VW_OwneR_85

maybe try these guys, http://www.stevensvwspares.com/ there also on ebay, i used them to get my wireing loom , very good service, wouldnt hurt to ask about engine etc

i recon its the oil cooler seals, you fitted that miltek yet? the one on mine sounded sweet when i had the 12v in it,lol yea whats up with the dryed out coolant on the heater matrix hose? you forgot to put a clamp on it ;)

yea im not bothered about grinding and welding/ modifiying, just interested to know if they {rears} can go in , like width wise, would love to have black leather from a corrado but the prices and delivery just dont add up for me

http://pc.dupont.com/dpc/en/US/html/visitor/s/trouble/PDSG_Blistering.html

anyone know anymore on this? also rear seats? anyone done it? , i have the chance at getting a mk3 vr6 { 5door though!!} with black leather interior for doing abit of work for a m8, iv heard for the front seats you can swap the cable mech from the 3door seat into the 5door seat so it folds down so its abit of extra work there,

damn that does sound like a nightmare!, sounds like its good to go now though, my corrado is now sporting banded steelys {only on one side as its still in the shed parked tight against a wall lol} hopefully get it reinsured next month ready for some cruzeing :)

if you like them then get them or find some others cheaper without tyres so you can put your own ones on , i personaly dont like them so i wouldnt go anywhere near them.

lol in the description further down it does say corrado ;)

i was kinda thinking the same thing, every other week theres a leak thread and everyone kinda mentions the same things...

glad to hear you changed your mind but whats up with the paint?!!!!! looks great as it is!!

if you want spacers , then get hub centric spacers , as these also have a built in spigot to take the load , they also come supplied with either radius or tapper seat bolts , think the minimum thickness is 15mm though so best check with what you can take,

iv got right click in mine , remember your want AH key blanks and not HAA same as this http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Remote-Keyless-Entry-car-central-lock-KE669W-ULT-/160817339080?pt=UK_Car_Accessories_Safety_Security&hash=item257175dac8 iv just got it wired to unlock/lock the doors , was just a case of connecting earths and a live and then tapping into the drivers door lock wires, realy wasnt interested in the other features these kits have

i recon its been done just not home grown DIY styley, if you want , you can give me your passat and ill give it a blady good go! i'll promise to take pics lol , p.s think you should get a sound clip of that exhaust note up ;) this might interest you :) http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/VW-Golf-G60-R36-SYNCRO-1991-/261162201914?pt=Automobiles_UK&hash=item3cce7af33a

lol i guess i was the only one thinking that passat was about to get torn down to create a 4mo 3.6 corrado. , nice car op :)

could be the plug leads, or it could be the maff, coilpack? , unplug your maff and check the connection aint damp , mine had a tendancy to get damp and cause running problems because of the way the cable was routed it would allow water to flow into the plug..

probably the door striker on the shell might want adjusting, its position makes a big differeance to how easy the door shuts, if you eye it up and have the door almost shut you can see wether or not its at the right level, if its to high that means the door will have to lift up when it shuts, if its to far back then the door will have to push harder then it has to against the door frame before it shuts,{sounds like your problem} it doesnt need to be too tight to keep water out, since having both my doors off for audi handles iv had to re adjust everything and both my doors can now be closed by a slight flick of the hand, takes no effort for them to shut.

hahaha thats got to be the funniest typo iv seen this year, OP check out the definitive 24v thread stickyed in the engine bay section of the forum.

the waters going somewhere, oil on the dipstick look good? you checked the front carpets around and under the dash areas?

in regards to the plastic , the ones bolted to the engine idd check first but most plastic parts in/on the cooling system of age can become brittle and break/fracture, i dont know what you mean about the coolant bottle though? "I find it a little odd how only the bottle is only loosing coolant. "

sun roof could be casueing the damp rear carpet, possibly door seal? only thing that realy goes inside the car is the heater matrix { radiator for the heater} apart from the obvious look in the engine bay at all the hoses and where they connect, old plastic has a tendancy to crack , look on the engine for signs of water marks , maybe place a large peice of card under the front of the car and check for drips, use a torch to help look in the bay

when you say "does not fit into the hub" , does the axle poke through enough to put the nut on? , http://the-corrado.net/showthread.php?76800-VR6-hub-nut-torque-plus-suspension-useful-instructions

cant get better then that! ;)

thread jacker you!! , et 20 would actualy stick further in the arch then et 15, to match the look of mine on a g60 i think et10 would do it, so yea your be fine with et 20 should poke a tiny bit i recon, i had 7.5 et 15 upfront and it cleared ok on the vr so et25 should be fine, the lower the number the more it sticks out...

there borbet A 16x9 ET 15 on a vr6 so on a g60 they would stick in abit more due to the track being narrower, 205/45 tyre.

your also need remote central locking kit, dont want to put you off but its alot of work! The mechansims a bitch aswell, i ended up modifying an M8 elbow balljoint, basicly cut it and re welded it so its straight, that then bolts to the lock latch then the other end goes to the arm from the handle, all threaded studs , so theres zero flex and absolutly no way it can fail , i used audi a6 handles as the surrounding metal seems flatter then that of the A3, pictures of the whole thing in my thread,