Redfox
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Everything posted by Redfox
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Changed all my front light bulbs today to Osram Nightbreaker H4 and the seperate long beam bulb as well. 90% more light and 10% whiter. Souds too good, but actually I am very surprised of how good they light up ;) Adjusted hight too. Now speed can be approached at night time ;) Cheers, Redfox.
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Good job Portent! Cheers, Redfox.
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Am in the process of spraying a lot of black colour all over my seats... ;) Cheers, Redfox.
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Renshaw project (probably going to sell / swap)
Redfox replied to 24V Renshaw's topic in Members Gallery
Good to hear that you managed to get home. I am actually getting a bit worried of VW's rather ugly stand to refuse to supply even the most well-known spares. Even mazda does not do this. I'll try to source one here, if I can get two, I'll drop you a pm. Cheers, Redfox. -
Small update, I've made a little progress (have to go to job), and since last time, I have lofted the parts higher off the floor, and use my compressor (turned down) as supply, in stead of a lot of cold cans. I am now on the back seat back rests, and after having cleaned them, dissolved them, and given them all sorts of leather revival, they look like this: [ATTACH=CONFIG]54081[/ATTACH] I then let it airdry for an hour, before proceeding to next sponged layer: [ATTACH=CONFIG]54085[/ATTACH] After four layers, I turn around and make the backside similar. Then I spray on two further layers of black, with one hour of drying between each. I let it dry for one day, and then spray one coat of gloss clearvoat (for a lot stronger surface) combined with x-linker. Then let dry till' next day, and then clean up again, and then three layers of matt clearcoat, again with x-linker to make the strongest possible surface. All parts get this treatment, not only the seats. This is to get the best surface on all parts. Because of this, I can really clean it up later with no fear of loss of finish or colour or matt surface, plus no wear and tear. On a doorcard, it looks like this: [ATTACH=CONFIG]54089[/ATTACH] I now ran out of matt clearcoat, and ordered some more, so more progress later. After one week of letting it dry, and np touching, I will use a good going over with "ultra cleaner" and then proceed with two layers of leather protection cream. It will bring a small amount of shine to the leather, but because I chose total matt clearcoat, it will be like factory when finally finished. So more to follow in a weeks time or so. Cheers, Redfox.
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Audio Sytem Build. Medium/ High Spec. Front End Pref. Discreet.
Redfox replied to tentonhammer's topic in ICE 'n' Secure
May I ask how heavy is the dynamat? Is it seriously hevy as in weigh a lot? Or is it next to nothing? Cheers, Redfox. -
solution to a potential proglem when dyeing leather. I have observed that spraying of colour and finisher in particular, can create a few small white specs in the surface. Not dust, but miscolouring. This is solved by shaking the ingredients longer before use, and filtering it through a cofee filter and finally by adding a bit of the volour into the finisher. Cheers, Redfox
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Gone from boring and dirty, to fresh and well looing! Nice job. Nice car. Would also like to know more on the leather work. Cheers, Redfox
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Sorry to hear about that. Seems to be happening a lot these years, as more and more scum are driving, making accidents and making a run for it afterwards. Hope you get it sorten in a good way. Cheers, Redfox.
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Update, I've spent all day cleaning my garage out, and then I've sanded all finished peices all over with grit 400, lightly. Amizingly not a scratch in the black surface, and then cleaned it all up with the ultracleaner from furnitureClinic. Then let it to dry, raised my spraying level way off the ground, and stopped using a heatgun/hairdryer which is normally used as per Furniture clinic. Then I've sprayed one new layer of matt clearcoat with a mixture of x-linker to make it stronger. Result? Perfect ;) Sooooft, smooooth and niiiice to look at and to touch. Now, I have finished the two rear doorcards, the two rear seats, and the center armrest. I'll be doing that all over from now on. So if anyone else does this, do yourself a favour, and do the same, to get perfect result. What amazes me is that even though I sanded it down with the coarse 400 grit sandpaper, I couldn't even see one scratch or loss of surface, matt finish or colour. That makes a good promise for the future wear and tear, which with all the extra chemicals, should be in no less than 20 years use ;) (or more). And way too easy to do again. A daylight of the finished new matt leather finish: More later. Cheers, Blackfox :black:
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I think he is nuts about your Corrado, or maybe he is just a Corrado nutter like the rest of us? Cheers, Redfox
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*ATTENTION G60 People (my SECOND charger is F****D)*
Redfox replied to northG60's topic in Engine Bay
Good to hear NorthG60. Good luck and let us know how things goes. Cheers, Redfox -
