Dec

To be honest I'd stick with the manual windows....they are quite rare and a bit of an 'early Corrado' novelty! :wink:

Welcome to the site! :wave: Retroftiiting the elec window mechs isn't as easy as it would initially seem. You need the entire system out of the donor car. The non-elec window cars have a different loom for the central locking too, while the elec window cars have part of the central locking and elec window looms combined. Having said that, all the mounting points etc will be there for you to fit the motors to. Needed: Driver side + passenger side mech. Looms including relays, switches and the central locking loom. The manual widow mechs are rivveted into the doors, but can be drilled out. The front seats and carpets will have to be lifted, as the loom to be fitted runs across the footwell and over the centre console just behind the handbrake. Getting the new loom fitted is time consuming, especially threading it through into the doorframe, but isn't too difficult. The motors + mech will need to be rivvited back into the doorframe, but all the mounting holes will be in the door already. :wink:

85% Ethanol blended with 15% petrol.

Once you get it sorted all this trouble will be forgotten about! The Kr injection system is very basic, so there's not really a whole lot that goes catastrophically wrong with it. (Just to note, the 2.0L 16v has all sorts of different problems than the 1.8L, so posting in this thread is a bit misleading) If I were you I'd buy a 2nd hand metering head with all the injectors attached from a known good car, and swap the lot over. Probably wouldn't cost you more than £50.

Yeah Badger5 should do them....the hoses for the Brembos need to be a good deal longer than the standard hoses anyway.

My only concern with turning the switch itself with a screwdriver would be that you would damage the plastic fitting where the lock mech fits in. But you can check if you are turning it far enough with a mulitmeter. If you take the switch out make sure you are getting continuity between the pins where the red -> red/black wires go, when you turn the switch. If the switch is brand new, I'd assume it's working ok. You are definitely getting 12v up the main red wire, and it looks like the starter button was spliced in on the ignition switch side of where the immobiliser? That would mean that the wiring there is ok, as it was working on the button. I have a feeling that you are not turning the ignition switch far enough with the screwdriver, as that's the last link in the chain. To be 100% sure on the wiring, just jumper the red -> red/black pins like I suggested earlier though. Fitting the new ignition switch may still not get the car to start if the actual lock mech itself is worn. But at least then you would be sure of what the problem is!

Is it the black/yellow and Red wires that have the button fit between them? They look like they are just spliced in, so could just be removed without problem. The starter solenoid id the only item on the switch that's activated when you turn the switch to position 3. Everything else is activated when you turn to position 1/2. Your button wiring looks like it's taking 12v switched from the black/yellow wire and feeding it down the black/red wire when the button is pushed. Ideally you want to take 12v from the red wire and feed it down the black/red wire when the key is turned. You said you turned the switch with a screwdriver. Did you physically fit the new switch in the lock mech and turn it with the key barrel removed, or plug the switch into the wiring connector and turn the switch on its own? Are you sure you turned it all the way around to Position 3, in that case?

It will simply bypass the immobiliser if you reconnect them (although the immobiliser will still probably work on the coil connection, which would be the black wire cut the same way). I reckon they cut a section out of the wire to make it more difficult to reconnect either end, and therefore prevent theft. Your wiring 'should' be fine if it's starting using the button though. Try jumping the two wires (with the immobiliser deactivated) to see if the starter spins though.

The heavy gauge red/black wire on the plug is the wire for the starter solenoid. It looks like it has been cut and an immobiliser spliced in. Check the connections on this. Then make a heavy duty jumper cable out of a small section of heavy duty wire (I used speaker cable) and jump the middle pin of the plug (red wire) to the red/black pin. the starter should start to turn. If the starter turns when jumpered but not with the new ignition switch it's probably be a dead lock mech itself. The inner mech behind the key barrel can get worn so it wont turn the ignition switch enough to connect the starter solenoid.

It's easiest with a long socket extension for one of the bolts. But shouldn't take anymore than 10 mins really.

Tried Eurocarparts? They got me a very rare random O.E BMW coolant pipe that had been discontinued everywhere else....and even had it in stock in their Wembley branch!

