flusted

update, seems i may of been a big plonker. When i changed the elads about 6months ago, i changed them for known good 1s (so i thought), but ive just fitted new 1s and the stutter has gone away 8) note to self, always buy new ignition parts :lol:

looking good, although it looks like youve shaped it as if the air is hitting it straight on, which it doesnt as the samller butterfly is off set. try shaping the divider slightly to the left as you look at it if that makes sense

I have a spare throttlebody, should i give it a try?

IVE TRIED WEAKENING THE SPRING ON THE TOP OF AFM oops capslock, and its better but not right

i believe its a 2e, new leads and i changed the dizzy with no joy.

My mrs mk3 8v gti has had a fault of "bucking" whilst under load and its driving her mad (and me). Ive changed coil,dizzy,plugs,leads,rotor,lambda,afm, then went to get co checked and its .5? It has a cat bypass and i believe its way too lean? how do i richin it up? theres no adjuster on airflow meter Help as she wants to drive it to london next sat from the isle of wight and im not goin with her

it can only help 8)

clean the throttle switches?

who cares about etka, if g-werks etc say 1m long and it works for everyone, then thats good enough for me 8)

black is feed, blue is return You prob took 2 pipes off the wur, just remove the wur al together you sure it wasnt the servo pipe rather than a water pipe?

REALLY EASY TO TELL DIFFERENCE.....kr has bits missing on the bottom of lobes, where as a 9a has smooth lobes. Turn the cam so the lobes are pressing down on valves and look and the underside of the lobe.

heres a 16v 1 i did a while ago

can you not change the flanges for normal 02o 1s then?

what driveshafts do you use with the 20v box though, as they are 110mm flanges?

i was lucky doing the rear, i cut the top off the inlet mnanifold and flowed that, then bolted the tb to it and marked out the tb line in the inlet manifold if that makes sense? Basically port matched the tb to the inlet. It would be so much easier if your were using flap wheels, that bit you wana cut out the half moon on the divider, that shape just appeared on mine whilst i was using the flap wheel I even read somewhere that some people using a different injector in number 4 cylinder as airflow to it is so restricted, they dont want that cylinder running too rich :shock: Think that air as soon as its gone through your tb, has to take a sharp right angle to go down number 4 port.

the kr injection will make more power than the abf injection anyways

yep ditch that bit, heres mine, sorry for poor quality backside Ive decided to refit the wedge so will se how it drives tommorrow

if it helps the part nos for the gaskets are 037 133 073 A 037 133 074

you will not get it to fit unless you design some sort of replacement airbox that has the fitting for an induction pipe

yeah thats what i was on about 8) as said before ive polished through 2 in that place so be carefull

flap wheels are your friends 8) my throttlebody is off so will add pics later. Ive just put the wedge back in to see what difference it makes. Also i adjusted the boost return linkage so it shuts earlier but unsure if this is a good idea?

i tryed to angle the divider towards the entry if that makes sense,as the air wont hit the small butterfly straight on because its off set to the big butterfly I gota take mine off today so il take some more/better pics

yeah thats looking good, still try and round off that edge on the second pic.

tensioner can stretch with standard belt i think. Im running a solid tensioner...cost about £20

they are only 18mm taller and should clear fine if you use the rado inlet manifold etc