bcstudent

If it was me I'd whip the clocks out and check the coil in the fuel gauge that heats the bi-metal part has continuity. If that's the case then there should be no reason that the gauge does not work and this could even be checked by driving the gauge up and down on the bench. Attention can then be turned to the sender if the gauge checks out. Obviously this check relies on your clocks working in the same way I believe the early 16v clocks to work - my temp. and fuel guages take a while to react so I can only imagine they're bi-metal. I have no doubt that the VR6 clocks are waaayyyy more complicated though, 'cos life's like that!

Have you got a picture of your gauges? I remember them from that vid. you posted of the 16v.

What happened to the 16v?

Well, it's definitely worth the £700 it's at as I write this, but what's it worth to you? It seems genuine enough but you'd really need to see it to know for sure. I thought you were after a G60! I reckon this would make a decent enough entry-level Corrado. There's nothing wrong with the 16v KR engined Corrado and Iove mine to bits but it's not a G60 anyway you look at it. Your choice my man as you're the one paying for the car and the one living with it afterwards.

I paid £104 all in for the clutch kit (including a new release bearing) from GSF a couple of months ago - a bargain as it's made the car drive a billion times better. As for handy hints all I can tell you is a) what I've already posted above and b) the closest Haynes manual you're gonna get is a Mk.2 Golf one, which is going to be absolutely no help. To repeat what's already been writen, if you can get the car high enough then leaving the engine in place is ok. However I would seriously consider taking the engine and gearbox out together if you can. I did the clutch with the car on axle stands and it really made life fairly difficult to be honest. The biggest tip is this: if you leave the engine in place you'll need to remove the offside (driver's side) driveshaft flange from the gearbox to give you the movement you need to get the gearbox off the engine output shaft. On my Mk.2 Golf this was secured by a circlip on the output shaft from the diff in the middle of the flange (God I love that word), but on the Corrado the driveshaft flange was held in place by a tapered spline and had to by hammered out of the gearbox. I have no idea if all Corrado 16v's are like that or not so beware. If you're not confident about doing the job I can probably come up with a basic step-by-step guide from what I remember of my clutch change a couple of weeks ago. Good luck. P.S. Removing the bumper and front panel makes access a lot better. * EDIT* The only "special" tool you'll need is a clutch centring kit. If you can't borrow one of these then a piece of wooden dowel (or similar) and some electrician's tape makes a suitable substitute.

Now they really do suck arse!

If the E46 M3s are anything like the earlier model M3s then I reckon the bike would be safer in the wet.

What you actually need is two wheels! Nothing like kicking a £40k car's arse with a thee grand 600. Some people just don't understand what bikes are capable of. Those people in expensive motors are always good for a laugh.

For £30 you can get a pair of German style plates with holders. I know which I'd choose.

How old is the system? Would you still recommend a Milltek?

Gutted!

Mine 1.8 16v often starts on two or three cylinders when warm. It rarely doesn't start at all but it's a bit of a pain waiting for it to clear it's throat. It's always fine from cold like yours. Does your car attempt to fire or just turn over in a lifeless fashion when warm, and does it fail to start every time it's warm or only sometimes?

That's a pretty fair price tbh. Does it include everything apart from the manifold?

Joby, how much was the exhaust without fitting?

When my Sebrings turned up they were basically in a dustbin bag each and all taped up.

I quite like them too. Were they ever offered as an official UK model or are they import only?

I agree with DubWhiZZ that for cheap, reasonable quality sound you can't go wrong with a decent set of 6x9s - and there are some decent sets out there. Just because they're perceived as "chav" may not be enough of a reason for those with limited cash/ability/enthusiasm to take their car install to the next level. At the same time I agree with pablo_vr6 that 6x9s offer far from a sound-off quality performance. I reckon you two are arguing different points here. Sure, 6x9s are not the be all and end all of car stereo equipment but they certainly have a place in the market.

Heh....riiiiiight. That's going to be contender for my favourite Corrado ever I expect.

I look forward to seeing this beauty when it's finished! What other mods are in the pipeline?

BARGAIN!!!! and a stunning car you have there.

After you're managed to find first gear does the clutch feel right? If so my money would be on the linkage. It's really not very hard to set up if that's the case. Incidentally, unless you have a hydraulic lift handy then the clutch is a proper pain in the backside. I put a clutch in my 1.8 16v last week and it was a bit of a nightmare. If you change the clutch with the engine in place then you'll likely have to remove the driver's side driveshaft flange from the gearbox to allow you the movement to get the gearbox and engine apart. Next time I do a clutch change I'm taking the engine and 'box out together because I swear it'll be easier.

Awwwww shucks :oops:

Oi! :mad: Quality

I never bothered to look at the car it was going on......ah well, this may help other pre-'92 owners somewhere along the line.

WHAT???? and lose the "Magnificent pair???"