KipVR 1 Posted June 12, 2009 I think the sound is all down to the exhaust TBH, Pete's R32 Corrado didn't sound massivly different to the VR! MkV's R32's though sound awesome but TT's sound dull......Didn't think of using a 2.8 Autobox, could be a winner. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
fla 9 Posted June 12, 2009 OK so an auto 2.8 *does* exist. Thats probably the way i'm heading then... Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Toad 0 Posted June 12, 2009 Hmmmmmm. Seems that 4mo Autos did exist. Can't find any 2wd golf 2.8 Autos though. So started thinking, what about Boras, Jettas or Passats? Or... 2.3 V5 has the same basic block layout as the VR6, maybe you could get an autobox from one of them? I wouldn't trust my search results though.... They might be out there... Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
big ben 10 Posted June 24, 2009 well i have read this thread through, and im confused to hell... I was looking to rebuild my VR, now im thinking 24V (my mind changes like the police) :D if i want to put a "MKV" R32 engine in my rado, what bits do you buy from the donor car, what bits will need modifying?? sorry if its already been said but im totally lost between 24V engines.... or would it be easier getting a MKIV??? also is there any garages out there who know exactly what they are doing when it comes to these installs, dont think i will be trying this, havent got the balls :camp: Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
swiftkid 1 Posted June 24, 2009 MK5 r32s are harder to do the wiring because they are more complicated, the mk4's and Audi's are alot easier. Places like south west in car technology (vagdoc), stealth, psi and storm developments can all help you out with the conversion but don't expect it to be cheap. The wiring is the hardest part, everything else is fairly straight forward. To be honest if your seriously thinking about 24v you need a good thorough read through the full thread as all your questions have been answered numerous times. I have got an Audi 3.2 engine for sale if your serious about it, this engine doesn't need an FPR and also comes with 15-20bhp more as standard than the mk4 r32. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
pete_griff 0 Posted June 24, 2009 South West In-Car Tech won't be that expensive if you just get him to do the wiring for you. if you want him to do the lot (i.e. take him the car then you drive it away), then that will involve a re-map and slight altering of the ecu coding (to code out things like the aux air pump etc) - that will obviously be a bit more expensive again, but it won't be that much - circa £600ish all in i would guess including the remap, wiring etc. i only don't know th exact amount as i had more stuff done at the same time as my alarm packed up during the conversion etc etc Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
herisites 0 Posted June 24, 2009 Here's the quote I got from them: Wiring conversion (if the car is originally a VR) - £350 +VAT ECU immobiliser removal - £120 +VAT CAN BUS RPM converter - £60 Remap included with the above work - £280. Works out at about £880, so quite a chunk really but I suppose in this day and age with the amount of work that goes in to it plus a remap it's not a massive amount. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
big ben 10 Posted June 24, 2009 money money money... so how much would i be looking for a mk5 engine and all the bits, i was thinking around £1500?? no one offer me anything haha!! havent got any money for a couple months anyway, just thinking ahead... Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Critical_Mass 10 Posted June 24, 2009 money money money... so how much would i be looking for a mk5 engine and all the bits, i was thinking around £1500?? no one offer me anything haha!! havent got any money for a couple months anyway, just thinking ahead... Which engine, R32? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
big ben 10 Posted June 24, 2009 money money money... so how much would i be looking for a mk5 engine and all the bits, i was thinking around £1500?? no one offer me anything haha!! havent got any money for a couple months anyway, just thinking ahead... Which engine, R32?[/quote:105v0enp] yeah the R32 engine :D Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
herisites 0 Posted June 24, 2009 I think generally low mileage Mk5 R32's can reach up to £2k, but you should be able to get one for £1500, I did! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
big ben 10 Posted June 24, 2009 I think generally low mileage Mk5 R32's can reach up to £2k, but you should be able to get one for £1500, I did! ah ok, hopefully when the time comes then i will be able to get one for that :D anyone care to fill me in on how much better these engines are than the 12V, can they sound better?? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
