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science

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Everything posted by science

  1. Sounds like its from vehicle speed sensor connector block. The 4 way block on top of the fuse box distributes the VSS feed, and is normally full, one of the plugs has an extension, I think this is your plug.
  2. Nice work! Manifold and rocker look smoooooth, which paint did you use?
  3. I've got one of these had it ceramic coated before fitting and IMHO; Good points; Midrange and top end improved, Better throttle response, Cheap, Looks good. Bad points Cat pipe needed modifying to allow room for the two bolts from the manifold, Needed heat resistant silicone to seal the flange properly, Doesn't allow fitness of original heat shield (although I think the design could have changed), Reduces the VR6 warble sound.
  4. SNR and SKF should be the same quality. The two companies formed a partnership to share the same technologies. Given the choice I would buy SKF, but the SNR bearings I've seen are fine also. Never heard of ORBIS.
  5. Useful guide at; http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?3242686-DIY-Rear-Beam-Bushings-Replacement-with-OE-Bushings
  6. The B9007 & B9008 are, IMHO, the best driving roads bar none. Well worth doing a loop up round Aberdeen.
  7. So, can anyone confirm the lead lengths are; Coilpack; 860mm cylinder 1 740MM cylinder 2 760MM cylinder 3 580MM cylinder 4 620MM cylinder 5 440MM cylinder 6
  8. Nice work! I'm in for one, original colours. Tell me more about the headlight switch. Mine is a '93 original. Is this new or do you mean the new Chinese Jetta ones?
  9. Some info that might help; http://www.lwright.pwp.blueyonder.co.uk/images/VR/golfmk3VR6OBD2.pdf So coolant pump (v50) has Red/Black and Brown/Green wiring. and http://www.lwright.pwp.blueyonder.co.uk/images/VR/odb2engineloomdiagram1.pdf http://www.lwright.pwp.blueyonder.co.uk/images/VR/odb2engineloomdescription.pdf and http://www.lwright.pwp.blueyonder.co.uk/images/VR/odb2injectionloomdiagram.pdf http://www.lwright.pwp.blueyonder.co.uk/images/VR/odb2injectionloomdescription.pdf
  10. I changed the outer rod ends when the hubs were off the car. Not the right way to do it as you can't get good leverage and they were seized solid, took two massive stillsons wrenches to get them off. Better to split them from the locking nut first. I replaced them with stainless.
  11. If you have a list of the wire colours and the year the golf loom is from, I could look up the info you need. Is this for a corrado obd2 conversion? Are they all 2 pin plugs except no.4, 1 pin and no. 7 4 pin? I think; no. 1 may be the wiper motor plug?
  12. The pigtail is from an audi, connects to an ignition igniter control unit, 4A0905351, also see post #14. Found some useful info for those trying this from the used approach. Part Numbers; * BOSCH: 0221503002 * FERRARI: 165854 * VAUXHALL/OPEL: 1208068 * VAUXHALL/OPEL: 90358386 * VAUXHALL/OPEL: 90444184 * SAAB: 47 70 046 * SCANIA: 4770046 * TOYOTA: 90080? 19005? * Opel - VECTRA A - 2.5 V6 - 1993-1995 - 170hp - 2498cc * Opel - VECTRA A Hatchback - 2.5 V6 - 1993-1995 - 170hp - 2498cc * Opel - OMEGA B - 2.5 V6 - 1994-2000 - 170hp - 2498cc * Opel - OMEGA B - 3.0 V6 - 1994-2001 - 211hp - 2962cc * Opel - OMEGA B Estate - 2.5 V6 - 1994-2000 - 170hp - 2498cc * Opel - OMEGA B Estate - 3.0 V6 - 1994-2001 - 211hp - 2962cc * Opel - CALIBRA A - 2.5 i V6 - 1993-1997 - 170hp - 2498cc * Saab - 900 Mk II - 2.5 -24 V6 - 1993-1998 - 170hp - 2498cc * Saab - 900 Mk II Convertible - 2.5 -24 V6 - 1993-1998 - 170hp - 2498cc * Saab - 900 Mk II Coupe - 2.5 -24 V6 - 1993-1998 - 170hp - 2498cc * Vauxhall - CAVALIER Mk III - 2.5 V6 - 1993-1995 - 170hp - 2498cc * Vauxhall - CAVALIER Mk III Hatchback - 2.5 V6 - 1993-1995 - 170hp - 2498cc * Vauxhall - OMEGA - 2.5 V6 - 1994-2000 - 170hp - 2498cc * Vauxhall - OMEGA - 3.0 V6 - 1994 - 211hp - 2962cc * Vauxhall - OMEGA Estate - 2.5 V6 - 1994-2000 - 170hp - 2498cc * Vauxhall - OMEGA Estate - 3.0 V6 - 1994 - 211hp - 2962cc * Vauxhall - CALIBRA - 2.5 i V6 - 1993-1997 - 170hp - 2498cc
  13. http://www.carparts4less.co.uk/cp4l/c/Volkswagen_Corrado_2.9_1993/p/car-parts/car-body-parts-and-car-exhaust/wipers/car-washer-system/?868440110&1&e77eaf28ca534db577c099bcb1761bdd7646e6d8&000598
  14. science

    VAG banger.

    Cheers guys, i will check out Scottish Vag. I'm living up here for a few months at least. I quite like the idea of a 1.8T, but I fear the engine will want to find its way into my Mk 1 Golf.
  15. science

    VAG banger.

    Wanted any VAG group/Skoda/Seat banger for cheap runabout while the Corrado is off the road. Should have 6 months min ticket left and be under £1000 in the Scotland- Glasgow area. Cheers.
  16. Mk1 Skoda Octavian Estate moonroof fits perfectly. Edit: No mods or adjustment.
  17. Green with Red/Blue temp would be sweeeeeeeet! Yes please!
  18. There is a copper spray you can use to help seal MLS gaskets, some folks in the states swear but it but its rare to see over here.
  19. I think the reason not to skim is that if to much material gets taken off if increases the risk valve piston collision if your timing is slightly out. There was a guy on eBay (doctor_car) selling the metal HG for around £26 you just have to search for the Elring part number (401.820) or you can get a Victor Reinz one delivered from the states for £47 for taxes. Some people relocate the the temperature sensor to the air box to run the 1.8T sensor.
  20. That seems like a good price for the work, I would avoid having the head skimmed if you can though. The pistons look pretty normal to me. I would spend a good amount of time making sure the mating surface on the block is clean and flat, it's quite likely to need a metal blade scraper or Stanley blade to remove the residue and corrosion, just don't scratch it. I've used carplan "get your gasket off spray" from Euro Car Parts to help do this as it also removes carbon deposits but it seems expensive these days.
  21. IMHO unless your going to strip the engine I wouldn't use scotch-brite, wire wool or a steel wire brush just in case bits break off and get missed with the compressed air. I have used a brass brush to good effect instead which is softer and easier to spot any bits that have broken off.
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