Dec

The specialist short term companies issue you a cert straight away that you can print out yourself. Insurance has to be valid for at least 2 months (afaik) to actually get a tax disk though!

I tried removing an old shock insert from a set of front shocks on my old rocco and it was absolutely impossible to get them to budge at all! After copious amounts of spraying with plus-gas, battering with various things and heating the threaded cap at the top, I gave up and bought a complete set of new shocks! :mad:

Remember to support the front subframe with a jack when removing the 4 bolts, as the engine will only be supported by the small bolts holding on the rad support when they are removed!!!!

:lol: :lol: brilliant!!!

That should connect up to a small thermo switch at the front left side of the rocker cover. The spade connection can snap off them, so it may need to be replaced. It basically controls the fan over-run to keep the fan going for a few mins after you turn the engine off :wink:

Prothane poly bushes are also available.

42mm mani as standard will have a raised circular numbered "stamp" about the size of a 2 pound coin on the left most runner. (It's not present in that pic of the polished 42mm manifold above)

Just noting the pic above!....It's the same two hoses on the Venair kit that don't fit......I assumed they were for the heater matrix on the Mk2 as they are the only hoses on the rado that you cant change......but I could be wrong! I trimmed about 5cm off the 180 deg long hose....and it made a perfect hose for the bottom of the expansion tank! :wink:

Well I've just fitted a Mk2 Venair kit to my 1.8L 16v too....and the two hoses to and from the heater matrix definitely don't fit! They are a much smaller diameter than the rado ones, and a bit shorter! I had a couple of these kits as I was ordering a couple for a few mates, and they all contained the same hoses....so my kit didn't have 2 wrong hoses in it. All the hoses at the front of the head fit nicely though 8)

I found some of the long nuts in wickes. They came as a pack with a section of M10 threaded bar. Plug?!?.....Nope Just stick the long nut inside a 17mm socket. Half(ish) of the nut should still be sticking out of the socket, so you just use this to open the gearbox bungs. This sort of socket, clicky

afaik heather washer nozzles and wing mirrors were standard fit items here. (usually knackered at this stage though)

It's a common enough problem when you have a speed sensitive volume control on the stereo hooked up. Cut the speed/volume control wire on the iso plug at the back of the headunit, and fit a 12v diode on the wire, to stop interference from the headunit messing with the spoiler control :wink:

1) In all fairness I don't think you would get anything close to that amount of money for stripping a valver, I'd say you are looking at more like 1-1.5k 2) I'd say that's a good idea Mr Beige has his 16v shell coming up for sale soon too afaik 8) 3) The damage you have listed above makes it sound like it is "beyond economic repair" tbh :(

Cheating way to do it is get a long M10 (I think, could be M12) hex head nut. Stick this inside a 17mm socket and use this to open the threaded gearbox drain. Worked a treat on mine, and cost approx 18p 8)

it's data from the licensing agency in the Uk. So would only include Uk registered cars.

Demand for every sort of Corrado part seems to be very low at the moment! I think there were so many people breaking them lately due to the prices of the car as a whole dropping, that it's caused an excess of supply of 2nd hand parts :?

You just need 1 x of "14958 Includes 2 upper & 2 lower mounts" :wink:

The fronts and rear mounts are quite different! The strut top mount kit will probably just include one top mount and the bearing that allows the front shock to pivot when steering. The rear top mounts come in two parts and are just pieces of doughnut shaped rubber. They have an upper and lower part of the mount. The lower mount is what the rear shock sits on, and the upper part basically clamps the bottom mount in place from the inside side of the rear wheel arch. :wink:

You really need NPT'F' (f standing for fuel) fittings! They are compatible with NPT threads, but are designed to be watertight at pressure, without having to use teflon tape. I wouldn't recommend the use of any sort of tape with fuel fittings either, as petrol corrodes the tape pretty quickly and it can contaminate your fuel supply. Proper NPTF fittings on their own will do the job nicely! Is it 1/4 NPTF -> 1/4 NPTF 90 deg union you are after? I have a few spare 1/4 NPTF -> 4AN 90 deg unions lying about somewhere if taht happens to be the right size?

You can bridge the two pins in the plug together with a short piece of wire, to disable the warning light. Not exactly highly recommended to run the car without it though.

Yeah, silver is prob the best option. I don't think black wheels really suit a navy car :|

Hello! check all the air intake pipes around the airbox for air leaks. I had something similar happen to one of my cars and it was as simple as a loose pipe causing all the probs! also try using the forum search for "starting / running problems" as there will be loads of info there! :wink:

hmmmm....I'd say that the second one is the drivers side. RHD car and all that :wink:

Late style bonnets do physically fit on early spec cars. But the bonnets don't quite line up with the wings or slam panel correctly, and just look wrong (imho)

Yup! I'd take it if I were you! The leather interior would be most of that price anyway! would be worried about the rust hole near the petrol cap...but my theory would be, for that price, even if it the engine were to explode a week after you bought it, you could easy re-coup the money you spent on it by selling a few bits from it! :lol: