Definitive 24v into a (VR) Corrado thread

[swiftkid 1]

Hey all, just double checking everything on the engine at the moment and it seems like the exhaust camshaft vvt has plenty of movement but the exhaust has barely anything, as in it won't even move a tooth distance. Is this normal? Also has anyone got a proper timing guide? I'm using dribs and drabs from everywhere at the moment.

[Kevin Bacon 5]

You mean the Inlet has plenty of adjustment and the Exhaust has little? Inlet can advance up to 52 degrees and exhaust can advance up to 22 degrees, so yeah, that's normal. The exhaust VVT unit doesn't move hardly at all compared to the inlet when you move it by hand.

 

I've put pictures of a correctly timed R32 on here and the R32OC and there are guides all over the place as well, such as this official VW one - http://www.cfiamerica.com/24V.html

[Dox 23]

 

Shouldn't be any fragments up there as the filter traps any fragments that originate from the block.

 

QUOTE]

 

http://www.cfiamerica.com/24V.html

 

Click on the PDF - VW PDF BJS overview and go to the bottom of the page

 

It states:-

 

Checking control housing strainer for

soiling

– Unclip strainer -2- from back of control

housing -1- and remove any soiling.

 

This filter / strainer on a BDE head I stripped was full of white metal from the big ends - the previous owner ran it with low / no oil in. On poorly maintained engines its known to become so blocked the oil pressure rips the gauze from the centre, partially blocked it will also cause the cams to move slowly.

 

I would advise anyone doing chains to inspect the filter at the same time.

 

Your knowledge on these engines and cars is immense, I read your every post :)

[swiftkid 1]

Thats exactly what I was looking for and yes I meant inlet, I had oil all over my hands at the time and was pretty cheesed off some my brain wasn't engaging properly, cheers Kev.

 

Quick one for those doing the wiring, I have a wire from the ECU T121/28 (blue/white) I believe is for the alternator. Its not in my wiring diagram weirdly, what has everyone done with it?

[Kevin Bacon 5]

Dox, good info mate! I've not heard of that problem before. I meant to say the main "Oil filter" should trap any bearing dust before it gets up to the head, so that's odd, but definitely worth a check as you say. I've heard of them being blocked with sludge from very infrequent oil changes (mainly in maintenance shy America), but not white metal dust! eeek!

 

Oh and cheers! There's a lot of things we learn from these motors from stripping them down! Like the time I bashed the intake valves into the exhaust valves when I was turning the cams by hand. The things you learn through mistakes :lol:

 

Swiftkid, no worries. Those VVT units need to be turned back and forth a few times to get the oil out. Once the squelching stops and the oil's come out, you should then feel the full range of movement. Just remember to fully retard them before fitting the chain!

[swiftkid 1]

What's everyone done about the outlet in the block for the auxiliary water pump, I presume it has to be moved to where the old vr6 one sat but then there is an outlet in the block. New core plug?

[Sean_Jaymo 0]

Just cap it off.

[Corrado Pete 10]

Hi All,

Thought I would jump in here with my story. My son David bought what is an ex PSI 24 valve 2.8 converted Storm.

http://www.psituning.com/page.php?xPage=26corradostorm.html

The main problem is that as it stands it will not come anywhere near passing an MoT on emissions.

I am getting fault codes from the two rear lambda sensors (which do not exist) Evap purge valve open circuit, and secondary air pump relay open circuit.

Having spoken to Graeme Coull and then his mate Dave,who have been very helpful, we think the first step is to examine and sort out the conversion wiring and possibly add in lambda wiring and SAP relay.

Firstly I would like any advice on where to source diagrams for 4motion ECU and Corrado engine loom, and what lambda configuration to go for. Also if anyone knows any history on the car I would love to hear from you.

[Fanjita 1]

Yeah I did the same. Bought a cap from the stealers iirc. I then tapped a thread inside the old cap connector and fitted a long bolt. You can then just smack the bolt a few times and the old cap will come out. Try to get the new one in square.

[Kevin Bacon 5]

Hi All,

Thought I would jump in here with my story. My son David bought what is an ex PSI 24 valve 2.8 converted Storm.

http://www.psituning.com/page.php?xPage=26corradostorm.html

The main problem is that as it stands it will not come anywhere near passing an MoT on emissions.

I am getting fault codes from the two rear lambda sensors (which do not exist) Evap purge valve open circuit, and secondary air pump relay open circuit.

Having spoken to Graeme Coull and then his mate Dave,who have been very helpful, we think the first step is to examine and sort out the conversion wiring and possibly add in lambda wiring and SAP relay.

Firstly I would like any advice on where to source diagrams for 4motion ECU and Corrado engine loom, and what lambda configuration to go for. Also if anyone knows any history on the car I would love to hear from you.

 

I assume the plug for the EVAP valve has been cut off then? It should be near the offside strut. Ditto the SAI relay (that's nearer the nearside strut)?

 

If the wires have been snipped off and nowhere to be seen, you'll need to trace them back to the ECU. All I have to hand is a BDE (2.8 with VVT) diagram to hand, but it should get you in the right direction.

 

Evap valve N80:-

 

Blue/Yellow wire > switched live.

Purple/red wire > Pin 64 in the T121 ECU plug.

