pinout for the one I have is (need to check later) something like; 1 Grey/Green + Green/Blue 2 Not Used 3 Black 4 Red/Black 5 Black/Yellow 6 Not Used 7 Green/Red + Green/Brown 8 Yellow/Red + Green/Grey 9 Blue/Yellow 10 Not Used 11 Brown/Black 12 Black/Red ECU Pins 37&39 for air con and pin 54 for ECU power connect here but I'm not sure where just yet I don't have the loom to hand. 3-Fit new or extend wiring to Aux pump and Yellow temp sensor, pins 9 and 31 on T/42 or replace with your old Corrado wiring. [ATTACH=CONFIG]78953[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]78954[/ATTACH] 4-If your new loom does not have outside temp sensor, use the one from your Corrado wiring or make new one connect it to; G1/02 Brown/White - mfa outside temp sensor pin 1 and G2/02 White/Red - mfa outside temp sensor pin 2 5- Reshape new loom working back from the Ecu and engine T/42 connector using your measurements or following the diagram above. Use insulating tape to keep the shape. Test fit on the car or compare to your old loom if your are unsure of the measurements. Do not untwist the Brown and Blue MAF wires. 6-Run a new Lambda power wire if needed. 7-Replace fusebox bulkhead grommet onto new loom. (Thin end first, big end nearest fusebox connectors) 8-Terminals and connectors at the fusebox end that are missing from the new loom can be replaced with the Corrado ones. Brown Data Link Connector will need to be swapped Red male JPT from the Aux Coolant Pump White female spade cover from the yellow temperature sensor pin 3 MPG plug with the Male JPT tab will need swapping from the Black 3 pin plug to the Black 1 pin plug. 9-On my loom the ECU(pin1) and Engine bay loom(T42 pin 36) are earths which have ring terminals near the battery these will need to be connected onto the battery clamp when fitting back on the car. 10-Once your are happy with the shape of the loom wrap in fleece/fabric or self-amalgamating tape. I used a combination of Coroplast fleece tape with self amalgamating tape at wire terminations to stop it from coming unraveled. 11-Trim wires and re-terminate wires which are too long to the correct length. 12-Re-Fit the adapted loom to car, and connect the injector power wire, thick Red/Blue with the Yellow connector to Z1, Remove Relay 109 and it should start.

OK, I've just completed this swap and can see that its easy to get stuck, you should read the following guide before proceeding; http://the-corrado.net/showthread.php?t=54148 and further reading available at; http://www.corrado-club.ca/forum/viewtopic.php?t=5880 http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?3934082 http://mk2vr6.com/board/viewtopic.php?f=12&t=7831 The purpose of this guide is to supplement the previous guide only in adapting the harness from an OBD2 Golf to fit the Corrado as close to the factory look as possible. I've had to do this away from the car hence the method, measurements and notes below. I hope some of the information is of use if you are undertaking this swap. I used a manual gearbox '95 Golf loom although other OBD2 looms will be different if they are from another model car or have an auto box and other auxiliary wiring. Check your ECU part numbers here; http://www.corrado-club.ca/tech/vwecucodes.htm Anything Bosch Motronic 3.81 is OBD2. Use or print off these very useful links for reference; http://www.a2resource.com/electrical/CE2.html http://www.a2resource.com/electrical/management/motronicvr6aba.html http://www.clubgti.com/showthread.php?219775-Fusebox-FAQ Things to consider; TOOLS & TERMINALS; It is possible to adapt the harness without cutting any wires if you use the de-pinning tools for Junior Power Timer connectors. If you intend to cut the redundant parts away from the harness, it's best to performing a trial run and make sure the car runs with the OBD2 loom before cutting. I used the LASER 4328 Terminal Tool Set For Renault Citroën & More... for around £40. It covers Micro Timer, Junior power timer, Power timer and single spade plug covers. Plus 3 