Tempest

After having fitted Koni coilies on my C (G60) a few weeks ago, I had the chance of finding out how harsh they can be by passengering in C.Will's mental VR6 turboed ex-G60 Rado on the way to Dubfreeze last week, when we crashed through the terrible roads in Stafford, full of potholes. Guess a tweak back on the old adjuster at the top would have made that a bit less crashy. I haven't been able to test my setup yet, as my C is on Sorn till April. I am quite happy with the FK Königsports on my Mk2 Storm Rocco, where it really started to shine during the 3 laps at Castle Combe during the CCGB National Day last year. The Sachs Racing coilies on my Mk1 (sadly no longer available, specially tuned for the Ring, too, I found out recently) are definitely too harsh for daily use, but immense fun :-) Tempest

VR6 or G60? I have now driven both, yes, even the valvers. At the time when I was looking for a Rado, I completely ignored the valver, and concentrated on finding a G60 or VR6. I also was looking mainly at the German market, where valvers are far and between, and G60s are in the majority. A 3-day test drive of a mate's G60 then convinced me, I didn't care about VRs any more, I wanted one, even though I was still looking at some, but at the time they also commanded much higher prices than G60s. I then literally stumbled across my current US-spec G60, with lots of very uncommon toys on-board (airco, automatic seatbelts, side markers, interior colour pattern, cruise control), test drove it, and apart from some very annoying and irritating (certainly for a die-hard Rocco-owner and driver like me) niggly problems that I gradually got to solve during the last 3 years, I'm happy with it, even at standard power output (not for too long any more). Yes, the VR6, if you do find a good one, will quite possibly offer a more relaxed driving style. Then again, people who've driven my G60 will be able to testify that a G60 can also be quite refined. You don't need to mod the crap out of a G60 to have fun with one either. My G60 fits the bill quite nicely of my long distance cruiser (especially thanks to all the US-spec toys), as my Roccos both are downright fun toys with all sorts of mods. Tempest

Someone on the German Radoforum is actually looking into this issue, as he, too has a US-G60 like me :-) Also hoping he might be able to replicate the ELRA :-) Tempest

Not a Dubber myself, but a BIG Karmann fan, well at least as far as all their type 53s are concerned :-) I have all 3 incidentally :-) Tempest

Excellent work. Over in Germany, they've also got the model modding bug, see here: http://www.vwcorrado-forum.de/wbb2/thread.php?threadid=26689 This site might be handy, loads of parts for 1/18 svcale models: http://norotuning.de/shop/show_product.php?products_id=698 Tempest

And that's exactly why I so much like the Mk1 Rocco. No new-fangled smooth flattened bubble-cars for me. Corrado is as far as it goes :-) Tempest

It can be done, it's a bit uncomfortable to access, but I've done it. Easier, of course when the whole rad is out :-) Tempest

Could have a wander over to my garage tomorrow and take a few piccies, now that the new Koni coilies on my alpine-white C have been fitted. Supercharged, Jim and 2cc have already seen the end result during last weekend :-) Tempest

dc and 2 Volt range will do. Tempest

Oh man, sorry to hear. I suppose I was lucky when I undid my top nuts with just a Lambda-probe socket and a 7 mm hexagonal-bit. Took a bit of force, but breaker bar times 2 did the trick. The Clarke hollow socket and ratchet kit does miracles, or would have done miracles in my case, had I had one at the time. I now have a set, but that's the last set ever in the UK, as that kit has been discontinued. Tempest

The limit stops normally don't go that quickly. I simply changed mine, as I was still using the old ones with plastic rings rather than the newer ones which use rubber rings. Top mount goes onto the strut then the whole thing is attached to the bearing housing, and follow my info further up. The top mount will then sit inside of the whellearch, right at the top. All you attach from inside of the engine bay is the limit stop. Tempest

Yup, which is why I never even went down that route. The engine's forces will simply go elsewhere, where they're not designed to go, hence best use oem or possible the VT mounts. Tempest

There's still a poll running on what to do on one day during the trip to the Club Roadstar event in the Netherlands (see relevant thread in the Events section) in May this year. The Ring is one option :-) So far, quite a few form the SciroccoRegister are joining :-) Tempest

Have a look here, done by the guy, who owns one of the Corrados on which one of the recent Revell 1/18 scale model Cs is based: http://video.google.de/videoplay?docid=537133479341906802&q=corrado Tempest

And there was me thinking again that on a Corradoforum, Mk1 meant Mk1 Scirocco, the natural ancestor to the C :lol:. Nevertheless, nice example of a Mk1 Golf you got there, and by your description, it was well worth getting, too, well done :-) After all, it was designed by the same chap who did my all-time favourite, the Mk1 Rocco. Tempest

Try clicking on the FREE-link, then wait for the displayed time, and you'll get a list of free sites to download the videoclip from. Join in on the trip to Hohenroda in August and you'll get to see the Hornstein live :-) Tempest

