Dec

Never really been a fan of aftermarket steering wheels, but that looks very good! Would be good to see the anodized black finish!

But does rule out most of Ireland....it not being in the Uk :lol:

* Gets popcorn ready! :lol: :lol:

MAte of mine bought a set (I'm pretty sure they were identical to those), and they were completely useless. Took them off the car after a few hours and resorted to the standard useless wipers! :roll:

it's in as a dent 'improver'...so prob trying to cover themselves for when it doesn't do a great job getting rid of your dent! Could be worth a try though...and if it doesn't work you get a hot glue gun out of it anyway!

They will be GS/TUV approved, so cant be too bad!

Mate of mine showed me that earlier! 8) Think I'll buy one of each come Thur! Bought a couple of things there before and I cant fault the quality of the stuff (especially at the price!! :shock: )

Spotted by a mate of mine in Dublin with Irish plates on it a few months back! http://vagdrivers.net/forums/index.php?showtopic=7446

Anyone thinking of putting an order in on this website? I'm seriously thinking of a set of new driveshafts + cv joints (only £45 each side :shock: ) and a set of Mk4 rear calipers.

The best way I can describe the way I fitted the new engine is "ancient Egyptian style" :lol: :lol: I pushed the new engine into the empty engine bay on-top of a pallet. Pulled it upright and jacked up each side by about 1cm with a pair of trolley jacks, and stuck a plank of wood between the pallet and the bottom of the engine. Then jacked it up a bit further and stuck another plank underneath, and just kept on repeating that. Took a while but eventually I got it lifted high enough to start bolting all the new mounts back on! Easiest way I found was to remove the entire engine with the gearbox still attached. I'm not sure about what differences the auto box would make though? Driveshafts require a small star head socket attachment to remove the six bolts on either side. They can be tricky to access the bolts themselves, but you see extended socket attachments for the purpose on Ebay the whole time! I removed the pas pump from the engine itself, and actually kept the entire power steering mechanism intact while removing the engine. then just bolted the old pump up to the new engine.

Can quite easily be lowered onto something without a crane! I removed the slam pannel / bumper etc. Put the front of the car up on axle stands. Disconnected the driveshafts and everything else going to the engine. Unbolted the the engine / gearbox mounts, then stuck a big fat tyre under the engine and lowered the car back onto its wheels. with a bit of shoving the engine sat perfectly into the tyre and the car could be rolled back to leave the engine clear. Or the way I did it and just dragged the engine clear ontop of the tyre itself. Bit of a bodge. But worked perfectly and allowed me to save the money I would have had to fork out on crane on something more interesting! 8)

ahh that would explain the door bar then! Interesting that the mountings are there for them on early rados but they weren't actually fitted! :shock:

Just on the door bars note! I have a spare door that came with the rado I bought form Bcstudent, and it's fitted with a side impact bar! I don't think they were an option, but the mounting holes are there to bolt one into the door of my red valver.

No prob! They say they take 2-5 working days!

I have a load of the Venair silicone pipes for my intercooler system and they are very good quality! So I ordered myself a set of 16v coolant hoses there yesterday! 75% off is too good to resist! 8)

wow!...that is cheap!! afaik, 5 out of the 7 hoses will fit the rado, but for that price its still a good deal!

It's the charges that the delivery companies put on top of the customs duty / vat that really gets me! I had a parcelforce package that I had to pay £12 in Vat on the other week, but parcelforce charged me £18 on top of that just for the privilege of them paying the vat charge and passing it onto me!! :evil:

I've re-used the gasket between the upper an lower manifold once or twice when removing, and had no bad effects. Usually I'd pick up a new one from GSf etc, as they only cost a pound or two though! 8)

It's not too difficult. There are 5 bolts at the front side of the manifold that join the upper and lower sections. And there are two brackets around the back of the inlet manifold above the exhaust manifold/downpipe. These brackets are held on with 6 bolts. Other than them, the only other things that need removing are the inlet piping to the throttlebody, which is held in with a type of jubilee clip and can simply be unscrewed to loosen. The vac line to the brake servo which is located at the back rhs of the manifold alos has to be removed.

1) Thats the main wire to the heater on the rear window. I guess there is a prob with the element itself that it was shorting/blowing fuses so it was disconnected 2) Thats a plug for a heated seat switch.

Yeah, I really should buy one!...maybe next impulse car buy! :lol:

1st: Corrado 16v red (still own it after all these years) 2nd: Scirocco Mk2 1.6 GT (great little cars 8) ) 3rd: Corrado 16v alpine white 4th: Peugeot 405 GLDT 5th: Corrado 16v red 6th: Corrado 16v green 7th: Corrado 16v navy blue 8th: BMW E34 SE 520i 9th: Corrado 16v Black (Double Cat-C write off when I bought it. Split for parts) 10th: Corrado 16v Black (Bcstudents ex valver)

Yeah, exchange items would be pretty impossible to buy. Some sort of group buy to cut down the US -> Uk shipping rates could be a good idea though!

My god look at the prices for full axle assemblies (looking for 1.8L 16v bits). They are ridiculously cheap!....think it would be rude not to order a pair! http://www.germanautoparts.com/Volkswagen/Golf/Drivetrain/8/17

If you had a weekend to spare you could do the job yourself to save some money! And I'm sure someone on here who's breaking a car would have a decent spare gear mech!?!? Could save Christmas that way! :wink: :lol: