Human Joist

There is always the possibility that the wheel is ok but there might be a fault with the tyre. I have seen it before with a cheap tyre where it had a manufacturing fault inside it and left it off balanced.

Pictures ? Sound like a nice fit

An easy way to check is lie on your back and put your hand on the anti roll bar by the mounting point then get a mate to roll the car back and forth. On mine as I heard the noise I could also feel the creak through the bar

Nice. They really suit the car.

It does not get easier when it comes to wheels. I had mine fitted less than 3 months and the gold plating on the studs started to lose the colour as water got behind the finish the manufacturers made some excuses. The company I bought them from come heavily recommended. "Revolution 247" managed to negotiate a new set of wheels at no cost to me. If your after good customer service try their website prior to ordering. They were also the most competitive price

I would be looking at that for that size wheel. You should get a slight stretch for that desired look. Apparently if you stretch a tyre it does reduce ride and grip slightly but to be honest I have 205/40/16 on an 8" wide and can't feel any issues when moving on. It's all about personal preference. If you want a stretch then yes. Factory would be no but it will also help stop any rubbing. I have seen pictures of 195 on 9" wide but that looked silly and dangerous. Good for show car only. So yeah 195 should look good on 7.5" without going too far. I know what it's like I spent ages trying to make right decision. However...if they supply them with that tyre 205/45/16 you might have some comeback if they don't fit where as if you "fiddle" with their suggested size and had issues they could land it all on you.

VR6 they came from Revolution247. Easy to find on Internet they were 16x8 et 25. I had to remove the entire rear inner arch to get them to stop catching and mine is not that low. If you not prepared to chance some sort of arch work it might be worth getting a set of a mate to check first. That is unless its a standard height

Came with genuine BBS centres

If you want 7.5 x 16 go for lenso bsx. They do that size for about £500. Have a look at my pic left and more in profile for an idea. Mine are Dare Dr Rs. They are 8x16 but exactly the same design.

I did have a bit of problem fitting them. I had crappy cheap coilovers that had too much travel on them so I swapped them for KW v1 and then rolled arches a rear. Also chucked on front hub central spacers to clear the brakes. You might find you get similar problems despite the slimmer wheel.

Sorry for delay in the result. It seemed that the front anti roll bar bushes had failed. They are a bit of a bugger to change as you need to drop the sub frame and support the engine to prize the buggers out. I replaced with polly ones and at the same time put new bush retaining clips in as well as they were rusted and hakf the thickness of original. I also noticed that the drop links while new were a poor quality so I replaced those with OE and that cured to creaking. I had another post about these for changing them and the advice was to take subframe off as t was thought to be too hard to change. As it turned out that's not the case. It is a DIY job. Can talk you through it if interested.

I looked at these but went for the Dare DR RS. Basically the same wheel from a different manufacturer but cheaper. Mine are 8x16 so little wider with a slightly stretched tyre they look great. They are a one piece wheel so that's why the price is cheaper. Have a look at my profile for an idea of how they will look as they are identical to the Lenso

Right this is all done and as it turned out not much hastle. I put the car on stands on the chassis runners. The put a trolly jack under the centre of the subframe. Undid all 6 bolts that hold it to the car and dropped it down. Done like this there was still loads of movement in the subframe to allow you to push the subframe around from underneath to take the roll bar out. As it turns out the drop links also needed replacing. As a big tip for anyone attempting this get new clips for the bush as the two that held the bushes on mine were rusty and half the thickness as new ones. So I put car back together and got these from vw for £10 then took it off again yesterday. When it comes to pulling the new clip down on top of the bush to screw it in 3corsameal was right its a bugger. In the end I put a braker bar a cross the top of the clip and then jacked the subframe up to the car thus squashing the braker bar between subframe and chassis which pushed the clip home so t was nice and easy to screw up. This method also allows you to wiggle the bar to get the holes lined up. Works a treat.

Mind just arrived. Cheers dude. Just wondered I take it the rear smaller polly is the yellow one which is softer?

Just had a quick look when I diagnosed them as failing. Will have proper look when the polly ones come through

That much fun are they

Good lad that was a quick reply. Will buy the polly ones then. Cheers dude

Need to order some new front anti roll bar bushes as mine have failed. I have a VR6 model. Any idea if that will be the 18mm or the 20mm width bar. I thought 20 but just wanted to check before the polly order goes in

Think I may have found answer. It appears that it's the anti roll bar bushes. If I put hand on the bar and rock the car I can hear the cream and feel it through the bar. Polly bush time I reckon

I am going to renew the mounts in a couple of days as thought this may cure. Got the polly ones off a group buy on here. Will check other places you mention cheers. They are normal bushes on wish one GSF or similar I presume. Fitted couples of thousand miles ago when my mate the previous owner converted from auto to manual.

Let us know if you need any more info

As far as the rear wheel bearing goes pop wheel off put socket on and extension and give it a little turn by hand if possible if not a little nip with socket. As above top mounts are easy. You will need a press for front wheel bearings and they can be fidly. Oil coolers go in the middle where it's thinnest it's an alloy square style with the oil filter screwed to it. Its not too much hastle to swap but messy you will end up changing oul and filter at same time and also coolant if its old. When my rear axel bushes failed on mk2 golf it was obvious as it scrubbed tyre. I ended up cutting the old one out with a hack saw blade then hammering rest out. I put a polly bush in but a lot of people on this forum and others elsewhere maintain this makes the car too hard so it might be worth putting an original back in. If it had not failed on all these dont worry it gives you something to do during the rainy summer.

Where did you spray on top mounts. Between top plate and underside of mount or top of mount to body of car or both. It seems odd with the bearing set up but made sure it sits like it should. Plastic KW spring top, new genuine bearing with larger centre hole to the bottom, new genuine nut then placed top mount on and offered to car then original metal retainer in engine then nylock nut

Right advice time. My VR6 has a creaky front end. I get the annoying noise when maneovering and when I reverse off drive and full lock it there is a metallic noise which I have discovered is the spring. I even get the noise when the handbrake is full on and you start as if to pull off. I took it that something was worn and noticed the coilovers when I bought it were cheap rubbish. So they came off and I replaced them with KW V1 and thought that would cure it. It did not cure it, however it still needed doing. I then replaced the top bearings and they were still creaky. The top mounts are quite new and do not appear to have lost shape. Lower ball joints and bottom arms new as well as drop links. I have just ordered a set of engine polly bush mount inserts off the group buy and will sort that when they arrive. All else seems new or in good order. Any ideas would be appreciated.

Are they not guaranteed for life?