seanl82

Ok, finally got round to taking some photos. Everything is back together and fitted now apart from the brake MC which is away at Pastparts for refurb. Hopefully should have it back in the next week or so. Brake lines are Kunifer with stainless fittings all round, Goodridge black hoses with stainless fittings, every nut, bolt, clip, washer, bearing, bush, cable etc has been replaced with new. All metal work has been either replaced with new, or blasted & powdercoated. The underside was cleaned within an inch of its life but after doing the spot repairs around the mounting studs for the clips, I wasn't happy with the attempt at feathering in the fresh underseal and giving it the factory look overspray so I just went ahead and spray painted the whole lot. I've refitted the factory side repeaters, rear wiper, and replaced the centre console for a better condition one. The little rod clip on the drivers side for the door pin/door mechanism had broken too, so that's been replaced but moving it all around and coupled with the new door seals I fitted after the respray has made it a bit firmer when pulling the door handle. I've ordered a pair of stainless handle repair kits as a bit of a preemptive fix, as I don't want to be having to rip the door card to shreds if it does break! I've also fitted a spare inlet manifold that had been vapour blasted and replaced a ton of nuts, bolts, pipe clamps, clutch master & slave cylinder in the engine bay so it's looking good in there. Just need a bit of a clean to remove the dust on the chassis legs. I've had all the lights & grille out so it's nice and clean behind them. I Have a new accelerator cable on its way too after it snapped at Bruntingthorpe a few years back, so was being held on at the peddle with a bit of choc block! Lol. First time the cover has been fully off in about two years, and I never had a cover when it was in the old garage so paint is looking a little flat, but nothing a good machine polish won't fix! All new filters & fluids have also been put in, and the BMC filter has been cleaned and oiled. As soon as I get the MC it'll be fitted, brake fluid put in and all bled, put back on its wheels (that also have new Yoko boots & genuine centre caps) then it'll be time to fire up (or at least attempt to) for the first time in almost 4 years! A bit nervous if I'm honest. I'll take the fuel pump relay out and build oil pressure first, but I'm just hoping the fuel pump or ABS pump hasn't seized up as it's been so long. Anyway, pics! 😁

I got Advan Flava v701 via blackcircles. They were £76 each fitted but I've just checked and they're NLA, though they list the Advan HF but they're £130 each! Manufacturing date is 5219 so I reckon I probably got the last set of the batch.

Great decision James, always a bonus when people take the option of investing time in restoring them rather than the easy way out. Absolutely agree about the custodian bit too! 😁👍

Not Toyos Cressa, Yokohama.

Got some new boots today. Full set of Yoko's fitted, just waiting for my brake MC back so I can get them all bled and back on her feet for the first time in over 2 years! Once that's done, it'll be time to attempt the first fire up in almost 4 years! 😬

I've got one of those too. Was hoping it would be better than an e-z bleed. 😬 Will be using it for the first time when I get my MC back in the next couple of weeks hopefully. Might be worth checking the fluid in the reservoir, when I used a e-z bleed last time, it was introducing a lot of air into the fluid at the reservoir side. Thought it could have been to do with either too high pressure, or a leak so sucking in air somewhere within the pressure side.

Just received mine thanks Cressa! Not sure Corrado ownership and happiness should be mentioned in the same sentence! LolBut a nice personal touch all the same. Thanks again mate, very much appreciated. 👍

I'm assuming the 109 is for 'plus axle'. It's referring to VR6 wide track so should be the one to fit if yours was originally a VR, though with a smaller & lighter TDI lump it may be a little firmer.

The windscreen issue may be worse than feared. They often rot underneath the seal so it needs cutting out and replacing with new metal. Factor in paint and it's quite a big/expensive job. A lot of your issues with running are likely to be due to the Eaton charger. I don't have any experience with them so can't say too much, though its likely to need mapping to suit, if that's even possible with stock management. The fact that it passed the brake load test at MOT is concerning judging by what you've said about them too. Rear calipers are known to seize, but you mention ABS - is the light on? (Should have been another red flag at MOT), but it could be an indication of any of the ABS components being duff. Best case a wheel speed sensor, worst case pump.

👍

Still have mine. I've actually just changed back to original and I'll see how I get on, but it may be for sale soon if I'm comfortable enough with the stock throw.