others types I've not used. I've tried loads of other terminal tools, even tried making my own, but this only kit to work reliably. You can get the connections used in the fuse box from here; http://www.polevolt.co.uk/acatalog/Terminals_for_Special_Applications.html or here; http://uk.rs-online.com/web/c/connectors/pcb-connectors/pcb-connector-contacts/?searchTerm=junior+power+timer or of course eBay. Although you may need “Uninsulated open barrel F crimp ratchet crimping pliers” (ebay) Terminals used were; Micro Timer II socket (female) Junior Power Timer Tab (male)(there are two types, use the type which looks like a box at the wire end) Junior Power Timer Socket (female) Power Timer Socket (female) 6.3mm Female Spade I also printed off a list of terminals (G1/01,G1/02,....ect) and used 6mm clear heat shrink to label any de-pinned wires I though I might loose track off or use pen and masking tape for a less permanent label. LOOM FITMENT; The Golf Loom is a slightly different shape to the Corrado if you want it to fit properly some wires will need to be shortened at the MAF, Carbon Canister valve, Lambda, Rear Knock Sensor and at the fusebox end. Make sure you have a terminal removal & a crimping tool and some Junior Power Timer & Standard Timer connectors. If you choose not to do this there will be excess loom particularly around the ECU. AUX COOLANT PUMP; In the Corrado Loom the Aux Coolant Pump runs through the 42 pin Engine Connector (T/42) on pin 31, then to the fusebox where it connects to wires leading to the Fan Control Module. With the OBD2 Loom it runs straight (through pin 31 on T/42) to the Fan Control Module and is therefore too short. The same is true for the trigger wire from Pin 3 of the yellow temperature sensor for the fans and aux coolant pump after run on pin 9 on T/42. These two wires from T/42 will either need to be swapped from the Corrado loom, extended or replaced to reach the fusebox. To replace from T/42 to fusebox you will need; 2x Micro Timer socket terminals for the T/42 connector 1x JPT tab (male) terminal for the Red/Black at the fusebox 1x 6.3mm Female Spade for the Brown/Red at the fusebox and 2.12m of Brown/Red and 2.12m of Red/black 0.5mm thinwall cable. Alternatively you could transfer the Fan Control Module and wiring from the Golf Loom if you have it. This is what I intended but the Golf loom only had a 2 speed fan controller not the 3 speed one like Corrado loom does. Otherwise the Fan controller loom takes a live feed from A1/05 for the fan thermoswitch and a couple of earth wires and a battery live connection. MFA AMBIENT AIR TEMPERATURE SENSOR; Some OBD2 looms don't have this. If so either keep this section of your OBD1 loom or make a new one. 1x 2way Female JPT Housing 4x Junior Power Timer Socket (2 for fusebox, 2 for JPT housing) 2.10m of Brown/White & 2.10m White/Red 0.5mm thinwall. AIR CONDITIONING (ON) SWITCH; Some OBD2 looms don't have this. If so either keep this section of your OBD1 loom or make a new one. 2x Micro Timer Socket terminals 2m of Green & 2m Blue/Red 1mm thinwall LAMBDA POWER WIRE; On the Corrado, this runs through a relay (Type 53), but with OBD2 it runs straight from G1/08 which on my new loom was shorter, so I replaced it with; 2x Junior Power Timer Socket 1.7m of Red/White 1mm thinwall CHECK BOTH LOOMS; Before starting it's best to check both looms. I've made a spreadsheet from the links above to compare the Corrado and Golf Main wiring plugs, for the conversion we are concerned with Plugs F,G1,G2 and S. [ATTACH]78936[/ATTACH] The other wires to identify on the OBD2 loom are; Data Line Grey/White wire from ECU pin 43 Vehicle speed sensor (VSS) Blue/White wire from ECU pin 65 MFA MPG Violet/White wire from ECU pin 51 Injector Power (Yellow Plug) thick Red/Blue wire and if present; AC (On) Switch Green & Blue/Red wires from ECU pins 37 & 39 If you have all the necessary wires in the right place and the loom does not appear to be damaged, continue... 