Right, since I have just finished fitting the Koni coilies on my own C (and don't try what I did what i posted in another thread here, when I was trying to save myself some work :lol:): Assuming you don't want to do additional work, such as drop beam to hange rear beam bushes (like I did): Rear: Jack up car and support on stands. Remove road wheels. Undo nut and bolt on brake compensator bracket holding spring. Undo lower bolts on existing struts. Undo bolts on rear beam swivel attachment (not the 3 big ones going into the chassis, the single horizontal one per side). Remove the side speaker shelves in boot (after you've removed parcel shelf, of course). Undo nut at top of strut. Remove bolts at strut bottom, and support brake disk. Remove top nut and remove strut. Fit new bushes to new strut (a lower and upper, use Bentley piccies to see which way around they go). Use new nuts where needed. Inspect top of wheel arches and clean out, remove any traces of rust and treat. Insert strut, insert lower bolt (copper grease and new bolt, preferably) to attach to rear beam. Do for both sides. Re-attach road wheels, and slowly lower the car, whilst keeping an eye on the strut tops so they nicely start to poke through the holes in your boot. Now working inside of boot insert top rubber bush, then the plate, then the nut (don't tighten anything yet!!!), attach the little disk (look at old strut for guidance), then the 2nd nut. Front: Jack up car, place on axle stands, remove road wheels. Inside engine bay, undo the top nut, counterhold the shock piston with a 7 mm Allen key (might need a Lambdaprobe socket or something similar to allow you to rotate the nut whilst holding the piston, else the piston will rotate with the nut). Do for both sides. Get breaker bar and undo both bolts and nuts on both sides on strut, where strut is held to bearing housing. Support bearing housing/wishbone assembly before you remove both bolts on each side. Remove nut at top of strut (in engine bay), remove limit stops, and remove strut. Inspect, clean, treat an rust in wheelarch. Attach new top mount to front coilies. Coilies will usually use normal nuts instead of those horrid special VW-only nuts (so no special tools needed :-) ) to attach the top mount assembly (VR6 and other late-spec Cs use a 2-component top mount, a small circular ring, and the huge rubber thing - see bentley pics for correct order in which they go onto your strut). Fit new coilies, use new bolts and nuts, coppergrease, to bearing housing. Attach roadwheels. Poking the strut top through hole at top of wheelarch slowly lower car. Secure limit stops to strut top with nut. Push down car at all 4 corners a few times. Only now start torqueing up all still loose bolts and nuts at front and rear. Take off road wheels at front for this. At rear leave wheels on, so you can tighten up all bolts at bottom of car with everything settled in (important for those rear beam bushes, otherwise you'll be replacing those soon, if they're under constant stress due to lowering and hence being out of their ordinary rest position). Tighten up bolts and nut on compensator bracket such that spring is not quite under tension yet. Think that's about it. Tempest

The way I normally refill the system is through the reservoir, but then as soon as I start the engine, I actually with the reservoir cap still off start squeezing the top hose leading to the rad, to get rid of any air bubbles, which then indeed start to bubble up and escape through the reservoir. In doing so don't let the coolant temperature reach 100°C, as that's when the stuff starts to boil over, hence the need for the pressure cap on your reservoir to increase the boiling point above 100°C. Tempest

That's my mate Dirk's Hornstein, one of only 36 conversions :shock: Nice to drive, too :-) Tempest

Nice one, I know the feeling, as I had the same experience about 3 weeks ago, when I received a big box at work with brandnew shiny chromed Koni coilies in there. They're fitted now after some aditional work (rear beam bushes replaced), along with new top mounts all round. Can't wait till it's April, when I'm finally starting to tax my Karmann coupes again. Tempest

A nice video of quite a few of my German mates having some fun on the Nürburgring last April :-) http://rapidshare.com/files/15553668/Die_Gruene_Hoelle.divx.html Brings back the memories of our little trip back in August :-) Tempest

Rainsports are nice tyres, though, my Momo Arrow alloys had them on the front wheels. I'm still running those :-) All depends on how many miles a year you do. I'm far more prone to this happening now that I'm up and down the country in our van. Already had 2 punctures in the last 2 years, both in the van whilst driving at speed on the M25 :shock: If it's any concolation regarding the money spent: My mate Dirk's just spent 884 Euros in less than 2 days on his Audi, again things he didn't want to have spent the money on, that all went wrong/needed doing: Reprogramming of his LPG system, front caliper, disk and pad changed (latter 2 both sides), and some more that all of a sudden cropped up (binding disk). Audis aren't cheap ;-) Tempest

Even the older model S4 with the 230 bhp V5 Turbo engine that my colleague has is a beast, as I found out again recently, when I was handed the keys :-) Tempest

Might have to send my parents to the local toyshop in Germany :-) Tempest