PhatVR6

I expect the pics will be ready around.............April

no need to kick up a fuss, just hand it back and ask for a refund. as for kicking off, have you seen the size of Richard!?

send it back and ask for a refund, it's not what you ordered or paid for and if you don't want it you're not obliged to keep it.

as for them both doing the same thing, they will do, there's only one motor, the second fans runs off the first via a rubber belt. if the left one doesn't turn with the right one, the belt has snapped.

or the first speed oft he fan isn't workin, like I said i the first place..... in which case the fans are coming on at the second speed, can't remember the temp which that is meant to be.

yes, at what temperature do they come in?

welcome to the forum it's probably a case of the number 1 fan speed not working, as is oh so common with the VR6 fans. turn the engine off when you're sat in traffic.

yeah, I remember that price when I priced them , i never bothered, I used the old ones.

a land rover

ceratainly is, and it's precisely why we put a beetle crossflow head on my mate's G60 when we turboed it.

remember Gibber's inlet? that had a charge cooler in it. your shimmel should run a lot cooler, with it not being subject to so much heat soak off the engine. I'd be tempted to lower the radiator so that the inlet actually gets some air flow to cool it down. are you going to run an phenolic gasket?

shocking build quality, the paintwork and finish levels are a joke for a so called "prestige" car. if I ever bought one I'd have to strip it down and rebuilt it properly my mates just sold his TVR Cerbera. the replacement? he's gone back to his Corrado G60......

OK, here's my idea. feel free to steal it if you may, because I'm not sure if it'll work and I'm not clever enough to be able to work it out mathematically to prove or disprove it. plus it's a hell of a lot of work to do just to "try it out". This it what I was telling ChrisVR6NOS about when he had his heart failure last month, so I will say now that I don't accept any responsibilites for any health problems inflicted by this post! I've ran the idea past vortex, and they couldn't decide either, but apprently the Ford Lightning uses a similar idea so it must work. Here we go:- Run a charge cooler, BUT instead of running water through it, use the air con system. Pump the air con coolant through it (i'd have to be pressurised of course). it's more effiicient at cooling than water and air, and the air con pre rad takes up MUCH less room than an intercooler. Ignoring the pump effects, it has to be more than 100% efficient from a cooling point of view. Get this. you could have it thremostacially controlled, so the air con pump come in when required, or how about this, it only comes on when you brake or aren't at WOT. or if you're drag racing you turn the pump on a super chill the cooler, then turn it off just before you do your drag run so you have't got the pump scavenging off the engine! I think it's a brill idea but it needs some calcs to work out if the pump could handle it and whether the system could really cope with that much temperature drop. But if a heater matrix and a water pump can do it, I don't see why this can't. The biggest prob is the effect the pump has on the engine, but that has been thought of, the pump doesn't need to run all the time. or could an electric pump be used? thoughts and sugestions please!

euro car parts do a good alloy core corrado vr6 rad for £100. the GSF one I got was utter crap. I sent it back

nah, just get TPFT, and if you break your screen, ring them up, upgrade to fully comp, them claim for the window!

that's no corrado rad, it's far too tall.

you didn't throw away the heater controls did you? they goo for good money!

that's my problem, not many places will do a vr6 syncro specific kit. and not many people will sell me seperates either I'm also considering going for TT wishbones, rack and hubs up front too, so i may even need TT/R32 fitment fronts and syncro rears. But I haven'te tried the 4 motion struts yet so see if the length is going to be a mile off or not. also, i know nothing about spring weights, so maybe I should really build the whole car, then have it weighed properly, then get the suspension to suit.?

nice work! (although it's not going to help get the bloody thing on the road is it!)

I'm going to be on the look out for coilovers at inters. Hopefully I'll find someone who can sell me the KW setup I want. if not, then it looks like I'll be saving up for a custom LEDA or OHLINS setup.

not a bad effort! liking the colour! try turning the wheel pic upside down first for a better angle. I'm now thinking that paint rather than powdercoat might be the way forwards, and doing them in the pearlescent orange that my old mk2 was (as I'm having my bike done in that colour and will be buying some more paint anyway.)

waiting for someone to photshop some orange ones on! they aren't the best looking wheels anyway, and they'll be on slicks so i won't be usng them on the road, so the more i think about it, the brighter the better!

because I'll be powdercoating them at work for free, and we don't have any blackberry powder!

i'm gutted i didn't go years ago, it looks far too busy now :-(

After having got into bikes last year, then falling off my own bike at the TT last week I can see how easily done this is. hence why I will not go anywehre near the nurburgring without a full welded in roll cage. crashing your car is one thing, walking away unmarked is another. one i can live with.....the other, I don't want to chance.