VW_OwneR_85

its up to you both ways will achieve the same goal, i guess it would be neater splicing into the earth wire on that loom rather then running a wire off,

surely theres someone here with deep pockets and the itch to build a corrado 3.6 ?? anyone ? http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Audi-Q7-3-6-FSI-VW-Touareg-V6-3-6-FSI-Motor-BHK-280-PS-Moteur-Engine-/191563376876?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_77&hash=item2c9a1128ec

really good price, 264.00 according to the converter, then theres shipping!! weren't LWS making some?

earth them to the shell , i ended up moving mine to the boot and used the threaded stud from rear light..

i think so, im judging this by euro car parts specifications for 2003 golf 2.8 {which is the 24v v6 4motion} PAS pump @ 90bar and the pas pump on there site for the rado vr6 is the same one @ 90bar , i pulled my rado pump apart to see what it looks like and its not what i expected at all! very mechanical!, i was expecting it to look like a water pump lol, not much in the way of rubber seals either

Nice! iv felt your pain with grinding!

cheers, haha this feels gash but i just painted over them , you can see in the pic the outlines are still there so it doesnt look bad in that respect, i guess i could scratch off the paint carefully but in all honesty im not to bothered, just looking inside with the headliner and everything mostly fitted is a huge improvement, and im not sure how long that paint will hold up tbh + i dont think theres a much better way of doing them, i used an adhesion promoter for painting plastics over a keyed clean surface other then that thats as good as i can go, maybe wrapping them would of been a better option ? well see :)

So interiors really close to being complete headliner and these bits below are fitted just not got the pics yet, sprayed all the grey plastics black - keyed everything with green scotch pad -plastic primer/adhesion promoter - satin black , nothing special but looks a hell of alot better! Noticed that my clutch slave cylinder hose finally gave up and seeing as i ordered the parts for it some time last year or year before its a bit rude not to fit it! also swapped over my PAS pump from the 12v vr6 to the 24v one that came with the engine, iv always used a syringe to remove fluids from the reservoirs but the seals on them always seem to swell up after a awhile, so after abit of thinking i came up with this! as i have plenty of half used silicone tubes at hand! works amazing and hasnt swollen up yet! even if it does its easy to replace! now the fittings on this are female M12X1 then into the slave its Male M12x1 or just go straight from the master cylinder to the slave cylinder both male M12X1 , think it was AN-3 size tube i used? ptfe lined 1m length, ever since the conversion my PAS has been terrible , it originally had red fluid in it until i filled it with green at the time of the conversion , tried using lucas leak stop, seem to help abit , so now iv drained it and fitted the 24v pump and re filled with vw green again, iv also noticed a small kink in the pas connection on the banjo to the pump! so maybe that is causing my pas problems?, we shall see 24v on the right , also on euro car parts site- 2003 2.8 golf has the same P/N as the rado vr6 pas pump!

all comes down to personal choice at the end of the day, Im not keen on seats like that ^, so my vote goes for TT seats for there oem looks and price tag and they fit real good too, but its your car ;)

yea i thought about pressure differences but surely cant be much in it as its still a pump driven by RPM? but then again its all about the internal design of it, iv done abit more digging and quite a few people have fitted mk4 pumps with there mk2 1.8t swaps with no ill effects looking on euro car parts at vr6 corrado pump and the pump from 2002 golf 2.8 4motion they have the same part number and pump pressure {90bar} rado =http://www.eurocarparts.com/ecp/c/Volkswagen_Corrado_2.9_1993/p/car-parts/suspension-and-steering/steering/power-steering-pump/?619440181&1&89eacc0c2caa85823c39a9ce70fc091b3412c586&000608 mk4 http://www.eurocarparts.com/ecp/c/Volkswagen_Golf_2.8_2003/p/car-parts/suspension-and-steering/steering/power-steering-pump/?619440181&1&a3d2ae607a39162d46bba349e90131a6e7d5aace&000608

lol when you say "youre using one" you are infact using the vehicle and its not just sat in the shed with that pump fitted, iv got the choice of two pumps to fit, one that came with my 24v 2.8 and one from a mk3 vr6 , kinda like the idea of fitting the 24v one as i recon it will be more robust!

haha awesome! cheers :)

guys is there any reason why the 24v power steering pump cant be used with our steering setup?

with these engine swaps its not about how hard/easy it is , its about how much your wiling to put in to it or to pay someone else to do it for you, i suggest you spend an evening looking through other peoples build threads and seeing whats involved, 1.8t swaps and 24v swaps have been done quite alot into mk2 golfs and rados so theres plenty of info about and theres all ways more then one way to do the swap, with the VR6 02a tranny only the 6 cylinder vr6 {2.8 3.2 3.6 }engines will bolt up to it, if you wanted to do a 1.8t swap then you would need the 4 cylinder 02a tranny

congrats!! Looks awesome!

really couldnt tell you tbh, its not something iv looked at. theres a couple of images of the TT base via google which might give you a rough idea of how it all is,

Haha im with wayne - it doesnt end!! but seriously idd say tackle these things 1 at a time and they will soon get done, everything you mentioned apart from the head gasket can easily be done DIY by someone with little to no mechanical experience , theres so many diy guides on the internet now aswell which makes it easy, just read up, you could even print the pages off,these jobs just require basic tools which if you need to buy them buy them as they will pay for themselves, can even think of them as "freebies" once the job is done :) just some examples , theres tons out there

thats good^! really like how he ends up using oem key fob casing, looking back i wish i had put mine in the boot and not behind the door card where i cant get easy access to it should i need it..

