steveo29
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Everything posted by steveo29
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vw pumps are £23...did mine when the charger was off
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talk to pitstopdevolpments.com
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follow the lambda wiring from the plug on the rear driver side(rhd) engine mount ...it goes behind the engine...when you reach the area near the inlet there should be a metal foil cover with velcro on it....cut into the black sleeve to expose the wires...you need one thats a pinky lavender color. it has a thin foil covering,carefully slice it and use a scocthlok on it
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red =switched live..black =earth...the other wire cant remeber color goes to a pink/lavender color wire best tapped into behind the inlet where the metalic sleeve is
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i think it could have been me that sold you the chip...i can confirm it did run properly with a 68mm pulley..is that the size you have? are you sure you didnt damage anything when you had the ecu out? is the vac on securley? how old are your plugs maybe the extra boost is needing a better spark..always use the pukka exp plugs
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make sure the grease only goes on the parts that DONT touch the disc
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maybe the gargae put the wrong grade oil in...i noticed mine will vary a bit depending on what i use...with synta gold it dont go over 115
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test the senosrs with an ohm meter...the dud one will read a differant amount :shock:
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is it a g60 ?...the outlets on the head x2 tend to crack...new ones are £10
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yeah storms right...im a painter ,we use a large garge sized oven that you drive in....if they mess up the alarm -make em pay for it
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it does sound like a duff ecu..most common thing is people change the clutch and leave the earth off the gearbox..then it fries the ecu id suggest going over all the earth point properly..maybe replace a few ,and then borrow a known good one to try
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my abs pump has started to play up.....at first a fuse blew and a replacement cured it for a week or two....tonight it happend again,a fuse made the pump run for a few seconds..then blew...now fuse doesnt blow(but gets hot)...and the pump does nothing i have poped the lid from the relay...its seems to operate?? any ideas its on a mk2 g60...which i assume is the same as a corado
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jabba sells em...called a check valve there though ..same thing
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check the c/o pot ohms.....theyre best around 450-500 ....higher ohms =less fuel....maybe the blue temp sender
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ive asked about coils before...seems the standard bosch ones are fine
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make sure the ball joints have been fitted in the middle of the slot ajustment...if theyre not central it will cause camber probs and cv joint wear....although its not a prob to use those bolts as long as the ball joints are right....
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a g60 alt is a 10 min job good luck
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its called an a/f gauge..http://www.summitracing.com about $30 or so...that what most guys in the states use
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sounds like the heater matrix if its wet inside....does it smell like antifreeze in there
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do the g&s pads make much dust?...i run the std pagid ones and my bbs wheels are black within a few miles :mad:
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yep id always go with a vw head gasket.....maybe skimp on other easier to do gaskets...make sure you get the proper steel g60 one
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ive read about it....you can get wide angle leds to light up the dials..and fit a piece of blue film?? over the digital display.......switches can also be done ,it involves taking em apart and fitting in leds looks good but i recon theres a good chance of breaking stuff....do a search on google theres lots of stuff about it
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ive known of a couple of people that had them fitted...and then went back to a g lader....apparently the poer delivery isnt all that good and for that price you can have a spare charger or a turbo kit :lol:
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then you can add some timing...more advance=more power
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i got a new fpr from the states($57posted).....the 1st chip i got had a slight flat spot(because my car has grey inj)...they happily changed it so yeah..its plug n play...some extra performance can be had by advancing your timing,if your prepared to run optimax petrol