A1 VR6
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Everything posted by A1 VR6
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Take another look Cazza and count the divisions and look at the position of the needle stop. Iused to think the same :)
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That's idling at about 5000 rpm which isn't that much lower than it should. Great colour by the way Scarlet Lol!
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Hopefully I've attached the original VAG diagram for Corrado heated seats
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Check this thread http://www.the-corrado.net/.archive/forum/viewtopic.php?t=52702
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Driven a few of these and the only complaint I have is that you feel your sitting on rather than in them. Could do with more seat adjustment available. Other than that very good cars to drive.
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Good call Cazza, had exactly the same problem about 3 years ago, cleaned the ISV and problem solved.
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Hi Glen, Like you I've not wired in the heating. I have got the VAG wiring diagram for heated seats and some of it is hard-wired into the fuse box. I can scan the relevant documents and send them to you if you like. PM me if you want them. Bill
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Had mine done for £150 - already removed from car. That was about 4 years ago but still dont think they'd cost £400 now. Does seem a bit steep.
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True jedi-knight but MK4's have an old engine. Had a Leon Cupra tdi 150 fitted with a tuning box - don't know what the output was but it used to make the clutch slip. Now got MK5 140 with tuning box - far superior car and got 185bhp and just under 300 torque at stealth. Both return an easy 50 mpg but the Golf is a better drive. Also drove a MK5 GT tdi 170 the other day - felt slow compared to mine but would be awesome with a tuning box or rechip.
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You got a hidden agenda Cazza trying to get people to defect - how many handfuls of rice a day you been promised Lol!
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If you had an air lock you should have pressure as the air in the air lock when hot would expand causing pressure in the system. To bleed leave the engine running with the cap off and your heater control set to hot. Should do the trick but if I was you I'd consider changing the cap which could be knackered or checking the expansion tank for a split which may only leak under pressure when hot. HTH
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VW's own quantum silver semi-synthetic is top oil for the money - think about £15 from dealer but you can get it cheaper if you shop around.
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IMO a standard corrado is the best driver's car of those you mention. I've had several Mk2 16v's and if you fit ARB's, koni's etc it probably shades the 'C' but do that to the 'C' to level the playing field and your ahead again - its quoted as one of the best handling FWD cars ever. If your doing motorway driving at the speeds you talk about the VR will be just as economical as the 1.8 16v because it revs higher. The VR is just perfect for cruising quietly on the motorway and is very comfortable on long trips. Also a Mk2 seems a bit primitive inside compared to a Corrado but ok if you don't mind that. If I was buying a 16v for this it would be the Mk3, easily tuned to 175 bhp and once you sort the suspension it's a very good car if you can stand the looks. If you want a Corrado 16v go for the later 2.0 practically same engine as the Mk3 Golf 16v - best compromise IMO if you must have a 16v.
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Sorry to hear about this John - hope you get a result on this one!
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Imitation is the sincerest form of flattery Jay Lol!
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Can't deny that the Mk4 R32 is the better looking car but whenever I see a Mk5 R32 on the road it does have presence and as I've owned a MK4 Golf, Leon Cupra and now have a Mk5 Golf I think the Mk5 is a quantum leap in so many respects. Best Golf made since the Mk2 IMHO. Try them all Nige and you won't fail to be impressed by a Mk5.
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Quite agree M15 VW!
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Nice car, owned by Daz King --must be selling, not on the forum but lives Bounemouth - Corozin knows him well.
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I'm Scottish but live in Essex now - guess that doesn't count though. Craigowl, my family still live in Winchburgh - never driven the 'C' up, usually my other car - Mk5 2.0 Tdi at the mo.
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£20k and the 4 pot calipers are now optional? Were great value cars for the money - not any more Nige.
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Great news - but still think there's insufficient numbers of police on the roads to enforce it properly so will it really make a huge difference - don't think so.
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Long time since I did this so just cheked on EKTA and the allen bolts are only on the rear bolting the carrier to the hub.
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A 7mm allen key socket is only needed to remove the caliper carrier which the caliper is bolted to. If you're only doing the pads you don't need to remove this. Oh and safety first - use axle stands and don't rely just on a jack.
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Thanks Corradude, didn't win but I'll keep looking.
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There are a set of BBS RS301's on German E-Bay http://www.ebay.de item no. 270076069960 I've run it through babelfish but it doesn't translate well and I'm unable to understand the detail of the ad. Any help in translating much appreciated.