herisites 0 Posted June 24, 2009 I think generally low mileage Mk5 R32's can reach up to £2k, but you should be able to get one for £1500, I did! ah ok, hopefully when the time comes then i will be able to get one for that :D anyone care to fill me in on how much better these engines are than the 12V, can they sound better?? Depends on personal tastes really, do a search on youtube, there are a few videos of Corrado's with R32 lumps in and they sound fooking awesome imo! The R32 has a very satisfying burble 8) Basically the 12v was VW practising for the R32 imo :lol: The 12v is a ~20 year old design, the R32 is just the updated version. The R32 has the same block but the difference is in the head, which has 24v instead of 12 and it flows massively more, and the management. I haven't been in one myself yet but they are supposed to have massively more low down and mid-range torque over the 12v, no more filling it's lungs up and finally getting somewhere! Plus the Mk5 with downpipes, decat and a good air filter remapped will give 280bhp 8) Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
big ben 10 Posted June 24, 2009 sounds good to me :D would love the extra power and a better sound, would be awesome!! i bet you cant wait to start your up and go for a spin then!!!!!!!!! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
herisites 0 Posted June 24, 2009 sounds good to me :D would love the extra power and a better sound, would be awesome!! i bet you cant wait to start your up and go for a spin then!!!!!!!!! Counting the days mate! :clap: Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Village Idiots 0 Posted June 26, 2009 Swiftkid.....will you post up more details on the engine you have to sell. I am looking for an R32 and have cash waiting. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Village Idiots 0 Posted June 26, 2009 Ignore the above....have seen your post in the sale section!!! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
coullstar 0 Posted July 3, 2009 Right guys Im having real issues getting my car through MOT due to emissions. Ive had a CAT fitted but it made next to no difference. The car is running about 3% CO and 300ppm HC, way higher than it should. The car is running a standard VR CAT with both rear lambda probes taken out. I had a log done that brings up the following codes, 17834 EVAP Purg valve - open circuit 17841 2ndar air pump relay - open circuit 17530 Bank2 rear lambda - open circuit 17526 Bank 1 rear lambda - open circuit How have people worked round not running the rear lamdba's? Spoke to PSI who said the map they put in the car should do this (Custom Code) however a knowledgable friend suggest suggests that the rear lambda codes are putting the car into limp mode and hence the over fuelling. The wires are not there for the rear lambdas so I cannot get them attached. The car is the same as when I picked it up in that there is no performance difference and the fuel consump is the same therefore Im wondering if it been like this all along. Just to clear this up it turns out that to get round this (as I had been lead to believe) you have to wire in resistors to fool the lambda circuits into thinking the lambdas are still there. Apparently this seems the only way to get round the rear lambda deletes and is common with the Cusotm Code remaps. Not sure if this is specific to the Motronic Vr7 OE ECU that I have. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
quicky1980 0 Posted July 3, 2009 I thought that vagdoctor could do it in the ecm. not heard any issues off other people who have had work done by him :shrug: Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
coullstar 0 Posted July 4, 2009 Depends on what he does with the rear lambda's and whether the other people have been ruinning them as well. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Andy947 0 Posted July 6, 2009 My understanding of the coding was that it removed the requirement for the map to read the secondary lambda inputs, but the ecu may still actually require to see that they are there (ie either wire them in or put resistors in to simulate the electrical load) Same goes for the air pump etc. Yours is an early setup with the seperate coil pack? Dave reckons as mine has the later coil pack on Plug setup that i can actually code out the Air pump etc, but even if i cant i'll just either wire in the Relays or resistors as required. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
herisites 0 Posted July 6, 2009 I got a MK5 R32 in mine, just waiting on the wiring to arrive from Stealth. I'm not running a cat and so have had the 2 post-cat lambdas deleted. Vince said that I may need to do something else though as he only removes the fault codes basically so the ECU might still be looking for them and go in to limp mode if they are not there. Can anyone shed some more light on this resistor trick as I dare say I will need to do this? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Kevin Bacon 5 Posted July 6, 2009 You just measure the resistance of the standard lambda probe across signal ground (not chassis ground) and signal output and hardwire in a resistor of that value. The ECU will then see a 'load' on the circuit and not fault it. I'm still not convinced that is necessary, but I'll do some more research into it. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
coullstar 0 Posted July 7, 2009 Just spoke to PSI and its the EVAP and air pump that needs the resistor in not the lambdas. Also it only seems to be on specific ECU's as the other cars they have done have been fine, its just mine and Tedmans as they are identical ECU's. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Kevin Bacon 5 Posted July 7, 2009 Yep, Stealth also confirm the rear lambdas can be disabled completely with software changes. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
