Stonejag

Pretty sure my garage said they were obsolete from VW now, but the replacement was ~£100. I wouldn't go for the cheap ones just because of how dangerous it is when they go suddenly...(mine went at 90 on the M20!) It's only half an hour to fit so really not that traumatic at all. But please replace it before it starts destroying stuff! My exhaust blow got a lot worse after it was backfiring everywhere... Stone

I was only reading the front page so maybe! All yours if you still want it mate, I'll stick some silicone in the bored-out holes of mine...

Fiver for the radiator top cover? Stone

I was very tempted by the Grid Drift until I got the Ultraleggeras. Have a look at Konig Forwards as well, they're similar but IMO nicer :)

I really should have thought of that! Thanks for the tip :)

A rare spot for me today on my way into work! A classic green M-reg Storm on the M1, J11 at around 0815. Exchanged waves with the driver, who seemed not to be able to keep his eyes off the mirror as I snuck up behind him :lol:

You can order a repair panel - 535 809 844A. Sit down before enquiring as to the price though... Your best bet is to cut a big square out of a breaker and hand it to a body shop. Mine is thoroughly battered around the wheel arch (luckily the fuel flap isn't involved) and I've been putting off exactly the same thing! Stone

Still got the coilovers? One of mine has sprung a leak. Cheers Stone

It's the correct part, but depending on revision you may have to cut a plastic tab off the brown connector to allow it to fit onto your immobiliser box. The connector is three pins in an elongated D shape - there should be retention tabs top and bottom, but if there's one on the upright bit of the D as well then you just need to slice it off with a sharp knife. I nabbed a spare for mine from a Mk4 Polo in a scrapyard (cost me £2!) which I nearly fitted when swapping steering columns over, but it turned out to be tied into a load of the dashboard loom so I didn't bother in the end. Be prepared to remove both halves of the steering column cowl and also the fusebox cover and footwell trim to allow yourself room to fit it - it'd be exponentially more awkward to do it without even though it's possible. Would make your life easier if you could drop the steering column as well but you may not want to drill out the shear bolts. I removed the spare from the Polo without doing any of this though :) Stone

Have you got Vag-com? Mine did this for a few weeks before my crank sensor died - most pronounced at around 30mph. You may see an 'implausible signal' code stored if you check it. It only did it when hot, but if it's your crank sensor the slight misfire / rev counter wander will suddenly turn into wild swinging between 0-4000rpm, firing at random intervals, backfires and your catalytic converter being shafted by all the unburnt fuel. It's a £100 part and half an hour to fit but a week of trauma if it goes suddenly..! This was a VR btw, not sure of your model or if it works the same on all models... Stone

Just had a horrible thought - how do I tell if I have a 55l tank? Even if it's reading totally empty I'm pretty sure it cuts off before I've got more than 50l in. It's a '95 VR6 but auto so not sure if it'd be a different build..?

Payment sent. Thanks for sorting this out! :thumbleft:

Link to CCC pages on changing activation speed: see here. 470K resistors are incredibly common (see here for why) and cost pence. If anyone wants it done and can't or won't solder I'll do it for the price of a pint :)

I could do with a rad cover actually, the holes in mine stripped out...care to let one go? ;) I've got heaped piles of stuff but undamaged front/rear bumpers, headlight components and various electrical boxes are probably my best. Oh, and a complete set of cruise control gear from a LHD VR6 Passat that I still need to make some bracketry for! Stone

I'll have the boot light on the right, please. Stone

They're very, very cheap. Downsides for me are: 1) The spring rate is all wrong - the same kit fits he Mk3 Golf, Ibiza, Polo etc etc etc and the VR6 is too nose-heavy so the back shocks suffer 2) One of my rears is leaking after ~15,000 miles. They do have a 2 year warranty but I'm only just inside it so will probably get bounced before it's sorted...

Done, thanks chap! :) In the interests of being helpful, I did a bit of my own digging - the seals are part number 035906149A (a 7.52/3.53mm Viton O-ring) which are available here at £6.06 for ten. Bargain compared to VW's £3 each! Stone

Hi all, I'm rebuilding my spare fuel rail as part of my continuing head rebuild. Has anybody replaced the o-rings on their injectors, and if so what did you use? The existing ones don't look too bad but I'd like to shotgun the lot as it's annoying to have to take it all apart again after you've done a big job..! Thanks Stone

Since this has been bumped up now, any chance of an update on the speedo surround? :) Cheers Stone

Yeah, I bought a new fan controller at Inters. Turned out to be the wrong fitment but I stuffed a load of WD40 down the plugs when I refitted the original and now my fans work :D Bizarre as I'm 100% sure I'd tried that before, but..! Still seeing a 15ºC drop when switching off, but it seems to just be a Corrado thing. Much happier with my oil/water temperatures now though, might not need to fit the Mocal after all! Stone

Eek! And this is why I don't want to lap the 'ring... Looked like a rollcage in the back so it's probably not quite as bad as it looks - at least as far as shell damage goes. They might want to get the ABS working before next time though! :eek: Stone

Local engineering firm - they mostly do repairs to production machinery (metal-spray / chrome parts to oversize, then machine down to spec) and rechroming motorbike forks, but they do a sideline in plasma-sprayed coatings, everything from road cars to jet engines! They're called AM Philpot Hard Chrome link. Got the manifold back today and it looks awesome! The coating has a rough texture, like 80-grit sandpaper. It's also very abrasive. Will have to keep it away from the polished bits :) Two reasons: 1) The standard exhaust is pig-ugly! I have enough rust on the bodywork, I don't like it in my engine bay as well. Heatwrap looks horrible and is hard to do right; leaving a six-branch bare will melt all my engine plastics so coating it looked like the answer. 2) I don't yet know if I want to supercharge it in future, and since I'm getting the head replaced soon it made sense to do it all at once. I know not everyone will agree with me, but I'm not modifying it by committee :) Stone

Head skimming is really cheap - as in £20 - don't sell the 263s over it! Likewise cleaning my spare head wasn't dear. Just be sure to be meticulous about cleaning it up afterwards as there'll be lots of grit in the tiny spaces inside and in threaded surfaces etc. Go over it with an airline and then vacuum, then airline etc until no more comes out. When reassembling, if any threaded components feel gritty as you do them up then stop and do it again! If you spread it out over a few months it also seems much cheaper ;) Stone

Are you still using the stock VR6 fan setup? If they don't run then you will see very high temperatures - especially when stuck in traffic or enthusiastic motorway driving. Got mine working the other day (finally!) and I never see more than 108 in hard driving now, or 112 in traffic. Was seeing 126 before so it's made a big difference! Nick

Best posted price on the speedo surround? I'm assuming it's the same early/late... Cheers Stone