Gti_Jamo

I'd maybe interested at the right price.

Great stuff, good buy for 800 notes. look after it and it'll be worth lots more a few year down the line. I paid around 1100 fr mine in january but have had to shell out 700 odd in parts to keep it up and running since and have yet to get to the paintwork or he charger lol, both of which need done. Don't care though, so nice to run about in when it's working. Also if you can locate any markings / numbers on the charger regarding its last rebuild you easily find out when it was last done. Given it's was fairly recent.

Excellent. Great stuff.

Ecu one deffo goes to the top one that points slightly to drivers side, other one goes into the pipework that leads to carbon cannister assembly. If your ecus plugged into that one it'll only be recieving vacuum readings so would give you your overfuelling issues. Edit - I'm pretty sure the top one points slightly to passenger side and lower one to drivers side. I'll check mine tomorrow though.

Ecu feed should be on the nipple that's nearest the top of the throttle body.

I was needing one too and just contacted a few of the breaking corrados ads on ebay and getting one posted for 25 quid. There getting hard to find these days.

Depends on your own preferences. If you like to graft and make things look nice then good results can be achieved given the hours are put in. Powdercoating is quick and easy but it'll always be someone elses work. I'll be doing the underside of mine soon by hand and it'll look better than powdercoat and similarly stand up to the elements but will take me a fair amount of time.

New brakes will often squeak until bedded in a bit.

Your doing the correct procedure when timing? Bts disconnected etc, reved up past 3000rpm 3 times. Is there any difference with bts disconnected? Also look at both the idle switch and WOT switch ( wide open throttle) on the throttle body are functioning correctly as problems with either will cause fueling problems. The WOT switch inparticular if stuck on will over fuel like crazy. There should be a click as you move the throttle full open. You can also check their resistances. You'll get there mate.

Got the frame finally finished. All solid now. Just rattle canned it along with a coat of laquer just to seal it. Also used an etching primer along with a base primer to ensure it stays rust free. Rest of car will be properly painted soon. Laquer peel is beyond a joke. Windscreen getting fitted on wednesday through my insurance which saves me a good few quid so all working out well so far.

Hard to put a price on everything at once, you relatively local to me?

Sounds like some sort of vapour lock similar to G60's if the pump overrun stops working. Heat evaporates the fuel in the rail, the longer it's left the harder it is to start. Might be worth looking into.

Though i'd make a list of parts needed to get my G60 back to its former glory. Must all be reasonably priced and in good condition. ~ Drivers side electric window regulator. ~ Bonnet cable. ~ Handbrake ~ Coilovers or fixed lowering kit. ~ G60 Radiator. ~ G60 Subframe and Wishbones for refurbishment. ~ G60 Hubs for refurbishment. ~ Radiator support panel (power steering). ~ BBS RZ Wheels with no rim damage for refurbishment. Doesn't need to be complete set or have centre caps. Located in PH5, Scotland so if your not local then include shipping quote. List will be updated as needs be. Cheers.

I have auto windscreens coming next wednesday to fit me a new screen. Just had to sort out a shed load of rot in the frame. Will let you know how they get on. Your dudes sound a bit clueless though.

I've had my G60 since January and despite some initial major mechanical failure (melted piston due to split injector wiring loom) it's been spot on since i fixed it and done 5000 pretty much trouble free miles since. Performance wise its a lot of fun and doesn't need to be ragged to be enjoyed. Good low down torque and not too bad on fuel either considering. Try and get one with as much verifiable history as possible. Also look out for rust in the sills and along the top of the windscreen frame but generally the're not too bad for corrosion. D90's will require adapters to fit ( 4 x 100 to 5 x 130 stud pattern I believe.

Sounds exactly like mine when it was running rich, mine went through 20 quid of fuel just sitting on my drive trying to sort it out. Does swapping the blue and black temp sensors round make any difference. Strange one like. What bout ignition timing? Has anthing in regards to that been disturbed? Distributor, timing belt. I'm reletively new to g60's but had to rectify almost every running issue on mine since i've had it.

Oil temps are always higher on G60's so wouldn't worry bout that, blue temp sends signal to ecu, black temp goes to gauge. Try unplugging lambda to see if it improves. My lambda has been knackered for a while and been running with it disconnected with no issues. Runs a bit rich on idle but not enought to give off black smoke, soon as i reconnect lambda it idles erratic and pops and splutters. My mfa reads around 37mpg but in reality it's around 30mpg, the're rarely accurate. Hope you get it sorted out.

Any improvments disconnecting the blue temp sensor? Checked its resistances? Is the new lambda a genuine one? Failing that also check wiring to lambda.

Needs to be off mate. Some cars can be a bitch to purge air out of but just stick with the 2 man method and you'll get there. BUT, if your hearing air escaping under braking, which it can do as it's much thinner than the fluid and gets past the joins in the pipes, it can also draw air into the system upon lifting off the pedal. So check your pipes are nice and tight.

Not too much left to do, just delicately weld up and smooth off the gaps. I'd urge everyone to check theirs for rust around these areas. Appears to be quite common.

Cut out everything that was rotten and started to fabricate some strips of metal. Luckily the rot hasn't penetrated the lower skin of the frame so just a matter of replacing that then weld in a vertical strip and all should be good. Punched holes so i can puddle weld then grind smooth, also left small gaps between the strips so i can stitch weld then again smooth them off. Part of the upper skin on the passenger side wasn't to clever either so replacing with another strip.

You getting any excessive blow back with the oil cap removed when revving? You sure irs running on all cylinders? Hard to tell from vid.

Mine was already cracked up in both corners and badly delaminating. Yeah seen that repair A panel on here somewhere the other day while researching as it'll be near impossible to get that area right just fabricating a section. There is a raddo being broke not too far from me so i'm going to check that out and maybe cut a piece out of it if it's any use.

With MOT time approaching my plans were to just put the Corrado off the road until till next year but been enjoying running it so much I thought i might aswell just keep using it. How she looks just now. Anyway, first of the 'big' jobs. Ruined windscreen. Got myself a bonded screen removal tool off ebay which turned out to be a pile of brown sugar and broke litterally after a couple of pulls so resorted to having to go round the inside with a stanley knife as much as I could around the top and both sides then kicking the hooor out. Worth pointing out i've not covered anything. Well I have no carpets in just now and the paintwork is past its best and will be getting redone. But remember, goggles and heavy duty gloves. Then went round the frame with a soft chisel and a rubber mallet. Knew i had some rust issues and this is what I have to deal with. One sides totally rotten while the others not too bad. The other job taking second priority is my crushed sill. What was originally a hole about an inch or two in diameter turned into this. Hence why the wings off. Obviously needs to be a good job as it's on display so my metal fabrication skills will be tested on both here and the screen frame. Not much else needing done for MOT, drivers window is held up with a block of 2 x 4, no bonnet cable fitted either. Will update as it progresses.

Take the drivers wheel off and it's accessible. Big breaker bar for removing and a good torque wrench for tightening. Will also need to lock the flywheel to stop engine rotating.