Human Joist

Go for the 100 and that pays for your Christmas dinner from M&S

If you get a referral you and the referee both get £75 voucher for M&S or similar. Just done this with my sister. I don't mind referring you lol

From what CazzaVR says he makes a very good argument for oe. I do agree that if you are going for non polly get VW as the originals have lasted nearly 20 years so you will get same again do you need to take the rear beam off to do it. Or is that just easier.

They are time consuming to remove remember doing some on a mk2 golf which is the same and having to hacksaw a bit out. If I do mine I will go polly. Would not do the whole of the car as it will stiffen it up to much. For example doing the front wishbones will make it very hard. Polly ones are easy as you copper grease them and they go in easy enough. If you go factory/original I understand you will need to but a specialist tool which I understand is not cheap.

I am glad this is amusing you....... But think I will stick with what I have for now. It could be worse as the last few examples show.

I had it a number of years ago when some tit stuffed a vectra I had as a daily. They offered me £1950 when I had bought it the week before for £2400. I remained calm and they told me that had priced it off one of the cheapest examples on auto trader and that was how they worked. I then found more examples of the same spec and mileage and age and they re priced it at £3000 so best advice is refuse to accept it and you want the full price of the car and your not willing to stump up any recovery salvage etc as it was not your fault their driver crashed the car. You could always speak to the other parties insurance company direct and let them know the problem and point out that if it goes on for ages with arguing over total cost your insurance company are going to bill more for their time than the difference. Also did you get a courtesy car if so that's a daily cost they have to bear till the claim is settled.

Lets leave it at that I hate to think what you could come up with next you bugger. Lol

What the hell, I understand how you work it now, but......Ham Joint Us..... You having a laugh.......cheers anyway.

Also sounds like a good set up will sort it. Will get mag back from a mate tomorrow hopefully

Reason is I can now be located via google search on my name and for my job, that's not necessarily the best thing

Ok. Yeah set up my name when joined and been meaning to change for some time, take it there is not a setting somewhere that I missed

Hi, just wondered how I go about changing my profile name, if there is a guru in the know. Cheers in advance

Not sure of the part number as used a reg number for a 1.8 16v KR I used to have

More work completed. KW v1 ordered and fitted great set up highly recommended. Polly bushed anti roll bar and then got the original front door cards re trimmed in grey leather to match the rest of the newly transplanted interior. Just an exhaust to go and then decide what's after that. Ideas!!!!!

If you want 4 genuine injectors its £253.66 and the guides should be £21.20 for the 4. Saying that it would be more if you walked in and asked without discount. The price has gone up quite a bit since I bought them. Euro Car Parts have just quoted me Bosch injectors for about £60 + VAT each. I have a friend with a trade account at one of their stores locally to me and could get them for about £40 each plus delivery if that helps. Let me know if you can't get them cheaper and I can sort it for you. Let me know bud.

Takes about that. Jack the car and support it on stands just behind the subframe on the engine mount which gives you plenty of space to work. Put your jack in the middle of the subframe and then remove the 6 bolts securing it to the chassis. At the same time remove the drop links to free the bar. Lower the subframe down and then leaving it sat with most of the weight on the jack you can undo and remove the anti roll bar and the metal retainer clip. Clean up the bar where the bushes sit and copper grease them up and put on the new bushes. I would go for polly as they are easier to fit and don't make the car any harder. Also buy two new metal retaining clips as mine were well worn and half the thickness, they had also lost shape, only a few quid from VW. It's a bit of a bugger to get the clip in and I ended up using a breaker bar to pry the subframe low enough. Then comes the next issue of compressing the bush and the new bracket close enough to get the screw in without cross threading. A trick I discovered was to again use the breaker bar placing it between the top of the metal clip and the bottom of the chassis then gently jack the subframe back up using the force to compress the bush and clip in to the correct position. Once there use a large screwdriver to make the final small adjustment to get the screw home and then put back together as as you took apart. This method took about an hour for start to finish. ..........Plus tidying and naming all my tools ...... Sad