They're often broken at the sides where the stereo has been in and out. It's a bit of a faff getting the connectors tucked out of the way so when it's pulled back out at an offset angle and with a bit too much force, they end up breaking as they're long and thin on those side bits. (Ask me how I know!) Lol. I was looking for a decent one for about 2 years, then managed to get on with just a single heater tab broken that came up on eBay starting at £25. No one else bid so I got a bit of a bargain! Just fitted it last weekend too. 😁

If you look on Zap7VW it details cut length for each pipe. You'll obviously have to bend it after but as said before, you can use the old one as a template

No worries. Definitely don't need lower on the rear, can't say 100% upper but I'm pretty sure you don't. I have no receipts for them and they look near new so I don't think I re-used the ones from the Weitecs that were on before. (Sorry, it was 6 years ago that I fitted them and my memory isn't the best!).

Bump stops (191512131b) and dust covers (don't have PN for these) for rear. The part number for the spring top plates is 1H0412341. Looking through receipts has reminded me that you need the rear spring top rubber buffer too. 1H0512149. That should be it mate. As far as suppliers, I've not heard of carstyling so it's your risk I suppose. I got mine from Demon Tweeks and they were fantastic in getting me the correct rear springs as mine turned out wrong too. 👍

As above, I can't remember which part number for top plates you need. Let me know if you want it in advance and I'll dig it out for you, but it states it in the instructions anyway. You'll also need bump stops and dust covers as they don't come with them. In addition, check you have the correct rear springs as lots were sent out with the incorrect type (PN# should end 2002 instead of 2003 iirc).

Wowsers! You'd have to be pretty desperate at that price surely! Ian did an awesome job on mine for a fraction of that. The plastic parts cleaned up pretty well too in a bath of bleach.

I wouldn't be prepared to travel there based on my location tbh. North Wales or North West of England buyers may well be though. Ireland isn't exactly a small country either so there is potential. I don't know costs for registration in the UK or ferry costs, but either way it doesn't mean the car is scrap! As already mentioned, 2 - 2.5k would be my estimate. Bear in mind I bought my car for £1250, and had spent far more than it was worth restoring it (though probably even now with current prices). I never did it for the money though. I love the cars, and it's a hobby working on them. How much would I have spent over the past 9 years of ownership if I played golf on memberships, fees, new clubs etc!? (which incidentally don't appreciate in value).

Indeed. That's what sets this community apart from most others, you don't get looked down on for not having a near mint example. It's about appreciation of model and the pleasure of the drive. Enthusiasm for working on it really does help too! (Though it can wear thin sometimes!) Lol

No not from factory, should be an early bonnet for 1991 so must have been replaced in the past. May or may not be an issue depending on why it was replaced, without really looking at the car that's hard to judge. The bonnet is open in the pics that's why there's a large gap. I'm with you on the gear knob though, not my cup of tea but then two of my Corrados have had aftermarket gearknobs fitted (until I replaced them back to OE), doesn't really mean anything it's just like replacing the steering wheel and down to personal taste.

I've got one but it's not in great condition. A couple of fixing tabs broken and snapped at the side (but crudely repaired). Not sure what condition your current one is like but if you're desperate, I can get a couple of pics tomorrow if you like.

Why? Ok it's a KR, but aside from a wing and bit of paint on the front bumper it doesn't look that bad. It's been off the road for a number of years granted and it's not a great ad, but that doesn't mean it's unsalvageable, far from it. Some people want a project and will be happy to pay 2 -2.5k (which is my estimate of it from the pics) for something they can slowly restore. It's not always about end gain, appreciation or the investment, it's about enjoying the hobby and someone will only have a budget that will stretch so far to begin with. It's a decent enough starter for someone and if they swap the Recaros for a set of leather in fair condition, it'll look like a bargain. I've been in ownership long enough to know what can and can't be done with a bit of knowhow and enthusiasm.

More than that I reckon. Set of standard leather on Facebook at the moment for £1200!!!!! 😲

Kunifer is a bit stronger than copper so a good middle ground between copper & steel. You don't necessarily need stainless unions if you get good quality ones, but the cheap electroplated ones don't last 5 minutes. I had a cheap flaring tool that gave mixed results, but borrowed one like this that was really good. https://www.frost.co.uk/3-16in-sae-flaring-tool-set/ I wouldn't bother with a bending tool in all honesty unless you really fork out for one, as the can be bent by using the radius of a socket or something much better and using you original as a template. Mine are all on now and look good everywhere apart from around the ABS pump unfortunately, as it's difficult to get it fitted and weaved in between other things around that area without bending the pipe slightly and deforming it slightly from the original shape. Definitely worth a try and a 25ft roll would provide plenty for a bit of trial and error first if you're only replacing a couple of pipes.

Ok great, did you find the coolant leak or is that your first item on the agenda? If still an issue, how much is it leaking, and can you see any evidence of it dropping anywhere and where is it approximately?