:lol: :lol: Now that's getting a bit ridiculous tbh, there's absolutely no evidence of that! Raikonnen was obvioulsy just racing for himself on the day, as he had a point to prove to keep his title chance alive, and to prevent himself from being relegated to no.2 at Ferrari. He made no effort to attempt to slow Hamilton to allow Masa to catch up, as the norm would have been for a no.2 driver who is in the lead to do. His 'block' on the Bus-stop chicane was perfectly legitamate and he stayed on the racing line........Why would a driver not make a legal block on a corner when someone was trying to overtake?!?!? Was he supposed to just pull to one side and allow him through?!?!? Raikonnen would have had more to lose than most by knocking Hamilton off. Hamilton made slight contact with Kimi on the bus-stop chicane; Kimi made slight contact with the rear of Hamilton at La source. There was no damage in either case, and if either driver had wanted to knock the other off at either point, they could have. It's just part of close racing at that speed.

Doubtfull! But we wouldn't have healthy debate threads like this without it! :lol: Irrespective of the fact that he was physically (just) behind Kimi approaching La Source, I still think he gained an advantage by skipping the corner over his potential track position if he had stayed on track around the Bus-Stop chicane. If there had been a wall preventing him cutting the corner and he was forced to brake on the final corner of Bus-Stop, I think he would have been the guts of a second behind Kimi approaching La source, not all over his gearbox.

Well the rules state that you shouldn't get an undue advantage from cutting the corner. By doing the bare minimum to let Kimi past he is still gaining an advantage over if he had taken the corner on the track, as I said in my last post.

That sounds about right!

Speculating on the stewards decision....... Hamilton took the outside line around the righthander at the Bus-Stop chicane then Kimi legitimately blocked his line when he tried to go through on the inside on the following lefthander onto the straight. At that point Hamilton had more speed than Kimi, and was moving up on his lhs. So he had a choice of: 1) Not slowing and staying on track. 2) Slowing down and staying on track. 3) Cutting the corner and maintaining speed. Which would have resulted in: 1) Hamilton ploughing into the side of Kimi. 2) Hamilton would have carried very little speed onto the start/finish straight, as he would have had to brake mid corner to avoid hitting Kimi whilst staying on track. 3) Well we all know what happened...... Potentially Hamilton would have been nowhere near Kimi on the straight as he would have carried fupp all speed into it after hitting the brakes mid corner. While Kimi would have taken the final corner at racing speed (as he did). It was also quite obvious that he did the absolute bare minimum in actually letting Kimi back through, and even then continued to accelerate as he did so. Therefore allowing him into a very good overtaking position coming into La Source.

Eurocarparts still seem to sell the late spec ones: also check the price in your local dealer, and maybe phone GPC too. Alternatively look in the parts for sale section for the right part. There are plenty of cars getting broken there at trhe moment. I'd be inclined to go for a new unit though, they do get scruffy looking with age.

Cheers! I assumed the option must have been in the drop-down menus somewhere, if it existed!

Yup that's what I thought too. He did let Kimi back through, but kept enough speed and a small enough gap so that he could re-take the position at the next corner. Usually the drivers pull completely to the other side of the track and make it very obvious that they are letting a car through....wasn't really the case here. Punishment is still harsh though. Another very entertaining Belgian GP though, which idiot came up with the idea of cancelling it from the callender a few years back!

Cheers! It's been a very good learning process.....and a lot of research as I went along!

Cranking pulsewidths. Not messed around with them too much.....but then the coolant temp sensor was reading 130 degrees. So prob not an ideal position to start from. :roll: Ps. is there a way to chance to Celsius.......I have little or no idea what temperature in Fahrenheit is, and I'm sick of the sight of it already!

I set the dizzy as described in the ClubGti write-up I was reading. Set the engine to tdc, set the dizzy so the centre led was lit and then rotated anti-clockwise until it went out. New timing light has been ordered as my old one has kicked the bucket though! The isv has been bypassed for the moment, and I'm just trying to start it on the throttle. I'll check the crank pulse-width now, as I cant remember it offhand. Tomorrows plan is to re-check the timing, put some decent petrol in it (as the stuff in there is ancient), and I'm going to recalibrate the coolant sensor tonight, as it seemed to be reading too high a temp value.

Yeah, it was pretty harsh.......it did look like he had got a bit of an advantage by cutting the corner, and he did the 'bare minimum' in actually allowing Kimi back through, but..... A slap on the wrists and a 10k fine like Ferrari got last weekend would have sufficed I think.

Unclip the top of the airbox and make sure the circular metal plate on the metering head is moving up and down freely. Also try unplugging the 5th injector to see if that is causing the overfueling. It's the blue plug on the passenger side of the inlet manifold.

There should be a little rubber/foam bushing that sits in round hole at the end of the pedal. They get worn with age and can let the cable fall out though. 55p to replace from GSF