When it comes to replacing the injectors I can help with the advice as I did mine on a 1.8 16v KR which is the same as the 1.8 radio discussed in this thread. When removing the old ones, yes as mentioned earlier spray them with wd and let them soak first. They should just pull out. It does not feel natural when you do this. You just grab hold of the top of the injector where the braded pipe joins and then give it a sharp pull to come free. Sometimes if they have not been moved before or for a long time they are in there tight. Once out you can test them but the factory advice was always 100,000 so it's worth replacing them anyway. I looked round to see about refurb but it was not that much cheaper and you still had to send yours away etc etc so I went for new. I would suggest main dealer as its an important and accurate part of the car. But cost is always an issue. Mine came with the little rubber seals to go on the new injector as you would expect from main dealer. You then simply fit them to the braided hose. The plastic guides are fitted in to the intake manifold and from memory take a socket or extension to them to twist them out but you can guarantee they will be original and brittle as anything. So from personal experience I would get a set of those two. The best way to do this is to remove the entire manifold to guarantee bits don't end up where you don't want them. But that's easy to do. (You could also use it as a opportunity to have it powder coated at the same time for a nice touch) replace the plastic guides then replace the inlet manifold then push fit the injectors with a tiny but of copper grease just to make sure they go home correctly. I have a good friend who works at VW on parts. So when I did mine I got them from him and they were not that much more than a GSF job. I will pop and see him tomorrow to see what sort of price he can get the lot for, injectors, seals and guides. Then put that on here after in case anyone wants me to get them a set. I like places like GSF and euro car parts but would stick to VW if funds allow, the originals lasted for so long so the next lot should outlast the car.

Would steer away from red stuff as they don't work up to 50c as they track. Green stuff are good either with their EBC discs or black diamond discs. But to echo the above Brembo discs with Pagid fast road pads. Will be spot on. I have gone for that on the last few old VWs I have had and always get good results

Should be able to get the mag and set up guide on in next few days. If it would no start once you unplugged the wires it could lead to your timing being way off.

Not sure what you were tying to do with the red black wire and blocking inlet. But be mindful with the red black wire at coil as they can create a shock that kills if the earth is naff.

Someone else might correct me. But from memory the warm up regulator controls what is know as the 5th injector. Looking at the engine from the front there should be a fuel pipe that runs along the top front of the engine. On the right hand side of this pipe when looking at the car is the 5th injector. This is controlled by the warm up regulator which sits just under it and is connected by a wire from memory, it fires extra fuel in to the engine when it detects its under a certain temperature. The easiest way would be to remove this injector and get a friend to start your car with it in a jar so you can see if it fires. You can do it with engine cold and then with engine warm. It should fire in a fine spray and not drip out. Other things to check are the seals around the injectors and the injectors themselves as they should all work with a fine spray. There is a lot to consider. Especially when removing the injectors as the seals will most likely be hard and may break. Also the plastic housing the injector pushes in to are renown for getting brittle as they age. If they break and you replace them be prepared to take of the intake as you don't want bits to drop in to the block. Prior to removing injectors you can spray them with wd40 they should bubble and the engine may struggle if they are leaking outwards. The injectors are about £125 ish for the four and that comes with seals and the plastic guides are not much. They should last for about 100,000 miles and then be replaced or refurbished. I bought mine new from VW. Also not knowing how mechanically minded you are when you adjusted the co2 screw you need to be very careful you don't go too far as it will drop out in to the box and its very fiddely to get it back in again. I had no end of problems with my last one. Hence me using the guide first. It covers lost of points. I hope to collect the mag from a friend tonight and I will get it on later. These will keep you busy for now checking

I used to have a mk2 golf 16v Gti. I got hold of a complete set up guide in an old Golf+, it detailed everything from where the connectors should all be to co2 set up and timing. It was published years ago and used as a point of reference for bad running valvers. I presume that it will all be the same layout on a corrado. I will have a look over the next few days and see if I can dig it out. Then either scan or photo it and post it on here if that's any use mate. I got a couple of cars back to perfect running order from this. Unless you are 100% it's all set up right it might be worth doing this as a starting point and if it does not cure all it will at least have the rest of the car as it should be which may eliminate some possible faults. Let me know if you want this

Arghh your about 6 months too late. I was looking every where for a set but gave up as too costly. It might be worth doing the running round and get a set made up then selling on eBay if you don't get offers mate

I have just bought some new wheels and tyres for my daily Octavia VRS they are TTRS 18" replicas and they have quite a few weights on them. As long as your car drives ok I would not worry to much I used to have a Golf Mk2 I built from ground up and one of the rear wheels had a flat spot on from where the moron who had it before me dropped it on cheap coil overs and hit something. I did not know about it till they were balanced up with new tyres after a costly refurb. I carried on using it and it never caused a problem with the ride or tyre wear and that had quite a lot of weights on it. [ATTACH=CONFIG]69510[/ATTACH]

[ATTACH=CONFIG]69506[/ATTACH] this is mine with 8" all round. I ended up having to have a 10mm spacer as they fouled on the brake calliper carrier, which was a shame as they ended up sticking out a touch but I think e car carries them off. I would have preferred staggered as you have but these came along at a good price as a new set [ATTACH=CONFIG]69507[/ATTACH] I have gotta say I do like how yours sits with those wheels on redborbet, they make the car