stormseeker

Light Blue metallic M*** VSL spotted on Edge Lane, Liverpool, outside Marconi (opposite Maplins). Didn't notice (I was on foot) until you'd stopped at the lights near Carphone Warehouse when you were just too far away for me to decide if you were 16V/VR6... anyone on here???

ETKA just say "water deflector 191 819 415 C (lhd) 192 819 415 C (rhd)! No diagrams or anyfink of the difference between the two....

RHD part number is 192 819 415 C :-)

Best check for a RHD version first ;-)

There was only ever a flimsy half-hearted cover over the ECU end - looks pants in there doesn't it! Mine's painted inside, but only just - some primed bits are peeping through here and there. You can get a golf full length cover to fit, but it requires some cutting and warming/melting/bending - there's a guide on Oichan's site http://www.oichan.org ... I think Guy Hartely fitted a carbon fibre one to his storm - and he's going to inters.....

C2.9 ABV ?

ETKA = VW electronic parts catalogue on a PC = to get the part number....

This isn't you flogging 'em on ebay is it Kev ;-) :?: http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll? ... 85494&rd=1

Sorry to be a party pooper Scott, but at 4k rpm you'll only just be making 170-ish BHP, power peaks at approx. 5500 rpm. More importantly torque peaks around 4200rpm.... :evil:

Phat, as an aside, does changing the final drive throw the speedo out? Or is the sensor on the output side? :?

Sounds like either cable snagging/throttle body jamming or something in the footwell/under the pedal stopping you getting full throttle! VAG-COM will tell you the throttle angles as measured by the TPS - should be less than 14 degrees at idle/throttle closed and over 90 degrees at wide open....

:cry: and :shock: and mainly JEALOUSY

See - http://the-corrado.net/.archive/forum/viewtopic. ... highlight=

If I had the cash (and if it existed!) I'd go for something really subtle like "50 ABV" or "ABV 50" (ABV=2.9 VR6, 50=Corrado's VW chasis code...8-) ;-) )

I think Clifford Alarms work with the VW Key, but I'm not sure if you have re-programme the Alarm to match the key, or the key to match the alarm... :?

Not on a Corrado, but nice side on shots... http://escort.accelerator.org/images/pr ... ew_OZ2.jpg http://escort.accelerator.org/images/pr ... ew_OZ4.jpg http://escort.accelerator.org/images/pr ... ew_OZ6.jpg http://escort.accelerator.org/images/pr ... ew_OZ1.jpg

http://www.chavscum.co.uk/ ??? :lol:

I was very lucky a few years ago to have a guided tour round the TVR factory (the term "factory" I use very loosely, perhaps a better description would be "bunch of sheds, shacks and leans to's" :shock: ) and reference was made to Corrado mirrors in the 3D design room where they had a life size foam/clay/wood model they were woking on.... Other astonishing thing (apart from how they turn out such nice looking cars from such a dump!) was the engine assembly room, full of Land Rover boxes/parts (when they used to use the Land Rover V8...) Actual guy I visted was the head electronic designer, responsible for the door switch under the mirror, boot opening on the rear badge and keyless start systems used in the Chimaera I think....

Good job it's quiet at work today...

When I was changing the front eng. mount last week, I removed the airbox and all the intake plumbing. The amount of oil that had been introduced from the rocker breather valve since I changed the water pump (Approx. 1400 miles) in Feb. made me think that maybe a catchtank might be a good idea... I fancy having a go at one of these... just need to work out where to locate it on the Corrado... Hmmmm :? Not much room round that end of the engine... and nice and hot near the exhaust too :? The instructions below were pinched from a write up by my mate with the Prelude VTEC (remember him at the Dubsport Rolling Road day...) ============================================================================================= OK then, by popular demand - here's how to make your own DIY oil catch tank for about 10pounds. First of all - the bottle, which cost me the princely sum of 8 pounds! The other items you will need are these male to male brake line couplers. These cost 1 pound each from my local motor factors. The first thing to do is to cut the handle off the cap of the bottle, and drill a hole through the top of the cap and the side of the bottle, about a quarter of the way down. Next, apply some hylomar (or other) sealant to the fittings, and bolt them in the side of the bottle and the top of the cap. Now you will need to decide where the tank is going to fit. The location you choose should be close to the existing route of the PCV piping to prevent long unsightly pipe runs, but you also need to have something conveniently close to bolt the tank securely to. Having decided on the location, you need to make a bracket. Here's mine. I used jubilee clips to clamp the bracket to the bottle, with a layer of self amalgamating tape between the bottle and the clips to prevent scratching and provide a better grip. If you can't find self amalgamating tape, you could use thick elastic bands or electrical tape. Here's the bracket and bottle assembled. Now it's time to mount the bottle and pipe it up. The piping is really quite simple, the hose from the PCV valve in the head goes into the side of the bottle, and the pipe from the plenum attaches to the cap of the bottle. I used the original Prelude pipe to connect the PCV valve to the bottle, and used another bit of pipe I had lying around to connect the bottle cap to the plenum. Make sure you use proper vacuum pipe, other types may collapse under vacuum! Thats it! Enjoy! ==============================================================================================

Didn't really notice Corrados until the press started to rave about the VR6 when it was released in 1992. At the time I was driving a Pug 205 GTI 1.9, and slowly but surely the Corrado bug got worse, saw a Storm at a dealers in 1995 and new I had to have one.... Time came to change the Pug, but I made a big mistake and listened to the missus and bought a Land Rover Discovery TDi in 1998 :oops: :oops: :oops: (Babies on the way... etc.) - talk about from the sublime to the ridiculous.... I was slightly put off a VR6 at the time by some stupid grease-mokey-tyre-changing-fekwitt who told me that "they're not much faster than yer 205 you know" and like a fool I took his word without actually driving one :roll: -2nd mistake! Anyway, the Corrado itch never got scratched and never went away until I read some article in the Times late 2002/early 2003 about Golf VR6 prices being very reasonable, so started to consider a Golf VR6 as a second car.... then thought "feck it" why not do it properly and go for a Corrado VR6... Started to look at prices on AutoTrader - found a '96 N reg. in Feb 2003 at a small specialist dealer in the Midlands, went to look at it and could tell straight away that altough it had had 5 previous owners it had been well looked after, 83k on the clock, big blue folder with some VWSH/some specialist SH/every receipt... Contacted the last 2 owners, got the loan ( :roll: ) and handed over the cash.... went to pick her up on Valentines day and never looked back....

It's only a pickup coil for a toothed disc that rotates with the crank, can't see stainless steel having such a different inductance (or whatever!) to a mild steel bolt to the extent that it would affect pickup ??? At 840 it might be out of range but that would just affect the resolution? Anyway the proof of the pudding is in your mate's sensor..... From the VR6 tech-doc floating around the internet the ECU recognises an implausible signal when the crank postion and cam position sensors don't correspond - are your cams all timed in correctly (ducks for cover...) ....

If it is knackered there's always the Ford Galaxy option.... Although it should still be providing some input to the ECU shurely :?

without another one to compare it with who knows if thats enough to upset the ECU - at least it's not dis.

Test for G28 (Eng. Speed Sensor) from Bentley... 26 Engine speed sensor (G 28 ) 3-pin connector (white) near starter - 67 + 68 - - 500 to 700 Ohms 56 + 67 - - Infinite Ohms (open) 56 + 68 - - Infinite Ohms (open)