VW_OwneR_85

I find you can get two different noises from the vr6 Induction & exhaust , if you want sound from the exhaust {on idle and cruzing around } then you need to change the exhaust to something like Miltek etc etc , if you want an awesome sound under throttle {induction}then just change the standard airbox to a K&N style air filter or do like some people have and drill the airbox but theres no going back if you do! change to a k&n style filter as this is easy and cheap but the sound under throttle is very addictive!! I also found with a k&n style filter along with a performance exhaust that you don't really get that awesome induction sound you do with just a filter , think the induction sound just gets blurred but that could just be me? , try just a filter first and see what you think..

heater matrix and oil cooler might also be on its way to Death so bare that in mind for preventative maintenance, Might be cheaper and easier to source another motor 2nd hand and have the nearest garage swap them over? or if you have a drive and some tools + engine crane you could do it over a weekend but then you also enter the realm of "whilst the engines out what should I replace?"

the amount of rust coming from the expansion tank in one of your pics isn't a good sign, corrosion is a killer!!

flywheel related?

pretty sure you can get paint stripper that's designed for use on plastics cant imagine it to be fast working though, not sure what regular paint strippers like against plastic but I recon if you used it and washed it off straight after you see it softening the paint I don't think it would do any harm to the plastic, also heard of people making a bath of cheap brake fluid and letting it soak for a couple of days but not sure with a bumper, maybe put the bumper in a tightly wrapped plastic bag full of fluid? dunno

what about the fluid? when I swapped out my engine I replaced the pas fluid for genuine vag green fluid, all seemed fine until the engine got up to temp at this point the pas fluid also heats up and thins out , then the pas pump whined like a bitch on 3 point turns and full lock, I solved this problem by using lucas power steering leak stop, pas still doesn't feel like as soft as it once was but doesn't whine anymore...

sorry if iv missed something but whats your reasons for wanting an abf in your corrado? I had one in a mk2 golf that I swapped it was really good on fuel but its some what lacking in the power department,

what have you tried so far to resolve your problem? , I would look into Spark plug leads ,MAF sensor and check the air intake hose for splits ,

seeing as you have access to vagcom get it on vagcom again and check out what coolant temp reading its getting ,

don't think so , my corrado runs a 24v spliced loom and I don't remember the coolant level sensor wiring being involved with that side of things, trace both wires back as far as you can to see if theres any breaks/damage anywhere,

got this problem with my audi a4 1.8t , weirdly enough the light doesn't flash with the sensor unplugged so its staying that way.

removing the front end would seem like a huge task but its not, it takes less then 20 minutes to do, the only PITA part about it imo is the bonnet cable but you could leave that connected I guess and swing it to the side still attached to the slam panel,

as above in regards to Heat exchanger/oil cooler failure, I recently brought a cheap audi a4 1.8t with oil cooler failure, not a single trace of coolant in the engine/oil/sump but the cooling system was over flowing with engine oil, I was certain it was oil cooler as the car still drove fine and because engine oil was clean , removed oil cooler and pressurised the coolant pipes on the cooler via air compressor in a bucket of water and tiny bubbles started appearing from the oil section, so that just confirmed it for me that oil is passing through into my cooling system ... forte bio degreaser.. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Forte-Car-Bio-Cooling-Coolant-System-Degreaser-400ml-/140555308056?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item20b9bfcc18

, pin 37 deffo green/brown goes to T10/9 then straight down to T17a4 {17pin connector behind center dash panel} then straight to J255 which on mine is climatronic control unit , {there probably the same thing its just your version of wiring diagram is missing the word "climatronic" ? really not sure on why pin 81 stops dead at the plug, its like if the diagrams missing something..

had a butchers at the wiring diagram for my BDE and cant really make out what T121/81 does from it, {tach signal for 1.8t's} , I can confirm that the 1.8t's T121/81 has the same colour combination green/red and goes to the same plug T10/2 so must be the same for mine, now T121/37 its a green/brown and goes to J225 {climatronic control unit} so again not sure but it does match the colour combinations given for tach signal of that random search , seems weird why a tach signal would be used with climate control?? am I missing something ?