HI all, Can't really find the Conti sc5 in 205/40-17. Does anyone know if they come in this size? And do they have silica in them? Cheers, Redfox
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*ATTENTION G60 People (my SECOND charger is F****D)*
Redfox replied to northG60's topic in Engine Bay
Hi North G60, Sorry for your g-lader gone. I would like to ask you a couple of questions though, if it's okay. Having a G60 myself, I would like to know this: - Exactly what oil have you used? (Brand, viscosity and type) - How many miles between changing oil? - bearing types? - big and small belt type? - Did you also change the oilfilter (original, not another brand)? - Did you change the oil after the winter? (possibly having store the car) - Have you looked at or changed the oil feed line to the g-lader? - Have you put on a cotton gauze airfilter like K&N, Sparco, Green, etc, or an original paperfilter in the box? - In what state and how many miles did your oilpump do? - Original or other seals in the G-lader? And the grease too? - smaller or standard pulley-wheel for the G-lader? - Did you always with no exception, warm up the engine to normal oil operating temp, before giving more throttle? (say 95 degrees Celsius) - Wrong porting, for example in the outlet, where there's a small oilpassage, in the starweb shape. All of this can destroy the g-lader. It is not sure that one or more causes of these did it, but it's much morelikely to happen because of this. I hope you find a good charger. I myself wouldn't want a turbo, but prefer a charger, but that is just me. g-laders can, afaik, be bought still brand new. Same goes for the part that went dead on yours. Hope you solve it ;) Cheers, Redfox -
Question: What did you guys do to keep it dustfree when dyeing and clearcoating your seats? I've cleaned up everything 7 times, and still get small dustparticles in the final layer. It's got all old stuff cleaned off, very well cleaned, softness treated, durability treated, adhesion treated, 5 layers of black plus 2 sprayed layers of black, 1 sprayed gloss layer with extra x-linker strengh treatment, plus 3 layers of matt clearcoat with extra x-linker strengh treatment. 15 layers in total. Damn dust :scratch: And I may add that this project is not exactly cheap as I had to buy the x-large set plus a lot of aditional stuff. Here is a picture of a finalized rear seat, no crazing, no cracks, no worn stuff, and very very nice matt black. Apart from a few dust particles, I am overly satisfied. Hmm, I may have to do it all over again, if more dust comes into play. Any ideas? [ATTACH=CONFIG]53057[/ATTACH] Much appreciated. Cheers, Redfox.
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Small update, I've grown real tired of ugly looking stereos (head units) so as the on/off button have gone lazy too, and contact cleaner did not help it, I had to search for a decent looking all black, no bling bling, no motorfront, no alien display, no mp3 ****, no-nonsense head unit pref from Blaupunkt or nak. So just got me a brand new Blaupunkt CD36 Malaga, and an extra for spare. No tare off front, and really nicely laid out. Plays well too (I am not into car-stereo, only living room HiFi). It even plays better than my precious Blaupunkt and JVC h.u. ;) It also have a very intuitive controlling, and a turning knob for the volume, so I din't have look at it, while driving, and changing something at it. Green light all over, so fits exactly with the original green light in the Corrado. Very satisfied. [ATTACH=CONFIG]52965[/ATTACH] Cheers, Redfox
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Hmmmm, got one yeaterday, I was parking the Corrado just outside the windows of the carshop to go in and get some better mainbeam bulbs. When I came in the sjop, the owner smiled and said that my car was a real rare sight and it looked very good indeed ;) So bought some exkra H7 bulbs for the long beams as well ;) It's been 2 months since I washed the Corrado, so it was relatively clean with only 6 fresh layers of McGuiars wax and a quick tyre and window cleaning too. It imediately made me go home and do some more work on the recolouring of my other Recaro cabin. Cheers, Redfox.
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Good sounding head unit with no bling bling or out of this earth design.
Redfox replied to Redfox's topic in ICE 'n' Secure
Thanks all, I'll be on the lookout for that then. Cheers, Redfox -
It dont mean a thing if your C is bling bling or does it?
Redfox replied to G60Jet's topic in General Car Chat
Mglp! Didn't see that. I was searching on specific things, and this came up. Anyway, many Corrado's will have changed hands since then, so maybe it's time to ask again ;) as trends in styling etc. change a lot over the years as well. Cheers, Redfox. -
It dont mean a thing if your C is bling bling or does it?
Redfox replied to G60Jet's topic in General Car Chat
Not into looks, neither outside nor inside. Just "upgraded" a black and silver head unit to an all black one with green display and absolutely no bling bling at all. That's a performance upgrade look-wise for me ;) Now, suspension and handleing, that is a different matter. Not slammed to undrivability, but to drive really well and an added bonus is a lower car, as I think most cars on this planet are wayyyy too high/tall in the first place. Lightweight wheels helps the steering, propper bushes, struttower bars and arb's that actually works is good too, but a rollcage is prob. too much (for now). result: Performance, not looks ;) Cheers, Redfox. -
Good sounding head unit with no bling bling or out of this earth design.