cheers, yea that box section just slides in the rado runners until it hits the notch cut outs {you can see them in the pic}, its the two front bolts that hold it in place to stop the whole seat from moving , the seat itself can still slide back and forth on the tt runners as it should once its all bolted down. iv seen a pic of a different setup, i think it was in a mk1 golf? where it uses the TT floor mounts i guess there just nuts welded into the floor itself but to do that on the rado that cross member would have to go and i dont think thats something you can just chop out

had oil cooler failure on my old audi 1.8t and tested the cooler exactly the same way, it was only a pin hole so small that coolant couldnt pass into the engine but oil under pressure could only go one way and thats into the cooling system ,the symptoms were {wait for it !! lol} coolant tank full of oil! your need some of this stuff either way http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/forte-cooling-system-bio-degreaser-treatment-new-/171746562186?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&hash=item27fce4908a

i installed "right click" remote kit, all i had to do was tap into the wires behind rear drivers side door card they are all there, i used a diy guide i found vw vortex site to locate the wires, FYI iv only wired it in to lock and unlock and it was a case of connecting it to live,earth and i belive two more wires one that locks and one that unlocks, cant remember exactly but you dont need to remove any door actuators or vacuum system with this kit, have a search on vortex site and you should see the page ,

cheers bud, i was so close to having faux leather seat covers made for my cloth seats for the same price, but they would of never looked or felt right, luckily at the time i spotted a rado on ebay with tt seats fitted so being a cheeky git i messaged the seller about them and he said they were good for the height , so seat cover plan was aborted! oh another issue i need to sort out in the not so distant future ,which im hoping someone can help with is the power steering fluid, iv read conflicting comments about red dexron 2 and the green vw fluid! one comment said rados use both and depends on the chassis number to which one you need! but then in the user manual and bentley manual it says to use g0002 which is the green stuff! when i originally drained it down for my 24v swap it was red {also has a red fluid cap} so thinking i was doing it good and reading most comments on here about only using the green stuff i refilled and flushed it with the green stuff! it worked fine up until the engine/fluid is warmed up {i guess it thins out abit?} then the pump makes noise on doing 3point turns, iv brought another vr6 pump so i could whack that on or just drain and fill with dexron 2? as that is what i seemed to originally have and worked with no noise or effort,

cheers guys, TT seats have a sprung base using a gas strut for height adjustment which tbh none of use will ever use , slammed low is perfect! you also have the option to wire it in for a warm backside! which i might do in the future, you could also put it in lower, but you would have to rebate that front cross member so the tt runners are sunk into it but thats extra work, only downside is they are a tadd heavier then my old cloth ones not sure what the weight difference is between rado heated leather so might not be much in that respect?, i guess you could remove the gas strut and some other gubbins, think my camera lense is dirty, as this door card doesnt have dirty great big circles on it lol thanks to Rams for waiting a couple of weeks so i could purchase these, also came with speakers Bargain! :) head liners almost ready! its been half finished now for almost a year!! heres how the sunroof panel looks, trimmed faux leather and dyed the seal black! really chuffed with how its come out, head liner matchs that, will be spraying the plastics satin black! Also noticed from the previous page about my throttle pedal issue i had, i wasnt aware that i needed to wire in the mk4 clutch and brake switch to ecu! everything is now spot on including vss so im not limited with the revs, as a precaution i also re routed the throttle pedal wires, basically cut them off near ecu plug and joined on new ones direct from ecu plug to the pedal plug so i know all wires are 100%,

Right! This year so far hasnt been pleasant in regards to my rado :( iv literally had to redo the roof/windscreen, welding in new sections in either corner of the windscreen as the metal was to far gone the first time, it blistered my paint where the rust returned! {took 2 years to start bubbling up} So dont ever use rust converters EVER! they dont work! all traces of rust must be ground/sanded out completely and NOT wire wheeled/brushed, didnt take any pics of that work as i wasnt in the best of moods, i just got on with it, i cant take credit for the colour and clear coat which im abit gutted about tbh as i cant say its all my work! Any way its getting there and i can now move on with things that i want! , picked up leather stuffs last year inc Audi tt seats! got them fitted in today , werent that bad to fit, followed the wiki guide on here, added a few things different, its worked out great, they are a little higher but not much 15mm? they slide effortlessly,feel nice and the best bit is the price!! £140! considering how hard it is to find rado front leather seats which wont need repairing at the cost of X , i think TT seats are an awesome alternative! heres a few pics so you guys can see whats up with fitting them, {20mm box section}, , the plates that slide in the runners need to be nice and tight! so not to move up or down potentially makeing noise, you also need to cut out the original front mounting point on that cross memeber, the front tt mounting points are angled 45, hammer or press them flat, i then welded them to add strength , ah crap! seem to have forgotten to take pics at the right times! my bad! you also need to add spacer blocks to the rear box section {10mm} to level off with the front cross member, So once that rear box section is made up you can slap in the seat and mark the front holes to be drilled on the cross member and poke the bolts up through {which i welded to stop from spinning}, now the hole nearest the gear stick isnt level its lower then the rest and crooked at a funny angle , so i held the bolt vertical as best i could with a magnet and tac'd it , then went to town with the welder so its got a nice bead around out, then added a nut which brings to smack bang on level topped off with a nice washer! found out why my hand brake was a tad crooked hammerd it flat and added some weld, almost got the interior back, just need to finish off headliner and fit rear seats and front door cards ,

only number i can find on it is 536853829 , tah