yep its the speedo sensor on gearbox, you don't need to add the sensor itself but you need to add a vss wire to the ecu so the ecu knows when you are moving or stationary, I belive that fusebox plug W-1 is the vss output from the clocks the input to the clocks would from the wire off the gearbox vss itself also im pretty sure I remember someone just spliced straight off of the sensor wire to ecu with no problems,

that's interesting, i'll have a butchers and check pin 81 with my BDE wiring diagram later on to confirm but pin 81 is what there using and everything else for the 1.8t's has been right but it could be a mild difference between 1.8t/2.8/3.2 ? either that or im posting up duff info, i just googled VW pin 37 and then it came to someone wanting a mk4 r32 pin out Speed signal T121/54 -blue/white wire Tacho signal T121/37 - green/brown so i guess im posting up duff info :( soorayyy

according to the club gti guide rev signal for the 1.8t's is on pin 81, but anyone doing this should cross reference with a wiring diagram specifically for there engine but im pretty sure they are the same as 24v's , T10 Orange pin 1 - grey/white to ecu T121/43 (229) ( diagnostics K diag port) pin 2 - green/red to ecu T121/81 (Tach signal from ecu to G1 pin 12) pin 6 - blue/white ecu T121/54 to speed signal in dash wiring (Hall speed sensor on clocks W pin 1) in regards to needle jumping , mine doesn't do it badly , its not 100% stable but I can deffo live with it ,

the rev signal on the BHE is pin 54? , Just to be safe double check this as on my 2.8 BDE and the 1.8T's PIN 54 is VSS input to ecu from fusebox, myself and others have used pin 54 to W-1 with no proplems , leaving this out limited my engine to 4.5k revs.. Good job J.C with the MPG signal looks like ill be opening my harness again to add this :(

you would remove the oil pressure switch and connect a pressure gauge to see whats up, if the sensors working as it should be then yea that means the pressure hasn't dropped below 1.8 whilst driving and that's good, the way I see the alarm sender now is its just to warn you whilst driving as you might not suddenly notice a flashing light until its too late also it would be very annoying to hear the alarm sound every time you switch IGN to ON until the engine is started, oil temp doesn't register on mine until it gets to/past 50 degrees so maybe your journey wasn't long enough to get past 50degrees or you may have removed the oil temp sender instead of the pressure sender, check them again and check what colour wires are going to them,

my bad , when I did my senders and fitted a vdo twin pole sender I was under the assumption that the alarm was triggerd due to high pressure due to the wiring for it being labelled as "high pressure" here check it out , fusebox plug G2/10 yellow wire http://www.a2resource.com/electrical/CE2.html right just looked into it via vr6 manual , the alarm is tripped if the engine speed is above 2150 rpm and pressure drops below 1.8bar , its a higher pressure then that of the other sender so Im guessing that's why it says "high pressure". just the light flashs when oil pressure drops below 0.3bar regardless of engine being at any rpm

you got two sensors on the filter housing , one switchs on at high pressure and one switchs on at low pressure , its the high pressure one that sounds the alarm and flash's on dash as mine did that when the wire popped off the sensor ages ago, the light on the dash will just flash {no alarm sound} when the low oil pressure sendor gets tripped, the oil pick up is the bit that sticks down into the oil sump that sucks up the oil , remove oil sump to get access to this but first thing I would do though is have a good look at the high pressure switch/sensor, make sure the wire is connected and its got good electrical contact on the sensor...

I agree with this 100%, if my engine ever shat the bed I would just buy another 2nd hand and swap them over on a weekend as there pretty damn cheap, but then again they are getting on abit now and a time will come where 2nd hand will be hard to get, don't think that time is now though,

send the ecu to united motorsports and they can remove sai from ecu or apparently you can fit a resistor to keep the ecu happy , don't ask me how or what though , united motorsports was my choice ;)

really don't know bud never looked that far into it, this may or may not help but I remember with mine that when i first scanned it i had a lambda fault, cant remember exactly what it said but i think "short to ground" was mentioned ?? stripped wiring harness back and traced the wiring back and a yellow and blue? wire went no where if i remember correctly this wire also linked up to the MAF! pretty sure it also gave me a maf fault again its been awhile so details are a little blury , where abouts in vcds do i check fuel trim?