 

Secondary Air Injection Pump relay J299 (Needs to be connected even if not using SAI):-

 

Green/Brown wire > Pin 46 in T121 ECU plug > Pin 86 on relay (signal)

Ground pin 85 of the relay.

 

Secondary Air Injection Solenoid N112 (This should be clipped to the intake manifold and should be connected even if not using SAI):-

 

Brown/Yellow wire > Pin 44 in the T121 ECU Plug.

Blue/Yellow wire> Same switched live as the N80 (I think!).

 

Rear Lambda 1 (Post cat) G130:-

 

Pins 68, 69 & 63 in T121 ECU Plug. Grey/white, Grey/red & Grey/brown respectively.

These all plug into a 4 pin connector near the cat.

 

Rear Lambda 2 (Post cat) G131:-

 

Pins 6, 10 & 11 in T121 ECU plug. Blue, red & Black/brown respectively.

These all plug into a 4 pin connector near the cat.

 

Dave Manson (if that's who Dave is) should understand all that ;)

 

If you struggle, I would simply drop the car off to Vince at Stealth Racing for a week, otherwise you could end up chasing your tail for months and get nowhere.

 

Good luck!

[quicky1980 0]

cant remember if its been discussed/resolved before but I get pretty bad kangarooing at 2000rpm and slight at around 1000rpm. Its getting quite annoying as at 2000rpm its pretty much 60mph where my journey seem to be most of the time so have to either choose a different gear or go faster to change the rev range. any one else face this?

 

Not sure if this is linked or true but my last MOT place said that the manifold was glowing red when they were doing the emissions test!! They sat at 2000rpm to do this part of the MOT which makes me wonder if it's linked to the above, maybe the ECU is incorrectly setting the timing?

 

As a reminder, im 3.2 24v with BDB engine and ecu. FPR set to 4bar iirc.

[Fanjita 1]

Slowing down or just at that rev Sam? Mine is at 2k when slowing down it starts to hiccup

[swiftkid 1]

Has anyone used the R32 oil temp sensor in the bottom of the sump for the oil temp so I can then use the 2 holes in the oil filter housing for the oil pressure sensors instead of using a Tee piece?

[borachris 0]

Has anyone used the R32 oil temp sensor in the bottom of the sump for the oil temp so I can then use the 2 holes in the oil filter housing for the oil pressure sensors instead of using a Tee piece?

 

I thought about doing that but I think i'm just going to get one of these instead

 

http://m.ebay.co.uk/itm/280569365939?nav=SEARCH

 

Not sure if that's the correct size, haven't checked yet!

[Sean_Jaymo 0]

The stock dials don't understand the sensor in the sump and I don't know if it's actually a level sensor or a oil quality sensor or both?

Edited May 22, 2014 by Sean_Jaymo

[KipVR 1]

It was my understanding that it is a condition sensor, still that would be great to have! Surely it has a 1/0 output or 12v /0v ? Suppose that could be tested!

[Sean_Jaymo 0]

Maybe it could be hooked up to a spare light slot in the dash?

 

Whilst I'm on that subject, a engine management light would be nice!

[Dox 23]

I think you'll find the sump mounted sensor is oil level, most vag engines have them, it illuminates the orange light on the OE dash

[Kevin Bacon 5]

Sean is correct, it's both a level sensor and a condition sensor for the variable servicing. You'd have to figure out which of the 4 pins is the level output and what kind of signal it is. R32s never had oil temp, well, the MK5 has it but it's in a hidden Menu on the MFA.

 

As for the engine management light, US MK3 Golf VR6s (and SLCs I believe) had a separate "MIL" light on the dash like an ABS light. You should be able to use one of those to hook into the ECU's K-Line.

[quicky1980 0]

Slowing down or just at that rev Sam? Mine is at 2k when slowing down it starts to hiccup

 

Pretty much up or down. If I sit at ~2000rpm its pretty noticeable as i can sometimes make the car hop around. Only really noticed it recently, but that could be as I was being a little less "enthusiastic" with the drive

[swiftkid 1]

The sensor is oil level and oil temp. According to wiring diagrams you have pin 1 as ignition live, pin 2 as earth and pin 3 as your feed to the display unit (clocks). Seems a bit can-busy to me, I can understand wiring diagrams to a certain extent but I'm no auto-electrician so not sure if its possible to do anything with it?

[Kevin Bacon 5]

Pretty much up or down. If I sit at ~2000rpm its pretty noticeable as i can sometimes make the car hop around. Only really noticed it recently, but that could be as I was being a little less "enthusiastic" with the drive

 

Your two's are SWICT conversions aren't they? Never had that with my BDB conversion. Stealth did the mapping & wiring for that.

[Fanjita 1]

Yeah mines swict wiring, although it's already given me problems with certain things being wrong....

 

Since then Mark's said he won't send looms out, only fit them with the vehicle on site...

[Fanjita 1]

Think I'll be asking Vince nicely to plug it in and give it a thorough check

[borachris 0]

Your two's are SWICT conversions aren't they? Never had that with my BDB conversion. Stealth did the mapping & wiring for that.

 

Great, something else for me to look forward to!

 

Yeah mines swict wiring, although it's already given me problems with certain things being wrong....

 

Since then Mark's said he won't send looms out, only fit them with the vehicle on site...

 

I wish he had decided that before he agreed to do mine, would have saved me months of hassle and a few hundred quid, **** poor customer service!