1-REMOVING THE OLD HARNESS; Starting at the fusebox unplug the following (the two yellow plugs may not be connected); Fuse Box Connectors with Female Junior power timer connectors unless stated; F – (White Plug) 10 Pin- Engine Harness Near Gearbox G1 - (White Plug) 12 Pin- Engine Harness Engine Sensors G2 - (White Plug) 12 Pin- Engine Harness Engine Sensors S- (White Plug) 5 Pin- Wiper Motor Harness Lambda Relay 4 Pin Female Spade Connectors Data Line (Brown Plug) 2 Pin- Data Line Yellow & Grey/White wires Vehicle speed sensor (VSS) (Blue Plug)1 Pin- Blue/White wire MFA MPG (Black Plug) 1 Pin- Violet/White wire AC (on) Switch (Yellow Plug) 2 Pin Male JPT-Green & Blue/Red wires Z- (Red Plug) 1 Pin Red/Yellow wire Aux Coolant pump (Red Plug) 1 Pin Male JPT- Red/Black wire Yellow Temp Pin 3 (White Plug) 1 Pin Female Spade Connector – Brown/Red wire (Yellow Plug) 1 Pin- Yellow/Black wire not used, ends in a un-terminated wire near starter. [ATTACH=CONFIG]78946[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]78947[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]78948[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]78949[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]78950[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]78937[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]78938[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]78939[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]78940[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]78941[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]78942[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]78943[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]78944[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]78945[/ATTACH] Some of the connectors will be needed for the OBD2 loom. [ATTACH=CONFIG]78933[/ATTACH] 2-ENGINE BAY Working you way around the engine bay, unplug; The wiper harness connected at the wiper motor and push out the grommet, save this and the grommet its going back in later. Lambda 4 Pin Connector Rear Knock Sensor 3 Pin Connector MAF sensor 4/5 Pin connector Carbon canister valve 2 Pin Ambient air temp sensor 2 Pin, keep this if your new loom doesn't have one. 68 Pin ECU plug 42 Pin Engine Twist Lock connector Starter 1 Pin Red/Black Front Knock Sensor 3 Pin Crank Position Sensor ;3 Pin Alternator exciter 1 Pin Blue Wire Reverse Switch 2 Pin 3-GROMMETS If you de-pin the larger fusebox connectors (F,G1,G2,S) you can use the Corrado bulkhead grommet, the Golf grommet is too big. If you use the Golf wiper loom note the wire colours are different but the connections remain the same. Also keep the small grommet on the wiper motor harness. The ECU Grommet is not so easy, I built up some self amalgamating tape to fit the hole, otherwise find a replacement 50mm grommet or cut and glue the old grommet onto the new loom. On the Corrado Loom there is a grommet on the T/42 connector this won't be on the new loom. If you wanted to use one the part numbers are 1H0971840A for the grommet & 1H0973132A for the retaining ring but it would require all terminals to be removed from T/42 4-CORRADO LOOM DIMENSIONS If you want the new loom to fit the same, you can measure up the old loom; or use the diagram below. FUSEBOX CONNECTORS | | | 0.4m | | | BULKHEAD GROMMET | | | 0.26m | | | |----0.97m----|---0.15m----[ LAMBDA SENSOR ] | | | |----0.17m----[ REAR KNOCK SENSOR ] (0m) | | |----0.97m----|----0.10m----[ MAF ] | | | |----0.25m----[ CARBON CANISTER VALVE ] | 0.60m | | | |----0.22m----I ECU GROMMET I----0.17m---[ ECU PLUG ] | | | 0.48m | | | |----0.47m----[ ENGINE TWIST CONNECTOR ] | | | |----0.58m----|----0.14m----[ STARTER ] | |----0.15m----[ ALTERNATOR EXCITER ] | |----0.17m----[ FRONT KNOCK SENSOR ] | |----0.17m----[ REVERSE SWITCH ] | |----0.18m----[ CRANK POSITION SENSOR ]

Thanks

I never new I needed one until now! Anyone got the part number?

As GusPW said, it's just a heater element we don't have in the UK. Have you checked the plugs are the right way round... http://the-corrado.net/showthread.php?t=40560