VW_OwneR_85

yes on crank seal and timing chains/guides/ re seal timing chain casing,

as its random I would replace the oil pressure switch's , you have two, one gets triggered for low pressure which I belive just makes the oil light flash, and then the other is for high pressure which also flashs but beeps, so with that I would look at the high pressure switch on the oil filter housing and make sure the wiring connections are good and not corroded or in need of repair...

lol that's probably the reason why then, nice car btw

hi , never actually seen these throttle bodys so im not 100% sure if this is possible but maybe take your old throttle body to some one that can weld a nice piece of metal maybe a nut with a cut/slice down the middle so the cable can slot into that way it cant go anywhere? dunno but if they break that easy look at modifying the one you have,

fusebox white plug G1/12 Is the wire connection to the dash gauge for rev counter from ecu, have you connected up the Vehicle speed sensor wire from fusebox to ecu? if not then that would explain why your rev limit is comming on too early, I would suggest you scan the ecu for faults and go through them one by one http://www.a2resource.com/electrical/CE2.html http://www.clubgti.com/showthread.php?205887-OEM-management-wiring-1-8T-gt-Mk2-harness-install-FAQ

I think he took mic's comment seriously and misplaced the 2nd AND for are, " what are r32's AND 4motions?" in reply to-common and rubbish --, To O.P I would of done the 3.2 swap if it wasn't for the price tag on all things 3.2 and at the time I was kinda craping myself to weather or not I could actually do the swap so gambling £500 vs £2k was a safe bet, the first drive with 2.8 BDE was awesome!! car felt lighter and quicker and the exhaust note was music to my ears! i can only imagine what a 3.2 would be like in comparison , idd say if money wasn't an issue then either wait for an r32 rado or build one yourself , if money is an issue then go and drive the 2.8 and see what you think, don't think you would be disappointed i belive it is an improvement especially with the low down torque,

yea stocks fans and rad nothing needs changing in this department, the rad clearance is tight but it works fine without touching, do not shut/slam your bonnet though, you will more then likely need to cut a small section out of the drivers side inner braceing, the way I checked mine I had the front end off any way and with engine installed you can slowly close the bonnet and see what actually touchs and what needs removing,

i know its only photos but the panel seam hasn't even split! that's how minimal this is, lights aren't even damaged, i highly dought this has effected the floor pan, any bodyshop would use a stud gun and pull that back out with a little hammering no problem!!

yes easy , they would have to be partially on top of each other laying down, or if you stand them up upside down so the handle bars are on the bed you could make some brackets that the bars slot into which are fixed to the bed and then secure the wheel with a bungee and that way could get more then 2 and room for bags etc

what was the reason that the engine wouldnt start ?

it all depends on how you approach this conversion, like me and my swap it was already a vr6 so it had the right style clocks which work with the rev counter signal from ecu and i used the standard VR gearbox so the speedo remains exactly the same as how it was originally,

depending on the clocks you have , if you already had a vr6 in there to begin with then you don't need no fancy gadget its a case of connecting up one wire from the ecu plug to G1/12 , now to find out which wire that is on the ecu plug have a look through here or use a wiring diagram http://www.clubgti.com/showthread.php?205887-OEM-management-wiring-1-8T-gt-Mk2-harness-install-FAQ I belive its mk5 + ecu's that need a fancy gadget to get the rev working

good job budday!

yea engines 100% spot on in terms of electrics + running, going to be removing the engine some time this year for new clutch +timing chains and guides + new crank seal as theres a slight oil leak from the chain casing :( ,cool keep us posted on your progress :)

just put it in a sink of warm water and blown through the bottom hose connection while blocking the top hose connection with my finger and its not only leaking through the overflow/pressure relief valve but also slightly from the cap itself , so buy cheap buy twice!! one day I will learn!!

b&b components on ebay {says it all } , tank I got from gsf,

got my mk4 coolant bottle today, not sure if theres a problem with the cap but it doesn't take much pressure to make the cap valve blow by , I can blow it through just by using my lungs with little effort , is that normal?

i know your title says "coolant boiling" but then you say you noticed the temp gauge is rising to boiling point we need to know for sure is the coolant actually physically boiling away in the expansion tank? the cooling system is a pressurised sealed system , the fact that its pressurised allows coolant to get heated way above boiling point {100degrees C} and not boil, if its physically boiling away in the expansion tank then the cheapest option is to make sure the cap on the expansion tank is skrewed down properly if it is then replace it and go from there, if its not boiling then your engines probably just getting hot because your fans aren't working.

yes but don't even bother trying, its no fun trying to wrestle a gearbox out from under the car let alone getting it back in, spend the extra 1-2 hours in removing the whole engine/box complete , gearbox just un bolts from the engine and then pulls off as the axle from the gearbox sits in it, the clutch is bolted to the fly wheel and the flywheel is bolted to the engine, new flywheel and clutch bolts is needed everytime you remove them, replace timing chains + guides + crank seal + clutch and make sure you seal up the timing chain casing real good so it doesn't slowly leak oil causing you to go f-in mental when you get it all back together.. here have a read through this , http://the-corrado.net/showthread.php?t=84672

what engine? yes the gear box seperates easy, you just unbolt it , anything tricky? not really but at the time you all way's kinda think your going to forget where stuff goes back but when its time to re fit everything it goes back in its place, it will be tricky if you don't have an engine crane, best to jack up font end and place axle stands under the sub frame on the flat sections by the wishbone bolt then remove front end once that's done [takes less then 30mins} you can disconnect everything like driveshafts , wiring plugs ,exhaust , fuel lines, etc etc and then roll out the engine and gearbox as one unit, just take photos And label any electrical plugs that may look otherwise lost later on, any bolts you remove put them back in so you know where they came from, take note of different length bolts for certain things like the gearbox , your be fine it is kinda nerve racking when you remove your own engine for the first time especially when its running ok but take your time and label stuff and put stuff together in sections like put all the front end stuff together in a different area to the engine stuff so its not moddled up in one big pile for example..

ah ok , reason i ask is becuase last year {I have same engine as you} I was trying to trace a problem with mine which messed up my throttle pedal , basically my throttle pedal would just go dead, I thought maybe that's what you were experiencing in this limp mode, iv never had it on mine like you say, I was only limited to 4.5k when the vss wasn't connected up, I have since fitted brake and clutch switch and Im pretty sure that was the reason for my pedal going dead

ah crazy! but awesome!! lol your neighbour just phoned , he wants his drain pipe back!!.. 4" ?? huge!! hope it goes well for you,

iv got weitec which fall into your price range, nice finish on them and iv had no problems with them not an overly hard ride either...

sounds good to me! im looking at them now on ebay and theres loads of mk4 ones available ,the coolant hoses line up ok? the wiring plug looks like it sticks out awkwardly though, like rather then being tucked away towards the back it sticks out towards the engine, it look ok when installed? , cheers

+ fit the newer electrical connector right? is there any real benefit with the mk4 one? different type of plastic? clearer view of the coolant? , being able to visibly see fresh coolant makes a big difference imo , deffinalty going to be doing something with mine