Dec

Yup, check the plugs + HT leads and the distributor cap + connections to the hall sender / coil etc. Check for a spark by plugging a spark plug into one of the HT leads and earthing it on the inlet manifold while you turn the engine over. Less likely but also worth checking: check around the airbox for loose pipes and leaks. And take the top off the box to make sure the fuel regulator flap is moving freely.

Phew!! That's good to know!! One less problem to look into!

I'm only working my way though the wiring, and getting the new MS unit (I decided to upgrade from the v3.0 to the v3.57) set-up tbh. But that sounds like what it could be! 8) After going through the hall sender wiring and getting a brand new dizzy. I fitted a pull-up resistor across the hall sender signal and 12v wires, and was turning the dizzy by hand while watching for an ignition pulse on the MS board. It only flashed for every 5th hall sender window that passed the senser, and the fuel pump buzzed for a sec. It was then that I tried to see what would happen when I turned it over at a reasonable speed on the starter motor.......then I got my nice little starter motor / ignition switch issue, that I have just figured out. The MS is still only very basically set-up with just the major parameters set. I was basically just looking for the ignition pulse to start off with.

Will do! Was thinking you may have quite a lot to sort out before heading to Germany. Got it turning over again with a bit of poking about with a screwdriver :camp:. It's not an ideal way to do things, and I don't think whatevers left of the mech will last too long that way though. Now to try and figure out why I'm only getting an ignition pulse every 5th trigger from the hall sender. :roll:

I don't like this talk of it all going wrong!! :lol: :tongue: Good to know though Stu! I did look at your breaking thread, but I thought the lock mech was gone, as you just had the steering column advertised without it.

Cheers! :salute:

Here are the offending items! The L shaped bit at the end of the key barrel And the part it mates into in the lock mech. It's the white plastic part in the centre. Actually looks better than it really is in the photo. I cant see how it could be removed from the mech itself though?

Cheers for the info! :wink: Drilled the ignition barrel out and the problem is indeed in the lock mech. There is a plastic 'L' shaped piece on the mech that rotates when the matching 'L' shaped bit on the ignition barrel is turned. The plastic bit on the mech itself is pretty worn and more C than L shaped. :roll: Could get a voltage at the starter when I turned the mech with a flat head screwdriver, but I guess the key barrel cant make a good enough contact with the worn part.

:lol: to the rescue again! :tongue: Without knowing what these things look like on the inside. Would it be the mech itself, or my key barrel that could/would be at fault? Didn't realise that the mech was still good after having the barrel drilled out though. That's handy to know!

Well it looks like it's definitely the actual lock mechanism itself (assuming I the brand new ignition switch doesn't have exactly the same potential 'fault' as the one I mistakenly removed) :brickwall: I made a few custom heavy duty jumpers and bypassed the ignition switch + lock mech and got a perfect 12v at the starter solenoid when I connected the battery. Now to get a new lock + steering lock mech :roll:

Starter is pretty new, so should be ok. Prob is that with the key turned to the 'crank' position, it isn't getting 12v to the starter solenoid to even activate the starter motor itself!

This car is starting to try my patience! :mad2: It started acting up, where the starter motor would only turn over after a couple of seconds with the key held in the 'crank' position. This gradually got worse, until it refused to turn over at all. I checked the plug on the starter solenoid and it wasn't getting 12v with the key turned. Fine! I thought, new ignition switch required. Changed that (pain in the backside).....and it still made no difference!!! Next place I looked was the immobilser/alarm. When I unpeeled the insulation tape around where it had been spliced into the original Corrado loom, I found out that it was a complete mess. Looks like the alarm was installed by a blind person with no hands! :roll: So I removed the entire loom, and I've removed the immob+alarm and done a temp repair job on the standard loom. Re-installed it checked all the connections.....and it still wont turn over!! :censored: :censored: I have continuity on the wire leading from the ignition switch and the solenoid on the starter, so that isn't the prob. So, my only other idea is the actual key lock mech itself?!? The fuel pump primes + all the elecs come on when I turn the key to 'pos 2'.....but is it possible that the lock mech is not activating the ignition switch when turned to the 'crank' position? :scratch:

Never seem one of them for sale tbh! Saw someone who had made a custom diy one out of two butchered standard grilles though, quite a neat job too.

Small length of wire with 1cm or so of the insulation peeled back on both ends. Just Remove the plug from the gearbox and connect the two pins in the plug together with the section of wire. Basically simulates engaging reverse. Reverse lights 'should' come on.....and if they do it's your reverse light switch on the gb that's dead.

I know kinda know what you're saying! I've only owned Corrados (8-9 of them now) in valver form unfortunately, and after driving Golfs and Ventos in Vr6 form I'd say there is no competition in sheer "chuckability" form. But yes....obviously for straight line speed and noise there is no presence like a Vr6 (and I do really need to try out a Vr6 rado). Also I think the KR engine is Very underrated, I've never had a single prob of any sort with any of mine with all the thousands and thousands of miles I've put on them, and they are amongst the oldest of rado engines. They always got about 35mpg average, cost almost nothing to service...I put a few hundred miles on one with very little oil in it (not my fault), and it didn't complain at all! and they also sound quite nice once let them get past 4k Rpm. But on the other hand, my old Scirocco GT Mk2, was soooooo much more fun to drive than any of the Corrados I've owned (after I had rebuilt the suspension, driveline components etc). It weighed practically nothing, and you could throw it into any sort of corner and it would behave impeccably, but the engine was also completely gutless. Other downside was that I dropped the front so far that when we took it on a tear up/down the Col de Turini the wheels tore the crap out of the plastic wheel arches on every hairpin. :roll: So I guess it'd really a balance between forward weight vs power.......so I nee to try out someones G60, or get my 16vt running really! :tongue:

Ahhh nuts.....the words 'Twin Turbo'....had me spilling tea on my desk and wildly clicking the link........shock absorbers!!!....what a let down!! :tongue: :lol: :lol: Shocks look good though! Used to have those Boge shocks on mine and I cant fault them! Looked almost new when I removed them too, even though they had three years use. Get that front end assembled and on the car now! :wink: 8)

Dohh! Happy 'rest of your birthday' though! :wave:

Oh dear god! :brickwall: http://www.detailingworld.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?t=38692&highlight=Animal I assume this is a pisstake......but I wouldn't put this level of anal retentiveness past this guy! :bonk:

According to Vagcat they are the same as Mk3's and most late Mk2's. p/n: 6N0905865

Another useful guide to building one of the looms: http://www.danielsternlighting.com/tech/relays/relays.html That 'vehicle Wiring' website is very useful. The headlight plugs, and proper sized cable tags to fit into it can also be got through ARZ

Just thinking though......the Autotech list prices would include the US sales tax/Vat? As it's an export could this be deducted form the list price?

http://www.fuelsaving.info/magnets.htm :wink: Good website......the physics (of complete lack of them) behind these 'fuel saving' gimmicks!

Worth checking the motor too, it's probably quite old at this stage. I had one that died and lost all power like that. At first the bearings in the motor started to get noisy, then the fan just got really weak. 20mins work and a replacement fan and it was back to normal.

But a pretty damn fugly car! :gag:

Take the trim off the inside of the bootlid and see if anything is obviously wrong there. You shouldn't be able to hear the spoiler motor when it's operating correctly though, so by the sounds of it, it needed re-greasing. There is a knob for manually moving the spoiler right in the middle of the mech. It pulls outwards towards the front of the car, then rotating it raises/lowers the spoiler. Try this and see if it moves freely. Also get a multimeter across the terminals on the motor itself, to make sure it's getting 12v when activated.