Redfox replied to Redfox's topic in ICE 'n' Secure
Points taken, thanks. Since car is not exactly the best room to listen in, I just want okay nice sounding cd-playback on the standard slots/placeings. (single h.u. and speakers). What is the converters on the nak model. There's been one cd45 for sale around me, but just sliped me. Is it a decent Burr Brown or just some unified something, or a lousy Bour Brown? Id it also a decent mosfet amp or something else interesting? Anyway for now I got myself a brand new Blaupunkt Malaga cd36. I know, a cheap one, but lookswise it's perfect, form/function is also better than other I've had, and all is black ;) No bling/silver crap at all !!! ;) ;) ;) It actually plays better than my Blaupunkt Mp27 and JVC KD-S70R and some sonys etc I have either had or tried. Funny. Anyway, I am still looking out for a better model head unit. Single cd, radio, amp, no bling bling, black, easy to use, and stable plus green display. Am a bit of HiFi nerd myself, and been listening for over 29 years to all sots of quality gear, incl. all my own ;) For example I spend over ½ hour to calibrate each side of each individual tapeside when recording on my Tandberg TCD-3014a. I gurantee you it outperforms most fairly good cd's. Anyway I listen to LP's and CD's. Mp-crap is out in eternity for me. Download is also a foreign word I don't understand. Bass can contrary to what many says, well be heard in stereo, so subs and alike is out of the equation. ;) Just my two-p. lastly: I must admit that the wheel knob for colume is a real pleasure to use on the Blaupunkt. on my former Golf, I put in a decent h.u, quality HiFi speaker cables, Fat quality cable from battery to radio, Monster plugs and spades with 24 carat gold plating, a mixture of speakers (only the 6 standard placements), which also included infinity and JBL, and it played okay, but surely I can hear the Corrado playing better now, which is a noce surprice. I will therefore ask what are the best speakers for replacing the standard ones? (only for standard placement)? No detatchable face is okay for me, as I am being really anal about not leaving my Corrado when it's outside. How about the Audi Concert II? Here's a picture of my new Blaupunkt cd36: [ATTACH=CONFIG]52741[/ATTACH] Thanks all, Redfox -
Hmm... What does right hand drive mean? I wonder why on Earth one would do that? :afro: all right, I stand down ;) Very nice car. That clima-tronic is surely a nice thing ;) Cheers, redfox.
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Those T4 and 5 are not cars. They are road legal versions of that Enterprise starship from startrek ;) Cheers, Redfox
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Hmm, something is wrong. The steering wheel is on hte right side? The picture must heve been mirrored? Otherwise a nice car, with nice standard wheels and nice carpets. :smug: Redfox
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On my Laverda motorcycle, it is very important, that the downpipes are as big as the inlet tract diameter in the cylinderhead, and the diameter in the exhaust port - 36mm. Then secondly the downpipes should have as little or no bends to prevent the burnt gasses "standing" in the tubes, waiting for the valve overlap to be sucked in again, which in turn gives bad performance. Next on list is the collector which connects the three downpipes into one. This is oversized, but only to a limit, not just overly big, conical shaped, then split into two pipes of bigger sizes, into finally two silencers with the correct back pressure. the shape of the conical collector is very important, as is helps the spent gas from one cylinder extract the next portion of spent gasses and so on, leaving the complete system. This tuned system gives a lift of about 8 hp on a rolling road compared to standard system, which is only built for being silent and with little emission. The tuned system only works if you upsize the inlet tracts from the carbs and eventually also the carbs themselves. The cylinderhead is already tuned to max per factory on this particular model - 36mm from 32 mm normally. So are valve sized, shaping, angles, length, stems and weight. On top of this can be chosen two other set of cams. This description is based on lots of development and testing and is optimal. The factory 3-1 race system is absolutely crap in comparison. So is the original 3-2 compared to this described system. Enough about that. But I just wrote it to demonstrate, that it works as a system, and that one thing is not always relevant for performance in middle range as used on road driving/ top end for race driving. Weight is surely always a nice thing, and lots of kilos can be saved by chosing a specific system. I would or rather will also bolt on a banana manifold when I get around to it. I personally would prefer to save a lot of kilos all the time. But not to the point of it breaking though. The original second rearmost silencer on my G60 is enourmously heavy... ;( for example. So, what is the lightest and best system for a G60 with a better cam (not race, more like tuned road cam), and a little better tuned system, cooling, and intake plus 70mm wheel or little bit modified G-lader? Not wanting and exploadable motoer in a season ;) Is 2,5" all the way plus cat enough? Two or three silencers? Cheers, Redfox.