Dec

Missed all but the last 10mins of it! So need to catch the repeat on fri, to really see what it was all about! So James May is the Stig!.....who would have thought it! :tongue: Clarkson needs to read his history books though!.....listing the battle of Jutland in his end summary thing?!?!? :scratch:

Check the reverse light switch on-top of the gearbox. It's a small plastic box with a 2 wire plug going into it just above where the gear selector cables connect. Try simply disconnecting the plug to start with, and see if the reverse lights go out.

My god! that's the worst thing I've ever seen!! :shock: :shock: :gag:

Welcome to the forum! :wave: Car looks good! I like the rims! Amazing they actually clear the front calipers with how far inboard the face of the wheel sits! :shock:

That's even more impressive considering a US gallon is just over 8/10ths of an imperial gallon!

Deffo early headlights! With the exception of one or two 'F' reg Corrados, G reg is about as early as they get! :wink:

Yup, the seats are a straight swap. As long as you have a late interior WITH and armrest! Will require a different centre tunnel, and some custom bracket work to get a rear bench with an armrest into a car that had a non-armrested late rear bench as standard.

Sweet!! I managed to talk my mother into buying a black Vrs TD which was delivered last week (dunno how I managed to convince her :tongue: )! Looking forward to going home on a visit next weekend and take it for a quick spin!

It's all one part with the rubber flexi line that joins onto the metal coil. Part number: 357721465A Costs about £30

winding up the adjustment plates raises the car, down lowers! :wink: Easiest way to measure the total drop is to get a reference distance from the wheel centre to the top of the arch before fitting the coilovers.

Yup, seen them work in a few cars now. Didn't really see the point in arguing about playschool colour mixing, when aside from the fact that it 'shouldn't' work, it is blatantly obvious that it does! :roll:

They are a bit of a nightmare to get out! I used a very small watchmakers screwdriver to push in the retaining clip from inside the plug itself, even still it took a lot of cursing and shouting at it before it finally came out! :roll:

ooops!.....just noticed you post! :lol: Couldn't do too much starting attempts as I needed the gasket for the top of the oil coolerand didn't have enough free time. Anyway, just picked up a gasket from GSF for the sum of 80p this morning, along with some fresh gearbox oil. The gearbox has only covered 11k, but I figure it has been sitting around for a while, and I may as well change the oil while I have the front of the car in the air. I've had the coolant and air temp sensors in the freezer/fridge etc, to get a good calibration band for them. The turbo in there at the moment is oil only, so doesn't need any messing with the coolant system for a water feed. Pity you are selling the TurboTechnics kit blue95, 16vt syncro would have been interesting! 8)

Tis true! Do a search on the forum, there used to be loads of threads about trying to find the right shade of green bulbs etc from years back. :wink:

:gag: :pukeright: :pukeleft: ....IMHO that RX7 is absolutely horrendous!! I am dumbfounded as to why it is getting so many votes.......just look at that ridiculous nasty sparkly star paint job on it!! :cuckoo: :shock: :brickwall:

I've done it before with a stud extractor and a pen type blow torch to heat the metal around the stud. Guess it depends on the stud itself though.

ps. a stud extractor should be able to get your snapped wheel stud out of the hub pretty easily!

You'll need wheel bolts that are 5mm longer than standard. They are available from most alloy wheels suppliers, or even Ebay etc. Just take one of your orig wheel bolts measurements to use to calculate the length of the threaded section + 5mm. And make sure you order the correct type of bolt seat. There are two main types, tapered and a rounded / convex type, and the type you need will depend on the wheels you have. iirc you had Sebrings though? So will need a tapered seat. You won't need spigot rings for small universal spacers like that, as the spigot ring in your wheel should still make contact with the ring on the hub. The spacer itself should be roughly centralised by putting the 4 wheel bolts in. 10mm hubcentric spacers are available pretty cheap though!

Think I've managed to vote 4 times now! :lol:

It wont expand by that much anyways! If it expanded by 1mm etc the paint would be cracked, as there is no way it could sustain stretching like that! :wink: Only worry would be if you hit the alloy hard enough off something to buckle it!...But if you hit a wheel that hard you would have a lot of other things to worry about anyways! :shock: :wink:

There was a group buy of empiregfx stuff here a while back, so I guess a few people may have them! I got a set of front light tints from them, and wasn't 100% happy with how they fit around the edges of the lights. It's quite a thick film, so I'd imagine that there would be a bit of a problem when it came to the edges fo the rear lights too......but I've never actually seen a set of the rears in the flesh :|

Eurocarparts do a genuine one, but it's £101 + vat, so not that much cheaper than the stealers. :| There's quite a few rados being broken on fleabay at the moment; I'm sure you could find one there? http://shop.ebay.co.uk/?_from=R40&_trksid=m38&_nkw=corrado+breaking

When I fitted mine the balance weights on the inside of the wheel were fouling the caliper too! I moved them slightly inboard, and it gives 2-3mm clearance between the caliper and the wheel, and works perfectly. I also used some 20mm H&R hub extenstions/ bolt on spacers, and that gives 3-4mm clearance between the outside face of the caliper and the inside of the spokes (but my wheels had a large ET42 offset). Again, never caused any problems, and I've seen cars with closer tolerances than that! Quite like the look of big brakes squeezed into the wheel too! 8)

Yup, the blue 'cap' is a replacement top-plate. So that sits directly against the top mount.

Most 16's should be ok with the Brembos. I have 16' RX's with mine. You will most prob need spacers with whatever wheel you use though, (16's or 17's). Does the inner diameter of the Borbets clear the caliper? And is it just the outer face of the caliper that's making contact with the inside edge of the Borbets?