seanl82

Is that a new expansion tank as well Martin? MK4 type?

Thanks mate, makes sense. Can't believe how lucky you got with that fire damaged one, absolute bargain with the options it had. 👍

Great stuff! Did you do the gearbox bits yourself Martin?

I'd say toe first, though the camber will put it out slightly whilst adjusting but toe is easier to correct and will only need a minor tweak afterwards.

The synchromeshes are known to be weak, so if shifting down from 2-1 whilst the gearbox is still spinning, you will get the jerk or clunk of its had it. Common for 1 to reverse and 2-3 as well as these gears see the most torque.

Bentley says -1° for camber. When I had mine done on a Hunter though, the system said -1.5°. I told them to aim for -1°, though they couldn't really manage it very well so still need to get it done again as I'm not overly happy with it.

The Mercury ones didn't look great tbh. Ford Fiesta (can't remember which years) fit as well apparently.

Good to hear it was a quick and easy fix. 👍 Bit of a bugger there on the rear axle, but at least there is good access and it won't throw your geometry out if it was a millimeter or two out. Moving along nicely. 😉

I can bring up most historic threads when searching Google, though a lot come through Tapatalk so you may need to install that to be able to view them. Toobes or whatever his name is seems to have done a disappearing act since taking the initial wave of joiners. If the CCGB bought back the forum, it really would leave this site with nothing to offer. I feel like we're getting nothing for our money here at the moment. Can't say I'm particularly happy with the way this site is being run, and I know it's only £15 but that's not the point.

Yeah has been 3 previous members. The second of those bought it up to show standard, but it's been round the houses since then with shithouse dealers. Still looks in very good shape though.

There is a metal circlip holding it in, that's it. Once that's removed, either give it a good tug (ooh er!) To release it from the vacuum, or apparently if you pump the brake pedal that works too. Very quick and simple. The longest part of it is removing the inlet elbow for access. 👍

Speed sensor will always show up with the engine not running. If it's almost immediately cutting out it suggests immobiliser, though that should show up on VCDS as well. Is fuel pressure good?

"No real rust to speak of, apart from a 6" hole on the passenger sill". 🙄

I had the wrong set too. I don't recall it sitting too low though, but it was much firmer from what I remember. I did have to run them for a couple of months, and on replacement the bump stops and covers were undamaged. I tried to sort the replacement springs myself, only to be met with the absolute worst customer services in Bilstein I've ever experienced. I got onto Demon Tweeks who supplied them to me and they were amazing, getting them sent out within 2 weeks direct from Eibach.

It's not so much the going back, as the coming forward that's the issue. It's common for the mechanism to break on the LH side and start raising as it gets halfway closed so scratches the panel. As mentioned, do it manually then remove the motor but leave the cable connected, and try it without the load of the mech to see if it works.

Welcome to the forum and congrats! Looks tidy that. I do like a sherry pearl I've got to admit! 👍

That's where the pump is - sandwiched in a styrofoam casing. Could be that you have a minor leak somewhere so it's continuing to run....

See I thought the point of a supercharger was that it's constantly turning and therefore no lag - meaning power delivery is much more linear compared to a turbo which lags low down....

The Bentley is the best we can hope for too. Some are lucky enough to have dealer manuals but they're few and far between. The Bentley is pretty good TBF, and the wiring diagrams are accurate so shouldn't present any problems for you. There were slight differences in early and late looms and 93 was the last for early, so you should be ok using the 94 diagrams.

I'll confirm if I'll be in attendance early next week mate. Won't be staying overnight but happy to spend a good few hours there and enjoy a nice roast dinner! 👍

Temped to make the 2 1/2 trip actually. In the interest of long distance road testing, obviously...... 😁

Top man James, great to see you're cracking on with it and (hopefully) the worst has been dealt with. A long and manotonous road for the bodywork, at least it's the school holidays and you can rope the kids in! Best of luck mate, glad it's in your capable hands. 👍

Good find and best of luck with this one. The paint on your white one looks incredible so always good to know you have a very competent body shop to deal with that stuff. Shame the same can't be said about auto electricians, that looks a right mess and reminds me of mine when I bought mine. Lots of electrical gremlins due to previous bodges and awful stereo and alarm installs. I'd see if you can get a few looms from breakers and just replace what you can in its entirety. That way it makes it easier and quicker, and gives you the peace of mind knowing it's unlikely to occur again. Good to know it's in capable hands (not that I'm saying previous owners weren't capable) but you'll give it the time and work it needs to get it back on the road. Think the KR or ABF cams will bring it to life too. 👍

Changed the fuel supply pipe from the filter as the hard pipe to rubber hose connector was a little rough. Just need the one from tank to filter now and underside complete.

There is no difference in lift or duration for any of the VR6 cams, the top end is effectively the same with only difference throughout being the cam pickup between early (dizzy) and late (coilpack). The bottom end is where the difference lays, ands it's only in displacement with the 2.9 being marginally bigger bore. The inlet manifolds differ and obviously management, and this is more to do with emissions and mapping.